paulbrook

I am travelling north from Hereford to Cumbria with an empty 7.5 ton beavertail next week. Anyone need anything moving? Happy to go a bit off route to collect and deliver. I can carry about 3.7 tons and a max length of about 23ft and winch on and off but palletised loads or anything else would need you to sort out forks at each end. Please contact me here or at rustytrucks@mail2world.com.

Never mind the oil - a Ferret in S. California???!! You are a top man Tony!!

Or try coke and redex (thats coke the fizzy drink not any other sort..). Fill the bores to 7/8ths full with coke, then float redex on the top. The coke eats down through the muck gunge and rust followed by the redex which coats and preserves everything...

This mack chassis was done with fertan then primed - not a peep of rust dispite it sitting outside for a couple of years before getting it under cover. The best bit is you can apply it with a garden spray and then wash the excess off with a garden hose. Dont get too much on your skin though unless you have a few 101 Dalmation parties to go to over the coming weeks.

I might have a load of that out of the Antar I am doing....

Or put the sides on your roof rack and fetch them up here.....

As some might say - what a bummer. You can extend the life of things considerably by killing the rust with Vactan or Fertan (the former is probably better for this sort of job) and then living with it - maybe patching where you can. One of the problems I have found is that you weld a patch in, the heat upsets all the surrounding paint (which then goes rusty) or the back of the bit you are putting in is partly hidden and you cant protect it against rust. Alternatively you could cut away the bottom 6 inches of each box upright, weld repair sections in behind, etch prime and apply decent primer and paint, then (having cleaned and sorted the inner bits of them) weld the boxes back in (if you use a 1.5mm plasma disc - the sort used for cutting stainless steel - you will be able to butt weld the same metal back where it came from). Use a decent zirconium flap disc to knock back the weld bead and paint with you favorite concoction! Done right and you will be hard pressed to spot it was ever done. I love this truck and I like the video too!!!

I am still pretty sure that for all the stuff destined for the military at least it was black (but might have had a black trace in it....)

Try Vehicle Wiring Products (www.vehicleproducts.co.uk or 0115 9305454). the reference is FFRS 12,20 or 30 (diameter before shrinking)

Having done a CJ3b I think yours is a nice looking machine! You might like to consider putting sidelight equipped 7 inch units in the headlamp positions, then put clear lenses on the old sidelights but with orange bulbs in and wire these to the indicators. The back is a little trickier, but a pair of small LED indicators can be mounted discretely on the back somewhere (just under the bumper bar would be ideal.

Oh and braided cover. You can get an excellent heat shrink braided cover these days - if you need the contact let me know and Ill look it up

If I remember correctly all morris cables were braided black, and I dont even think they had id tags of any description on...

Yup............ Heres an example (this one is for a commer)

I am sure I can. Do you have a pattern?

Windscreens eh? They can be done and I know just the man......Me! Feel free to give me a shout (although best if you dont need them tomorrow because I have a bit of a waiting list...) I also do an excellent line in Bedford (or any other big petrol actually) tune ups.

Steve Any chance of sending me some higher resolution images? rustytrucks@mail2world.com is the address. Also can they be used in an article in one of the historic commercial magazines? Cheers Paul.

I love the "keep cool do not overheat" plea on the label. Fat chance of overheating wearing that stuff unless you were somewhere very hot indeed.

My local vintage bus company is using recycled bio fuel. But isnt the bigger looming issue the sulphur one? I was in my local agricultural engineers yesterday and I noticed (but didn't read fully) some advertising for an additive to make up for the changes (and ensure warranty claims would still be met!!!) but as I was doing something else I didn't take a lot of notice. So I think experience suggests that keeping an eye on fuel is important. I read somewhere else that increased ethanol in petrol is causing concern to users of that type of fuel due to misfiring, vaporisation and the fact that the fuel goes "off" quickly (ie much less than the old standard of 90 days). Thats just what my Dodge needs - another excuse to die at the traffic lights. The push is to add more etahnol, justified by the official government report and advice that claims "there will be no carburetted engines in use after 2013" Whoever wrote that clearly failed to look in my shed......... That said no point in being paranoid. We all predicted that unleaded was going to be the end of the world and here we all are, keener and dafter than ever! I say give the veggie stuff a go, they are oil engines after all and anyway I love the smell of a fry up. Report back your experiences on here and lets do what the old vehicle fraternity do best - adapt and overcome.

Ahh the ones with the self-destructing pockets. Not a great era for clothing quality that one.

Actually come to think of it I have a little white Austin Healey parked next to the Antar - a bit like my photo above from 1977!

Dont even say that. I was a bit tempted by a knocker last week......I persuaded myself that the CALM would be handy for lifting lumps off the Antar. Luckily I gave it a miss...

In tank transporting it was known as "wearing a bridge"...........

Meanwhile in the mountains of kosovo....

Yes please - could you send me a pm with details? Many thanks

And yes before any spotters point it out, that is a 10 ton GS not a gun tractor.....