Pete Ashby

I think sometimes people are not aware that that the Tank Museum library hold a large collection of soft skin factory and type acceptance photos in the archive always worth a look before trolling of to the ILWM. Pete

Yes that's the tanker Tony, hopefully I should have room in the workshop next year to start on the one I've got in storage unfortunately the Canadian tank is long gone but I have a British tank to fit instead Pete

Jason, the Chilwell lists do not give frame numbers linked to contract data for Canadian contracts, only number blocks are listed, however using John Farley's 'The Standard War Time jeep vol 2' it would appear that the contract you quote above would be for 1000 units in July 42 going to an ongoing Canadian contract. The production for July was MB frame numbers MB155101 to MB156497 =1396 units. The other 394 units going to an ongoing British contract SM2428 serials M4923602 to M4923996 =394 units (notice there is a discrepancy of 2 units here). Farley lists two known Canadian serial numbers from this July batch namely CM4231488 and CM4231785. The Chilwell list only gives the full allocation of 42##### number 4200000 to 4299999 this will cover all types of trucks so not much help to you I'm afraid. However if August 42 is looked at then contract 505 was still ongoing and two serials from that group of 700 units supplied are CM4232453 and CM4242123. Therefore it would be reasonable that your MB would be around the CM423#### range Pete

Over 20 years ago 900x16 run flats were on offer at £200+Vat each, to be fair they were new with the molding nibs but in those days it was nearly double the going rate. I couldn't begin to think how many were in the shed but they were on racks floor to ceiling round all four walls and three isles in the middle, there was little interest in selling to the MV world as apparently JCB 4x4 operators were the main source of revenue. Pete

I found this picture recently when I was faced with the same question as you Robert and I left the I terminal blank and it worked fine. Pete

Is this any help Robert ? Regards Pete

From this point on everything is a positive step forward in any restoration project. For me this is the most enjoyable part the grunt work is done and it's time to start adding the detail, every days work now has a visible positive return. Looking good :thumbsup: Pete

Good to see the Old Chap hasn't lost his touch Regards to you both Pete

Happy New Year to you to Chris, yes offer still stands, I'll have a look through my transmission spares in the next couple of days and PM you. regards Pete

Well good luck to the seller, but I am always left wondering who bids up to these inflated prices when a quick flick through the internet would set the bench mark for the vehicle.....sense money than more..... re-arrange as appropriate :-) Pete

If you can't locate one in Canada let me know I can probably supply you with a good used example. Pete

Nice work on the door frame keep the photos coming :thumbsup: Pete

I'm not sure it had a trade name Bob, but the galvanized sheet was either 18 or 22 gauge depending on application. The nearest you can get to it today is Zintec I have used it for a couple of jobs successfully, I would suggest that an etch primer is used before painting as I had an issue with paint bonding on one job. Pete

For a 6 volt system you need '0' or better still '00' gauge battery to earth and battery to starter cable the cable and fittings are available via the web from several vintage vehicle electrical suppliers sold by the meter make them up with soldered fittings and star washers where appropriate. A 12 volt conversion will produce a higher cranking speed however with regard to the lighting issue modern 6 volt Halogen or LED bulbs are more than adequate......... at the end of the day the choice is yours. The only comment I would make is to repeat the advice that has already been given namely 12 volts will not improve bad earths, bad wiring or tired electrical and/or mechanical components. Pete

What is the wheel rim for ? the WW2 US market is well catered for Pete

I wasn't sure if it was any brighter either when I set up a test for a project that's on the back burner, however on the plus side the current draw and heat generation were significantly less I'll be interested to know how you get on with them over an extended period. Thanks Pete

Some how I've missed this restoration thread until this morning, excellent work I know very well whats it like to commit to a long term restoration of a large vehicle. Your on the home run now, every bit you do will make a significant advance. Keep up the good work looking forward to seeing more photos Pete

Interesting Steve, I've been toying with the idea of replacing side lights and brake lights with LED's on a 6 volt system. It's hard to tell from your photo do you think the light intensity has increased ? Pete

Deadline, I'm sorry I don't know your real name, I have no wish to get into an argument with you I think there may be an issue with English vs American terminology. You are at liberty to put what ever lubricants you wish in your vehicles and I wish you well with that :-). Regards......... or as as I believe you chaps over there say........ ' Have a Nice Day' Pete

Jean I think it's more than likely your C30 was an LAA tractor the small hatch in the back of the cab behind the driver may indicate this. This feature was found on 8 cwt's that were FFW, 30cwt and later 60cwt LAA's and possibly on ambulance bodied trucks. The purpose was to enable voice communication between personal in the rear and the driver in the front via a canvas tunnel between the rear body and the cab. Pete

Jean from the build tag in your photos the truck is as Neils suggests a C30. From left to right the numbers mean the following 1= year of manufacture 8= CMP military pattern design 4= number of wheels 4= number of wheels supplied with power 1= code for C30cwt 0= spare space the next 4 numbers= the number of trucks of this type in your case 30cwt CMP design built So your truck appears to be a late 11 cab C30 produced in the first two months of 1941 just before 12 cab production came on line. I am guessing that the windscreen is fixed (not opening) the seat backs are non folding and the the wooden blocks that the seats sit on are about 2.5 to 3 cm deep and the angle iron behind the seats (where the cab roof and the cab back meet is not cut back to give extra room for the seats to move back on the runners if this is the case they all point to standard production 11 cab features. Nice truck, I'm sure we would all like to see more photos and to follow the restoration when you start in a blog on the restoration forum. regards Pete

In the UK the market for lubricants for vintage and classic vehicles is well catered for. If you do a search on this forum you can see that the topic has been covered in detail. Morris oils is a major supplier and has a wide range of products for the older vehicle. In summery play safe, use straight 90 in your gearbox and transfer case, EP90 in the axles and straight 30 with no additives in the engine. Pete

Very nice Tony, brings back memories,.......... Bill, sorry somewhat hijacked your thread to return to your question, Matchlesswdg3 offers good advice I would only add that you need to take a reasonable selection of running spares and tools, a good easy to use phrase book, maps, reference books and a plan in place so that you can get both you and the truck home if the worst happens. Pete

Is that the ford near St Lambert Tony?, without even trying we were finding loaded MP38 mags, stick grenades and jack boot soles in the mud and gravel in 1984. Pete

I'd second that Tony some of our most memorable days on tours were when we headed off on our own or in a small group of vehicles armed with some good reference books (not the standard guide books) and a large scale Michelin map of the area. Following the Goodwood and Epsom offensives particularly comes to mind and a very atmospheric day in the woods around Mount Ormel. Everyone should do the beaches at some time but there is much more to find inland as well. Pete