42 chevy

I am using a needle scaler and wire brush on a grinder to clean up the axle housings. I used emory paper to clean up the sealing area on the axle half shafts. In regards to the seals, they do a good job of keeping the gear oil in there (when they are not worn) as the hubs are lubricated by axle grease. If this job was ever done in the field, you would have to remove the axle from the truck, as there is not enough room to remove the reduction units when the bed is still on the truck. If you have ever worked on a banjo axle GMC, the seal arrangement on the outer rear bearing nut seems like an after thought. When I am done with the rear axles , I will replace the front axle seals, which involves unbolting the outer part of the axle housing. Oh Joy. John Gott

I now have the front part of the frame painted and the shocks reinstalled. pictures will follow shortly

I have posted pictures of the new seals in the rear axle. I ended up using an air chisel to get the old ones out. The picture tells the story about that adventure. So I first removed the reduction unit, then cleaned out the housing, removed the seals, cleaned up the axle shafts where the seal rides on it. Order speedi repair sleaves for the yokes so the seals have a smooth surface to seal on. Installed NOS seals where the yoke goes in. Added gear oil and put teh reduction unit back in. So one down and one more to go.

I got the seals out using an air chisel. I will post pictures under my restoration guide tomorrow. John Gott

I have having a hard time getting the axle seals out of the rear axle on my 969. Getting the reduction units out was easy compared to this task. I am out of ideas. Any guidence would be appreciated thanks John Gott

All; That generation of air brakes lacked "pedal feel" like you are used to on a hydralic system. Todays air brake valve/pedal has "feel". If you read the TM, it states "apply the brakes gradually, a fast application could catch the operator off guard" "Use the engine braking to its fullest, releasing the clutch just before you stop so as not to stall the engine" Before I got my Diamond T, I drove a Ward LaFrance, and sayed the same thing, "these brakes have no feel", luckily I was going about 5 mph, I pushed the pedal to the floor, locked all the wheels and sent my passsenger lurching forward. I sayed, "brake check, they seem to work fine" Your brakes are working as designed. Hope this helps John Gott

I got the engine out yesterday, not a fun job, the engine weighs 1100 lbs, and the transmission weighs around 450 lbs. I took the transmission out first then the engine. After the engine came out, the winch came out next. That was easy compared to the engine removal. Now I have access to the frame to clean and repaint

You gentleman do superb work and should be commended for taking on projects that others would not even give a second thought to restoring. An inspiration to us all. Rock on John Gott

I picked up the radiator from the local shop I use, Cecil Phillip, the owner told me that half of the core was clogged, and he did not feel comfortable rodding it out and putting back togather. He had to use a lot of heat to get the bolts to come out, over 2/3 of the bolts broke off and alot of solder loosened up, so in with a new core., $1188.00 later:coffee:, I have a "new" radiator. Funny thing is the truck did not over heat, but I trust his judgement and he has worked miracles on projects I have brought to him in the past. The drage link was rebuilt with 2 NOS kits. Steering box was cleaned up and I will put PENRITE steering box lube back in. Installed NOS fan belts and got the the fan back on. I rebuilt the fan hub with an overhaul kit and put new bearings in. The pictures show the old bearings. Last but not least, I have my "project and I had to get the MRS her toy. A 1965 Mustang GT convertible.

Andrian; Thanks for the follow up on the roof linings. As long as I get something done, however small it is, it is getting me closer to the end. John

I forgot to mention that I also removed the water distribution panel on the left side of the engine and flushed the block out, not to bad but I am glad I did it. The radiator is currently at the shop having a new core fitted. I am currently rebuilding the fan hub assembly and steering drag link. John

It may not look like much has been down, but alot of "small" jobs have been done. -The engine timing gear cover was removed and new seals were fitted to the crankshaft pulley and to the aux pulley. -The oil pan was removed, sludge was removed from the bottom of the pan and the pan was reinstalled. -The engine was cleaned and repainted -the air compressor was rebuilt and installed. Next the engine and transmission will be removed and the inside of the frame will be cleaned and painted. I am using TM-9 ordanance paint and one shot you will see the outside right front frame rail painted. This paint is far superior to any aothe OD paint I have used previously.

sounds great, thanks

Adrian; I will need a roof liner. Do you have a lead on one? John

I have had a very busy summer at work, but I am starting to make progress again. The oil pan and front timing cover were removed for the purpose of installing new seals and gaskets. The air compressor was taken apart and R&R. I will be removing the engine out of the chassis as it will make the job eaiser of painting the frame. The radiator is at the shop getting a pressure test. Adrian, your cab repairs look spot on. I need to give Jim Clarke a call. Pictures to follow soon

Btt..

I just got these in. They are correct for the M8/20 armored vehicle and the Diamond T trucks and any other "heavy" vehcile that had a UNITED oil bath air cleaner. Made in vinyl just like my oil filter decals I had reproduced. Price is $6.00 USD for the air cleaner decal plus shipping or $25.00 USD for the air cleaner nad oil filter decal set plus shipping.

Norman; Is that the final color "green" you are using or is it an undercoat? John

This howthe decals look once installed ont he filter canisters John Gott

Shipping out on Monday the 18th. John Gott

Don't know about the rim, but I would be careful about using those tires. I see signs of weather checking/ dryrot on the sidewalls. John Gott

Norman; Putting all those bolts in those the brake diaphrams brings back memories. The frame looks GREAT:) Japp Rietveld is bringing me some parts to the Aberdeen show next, so I can put some things back togather. John

Norman; Hope all is going well, I have not seen you post anthing since March. I am still working on my "million" small jobs. My repro oil filter decals I had made up arrived. I am rebuilding the air compressor currently. The radiator got sent out for an overall check. That thing must weigh 300 pounds!!!!!!!!!!!!! John

Goran; They come as a set (all 3 decals). $19.00 USD. I will let you know shipping costs. I prefer to to send them in a rigid envelope to lessen the chances of them being damaged in shipment. John

Forgot to mention, these are vinyl, not water transfer decals. John Gott