42 chevy

I hope all is well with you guys, I need my "weekly fix" on your project. Any updates? John Gott

I have finally completed the crankcase breather decal(DONALDSON), so I can now offer a complete decal set for the Hercules engine, as found in the Diamond T, Autocar and other big trucks from WWII. I have previously offered the the air cleaner (UNITED)and oil filter decals (FRAM) oil filter $19.00 USD per set, you will need 2 sets aircleaner $6.00 USD crankcase breather $6.00 USD A complete set is $50.00, which includes 2 oil filter sets, 1 aircleaner and 1 crankcase decal. Shipping is extra. PM if interested. picture attached John Gott

:shocked:I prefer my boom to be straight!!!!!!!!!!!!!! John Gott

The silencer as you described is the correct one. Welcome to the Diamond T club, the best looking trucks of WW II, next to series 2 Ward Lafrance. John Gott

Adrian; glad you are back on track. I talked to Jim Clarke recently and he told me that your project had slowed down due to your move. Looking good, keep the pictures coming. John Gott

The rest of the pictures John Gott

Updated progress report. The right front spring bushings have been removed, an easier job than I thought it was going to be. Bodie Cummins (BC products, a producer of Diamond T rubber products) made up some new bushings for me. The pictures show the new bushings and a comparision to an orginal one that was removed. The front fender supports have been fitted and a nice detail touch, the "SERVICE" tag was fitted to the right front glad hand. :-) New rubber air lines have been installed. I now will be moving over to left side of the truck.

The engine and transmission are "done". The previous owner had a valve job done at Mil Spec in NJ. I installed new seals and gaskets on the engine. The fuel pump was rebuilt along with the air compressor. The transmission was rebuilt in 1966, and it shifts fine, however, I have a lead on a NOS tranny and transfer case. I am doing all the work myself with some help from a friend for the heavy stuff (ie brake drums). Timeframe? maybe 1 year, I have been working on the truck for 2 years as time permits. John Gott

I have made some graet progress latley, but I have been remiss in posting. So here we go. The right rear axles have been completed in their overhaul. New oil seals fitted in the housings, new felts installed, rebuilt brake chambers installed, nos brake blocks installed, new rubber brake hoses installed, rebuilt relay valve installed. nos upper torque arms installed and a final coat of paint. The right front axle has been complety overhauled. New oil seal and felts installed, nos brake shoes fitted and a final coat of paint.

Over on the other side of the pond, I am paying $2.75 p/gallon, so I should not complain . If my math is right. 1.15 p/litre times 3.78 (1 US gallon) equals 4.34. Current exchange rate is $1.498 to one pound . $6.50 per gallon, now that would shut the US economy down. Last year the exchange rate was close 1.95 to the pound $8.46 p/gallon) John Gott

Tony; When I was cleaning up the exterior of the rear axles, I noticed some differences between the 2 axles. First, there was a TIMKEN cast into the front axle and not in the rear, however, some cast in numbers were the same on both axles, there was some other subtle differances in how the gear ratio was stamped into the top of the readuction units. I originally thought the rear axle was a replacement axle, but, I now believe it is an orginal that was made under contrract, as the axle plate states. You would never see these numbers unless you crawled under the truck. John

Tony; This is Robert's latest work. These are the data plates that go on the rear axles. The originals are there for comparision. Also, I included my orginal air buzzer plate, which has a black background. John

Tony; thanks for posting the pictures. Very nice work indeed. I need to send Robert my orginal shift pattern patern plate for my Chevy dump. I had a set made years ago, but the that dump shift plate was not available. John

Tony; your welcome. Could you post some pictures of them? John

thanks for the info, so I guess that means my truck was in Norway after the war. john gott

Mike; in reference to your preivous post, are there any relaibilty issues with the 22 R engine. I am in agreement about power and economy. My experience in driving a series 5 was about 32-35 mph flat out and 5 mph going up some hills in 2nd gear If you tried down shifting from 4 th down to 2nd once on the hill, you lost all your momentum. John Gott

Mike; The repowering job is looking spot on. John Gott

I wil give Kevin Knronlund a call (U.S.) his brother inlaw is involved with Army Cars Holand. Also,Tootallmike was checking for as well. Thanks

Centi; I do not need axles. I do have an NOS axle unit(drum to drum) that I will be installing. I am looikng for torque rods. John Gott

just playing around with a differant format to load up pctures.

It has been awhile since I posted. Well, since December 18 of last year, we have had 3 major snow storms, with 2 of them being blizzrds. So, the snow has almost melted away, so I now can go back to playing. I have finally gotten teh torque rods off the rigth rear. As you can see in the pictures, it took a little heat with the torch to remove teh pins out of teh upper rods. I have NOS upper rods. The lowers cleaned up nicely, so I just migth reuse them. The first 4 pictures are of the torque rods and attachment poits and the last 2 of are the blizzard. I am stil getting used to this "new" version of attaching pictures. john gott

What increase in fuel mileage are looking at with the diesel converesion. I guess the petrol was 2-3 mpg. John Gott

Mike; Thanks for reposting the pictures and adding a few more. I do not have replacement torque rods, but if you have a source I would very interested. I am in the middle of repalcing the torque rods on my Diamond T. I was lucky to find NOS upper rods. That was not a fun job getting the pins out, but once we put the torch on them, life got a lot easier. The bottom rods came out quite easily. I do not why, but the bottom rods were in better shape than the top ones. The bottom rods are no where to be found here in the US, however, my local spring shop should be able to weld new ends on tehm, I will be taking the rods to them this week. I will be posting pictures in my resto blog for my 969A. again, thanks Mike John Gott

Tootallmike, I have sent you an e mail, but others, please feel free to chime in on any pointers on the rear axle removal procedure. I have read and reread the TM on this procedure. I have an NOS complete rear axle for the truck. I have checked previos posts, but thee pictures that were attached to those post(s) are no longer viewable. thanks in advance John Gott

Looks like there is limited space under the bonnet for accessing the engine:laugh: