fv1609

Can anyone give me an idea of the value of these badges please?

Alec hope this helps. I already had it on photobucket from posting it on some old thread somewhere.

Last summer I spent a couple of hours in the National Army Museum whilst waiting for a funeral next door in the Chelsea Hospital. There were numerous displays of glorious conflicts but it seemed extraordinary that in the year that was 40 years since the start of Op Banner that I could find no reference to this at all. But when you consider that the two soldiers killed in NI last year were not afforded the Lyneham treatment but were just shipped back as cargo, it doesn't surprise me.

But some of them have nice paint jobs though:undecided:

They've not been driven for some years & spannering will be needed I'm afraid & probably fabrication of lockers etc. So perhaps not a first project. There is this expression sometimes used that a Pig is an "entry level" vehicle which sounds rather patronising suggesting perhaps only beginers should have one. I think I once counted that there are over 90 lubrication points. When you look under a lot Humbers at shows quite a large number have not received much servcing in recent times & some have been incorrectly attended to.

I imagine they would be in the £2k region, located in Berkshire area. Most wheeled military vehicles, even armoured ones, were based on modifications to a commercial chassis. The Humber FV1600 was not like that & was designed for military use from the outset. So many components have no direct commercial equivalent. When a MV goes out of service, there is a corresponding availability of spares. The trouble for Humber enthusisats is that these spares were repurchased or not released in order to maintain the Pigs used in NI from 1969 onwards. The upside is that some components were remanufactured to fufil this demand, so things like dynamos can still be found in crates. If a Ferret breaks down it is a major headache, if a Pig breaks down it is a set back. But at least you can sit in the back of it & make a cup of tea whilst you access the tools & spares that you have the room to carry around with you. PS Driving a Ferret, many would say could only safely be done with a crew of two. Driving a Pig can easily done by yourself & follows the normal layout of controls. Invariably people will say "I bet its a pig to drive, mate?". No it isn't, its fine to drive. Vision is a bit restricted but with the hatches open you have better vision than many commercial trucks & vans.

Engine B60 the same but has normal truck type flywheel gearbox & 4WD selection. Sorry no idea about young drivers etc but Mk 1 weighs 4.775kg unladen & 5.791kg laden (ie 1 ton payload!) Much cheaper than a Ferret to buy I know of two going cheap. Engine parts the same available at a price. But other parts not so easy unless can salvaged from a scrap vehicle.

I heard a story that there had been problems with the central locking operated by the key fob. On one occasion a key fob locked adjacent vehicles, jamming their locks. This required the flying in of a technician from the States to sort it out.

Saxon Patrol was the replacement for the Humber Pig, although it had a wider turning circle & poorer visibility. Where Tavern was meant to fit into the scheme of things, I really don't know.

I don't think that got a lot of use. I believe they had problems, like the daleks have, that it was not always easy to drive over the kerb. Oh and to go into 4WD, you have get out & lock the freewheeling hubs.

Dave it is extremely rare to find the Mk 1 generator, but in comparison the Mk 2 is relatively common as quite a large number were remanufactured for the Pigs in NI. Anyway bear in mind the Mk 1 is only 12A output & the Mk 2 is 25A By all means have a nose inside, but bear in mind the repair of this generator was not classed as Field or Unit Repair. It was a Base Repair & it requires nearly a dozen precision tools to be made up to service the gearbox assembly. So best of luck!

Dave the simplest test is to just press the two microswitches down then rev up above 2,000 rpm & see if it then charges. Best perhaps not to press the microswitches when there is current flowing as they are not rated particularly highly. Oh yes you learn a lot more when things don't work than if everything runs along nicely all the time. Do make sure the bolts holding the main fuse are tight. Also that the bolts holding the spare fuses in the lid are secure. I had one unthread itself with time & it fell onto the main fuse bolt where it shorted out to the case, was a bit of a mess.

About 15 years ago I got a Q plated Pig re-registered on a historic number. That was Bournmouth & at the time the manager was a classic vehicle enthusiast. So whether it was to do when, where or attitude I don't know.

Dave ok fair enough. At engine revs below 2,000 rpm the generator is geared up to revolve 3 times faster than at engine revs above 2,000rpm. So if your microswitches are currently set so it has a max charge of only 5A for fording. (It is limited because in fording as the two vent caps are screwed on to keep water out, it would overheat above 5A charging). When you rev you reduce the gen revs by a third so it will not charge. There is no electrical mechanism in the generator itself that would cause this phenominum to cut at high revs. There must be a fault in the gen panel top cap. This is why I asked if the two cap covers are stowed correctly in the main round cover which must be fully screwed in. They are kept there for storage but their presence pushes down on the microswitches allowing full charge & it looks to me as if they are not doing this.

Dave, I hope you had been topping up the gearbox oil if not run for a few weeks! I would avoid tangling with a gearbox rebuild, I have the EMMER & it does not look an easy task. First thing to check on the connector to the generator is that you get 24v to the field winding on pins C (+) and B or E (-) & check the field winding for continuity. You've replaced the fuse wire, that is the fuse for the warning light. The main fuse is a strip that is bolted down with two large headed bolts. Is that ok? These bolts can loosen. When you're running this, you are putting the gen panel lid back on with the fording caps inside? This is important.

Many thanks Jack. I had just come off ebay having got a bit befuddled with all the permutations of devices & set ups. Then switched to the forum & there was your post, spooky!

PM sent

Yes. But Mike you should later reinstate the charge in the battery that was used to do the starting. In the 24v system the two 12v batteries are in series, your vehicle's charging system cannot preferentially give more charge to the more discharged battery. Even if you run the engine for a long time one battery will be undercharged. You then run into the problem that people can have where they tap off 12v to run a CD or radio etc. So best to charge each battery individually later.

There's a drawing of one on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ARMY-CATERING-CORPS-BELFAST-N-IRELAND-1972-ULSTER-RUC_W0QQitemZ380220902300QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Collectables_Militaria_LE?hash=item5886ee8b9c

Mark, yes that was my picture taken at RAF Lyneham. I've got some pics of yellow 90s & 110s from another RAF establishment in Wiltshire. If I can only find them!

Chris you just turn the grooved knob anti-clockwise. Should be able to do it by hand. It doesn't take many turns as it has a very coarse thread. You will see that the end of the wire has about 1/4 in removed from the insulatiuon. The wires themselves have been fed through a spit washer with a small hole made of brass & then splayed out uniformly so that it will make contact with the central brass bolthead in the coil assembly. Just mind you don't loose that washer. Sometimes people loose them & just stuff the wire in without it which is not a very reliable way to do it.

Sorry I've just corrected it, should read EMER WHEELED VEHICLES V 005 Installation Instruction No.1. Just trying to find it, not surfaced yet.

I think you will find that this is a booster coil from a Centurion. I was told by the EMI of a LAD in Palestine that they first fitted this arrangement to Jeeps. Ferrets of the Hong Kong Police were fitted with electrification. Before you could buy exMOD armour the first Ferrets in the UK were brought over from Hong Kong by Mike Hoffman. These Ferrets had electification fitted. It is generally assumed electrification was a mod carried out in NI. In the case of Rovers it certainly was as the intruction was issued as EMEWR WHEELED VEHICLES Q 025 Installation Instruction No.15 June 1972. The instruction for the electrification for Saracen, Salidin & Ferret was in EMER WHEELED VEHICLES V 005 Installation Instruction No.1 but was somewhat earlier in October 1968. Interestingly this predates supporting the civil power by some 9 months.

I'm afraid that is not a complete NSN, there is a 4-digit group missing at the end. I tried adding 6589 to it, but whatever that was, it comes up as obsolete. Is there no DMC (Domestic Management Code) that precedes the NSN? This would identify the make of vehicle it was intended for.

Matt, I've seen Daimlers, Whites, Mk 1 Pigs etc in Ruddington catalogues. But later it was seemed essentially for B, C, E, P, R, Z type vehicles. But A vehicles seemed to go through Ludgershall. I don't know how that worked, I suspect they were advertised to be sold by tender as I have known of people go to pick out a couple of Ferrets they fancied & buy them direct. I remember 20 years ago Woods in Crediton bought a record number of 432s & Mk2 Pigs by tender. But I have never heard of catalogues from there along the lines of Ruddington publications. Although in later years the sales catalogues from places like Aston Down did not even give the ERM.