fv1609

Malcom interesting stuff indeed. Can you post a higher resolution image I can't read the text. But my reaction is to suspect the capacitor. Is the engine running nicely? Is there any carboning on the plugs? Is this happening from cold or only after running a while?

Yes yours looks better. Trouble is I bought it a couple of years ago on e bay to have it in readiness. I had to wait a couple weeks so I think it was made to order. Looked again but not currently being advertised.

Got here at 1000 everyewhere drying out well. Sun beating down having lardy cake and lager in the back of the Pig. For those who take a special interest in these matters I can report a major upgrade in the urinals. They all seem to be brand new long wooden sheds with lighting and wood chips on the floor. It used to be quite hazardous visiting these facilities in total darkness. O2 3g non existent but going through EE 3g is fine.

OTAN is what the French call NATO ! Not aware of a colour called NATO Khaki so is it just NATO Green?

Phew that is a relief :laugh:

Not sure that I really understand Richard. The practical point for me was that with such a short parallel grip deep in the jaw it was not sufficient to grasp the tappet as it was done up very tightly. The only proper grip that could achieve firm anchorage was a normal 9/16 AF spanner. For those trying to follow this thread, here is the repro tool & the way it should be used in the RR handbook. Although now looking at the diagram have I been putting it in the wrong way round? But then I cant see how the tappet can be gripped steady.

Thank you Richard, I just thought I would take the opportunity to tart things up a bit although my main concern was to get it back together & run-in to get me to GDSF. I didn't fancy the whole week in the Shorland although that gets more interest & in fact 2-3 years ago was on show adverts in magazines. I thought that tool would be super & at first I thought it was brilliant but it is only the deep notches that grip at 9/16. I can't see why that width can't continue across the whole of the jaws. In the end I had to use the three spanners, feeler gauge & hold the torch. I no longer have a garage light & a head torch hits the exhaust down pipe. Took nearly an hour & a lot of swearing. This tool I bought a couple of years ago is a copy of the RR tool & I see in the manual it looks much the same. So perhaps I've missed the point somewhere?

Yes always something for everyone & a bit of mud shouldn't put us off after all most of our vehicles can drive with more than one axle. I shall be bringing the dog cage I bought last year. Not to capture any dogs that pea on my tyres but unfolded it makes a good standing area behind the Pig so I don't sink into the mud so much.

The nice thing Nigel is that it cured a long standing squeak from the driver's foot well area. I have had the floor up & the tin sheets surrounding it to no effect. So I think it was something to do with the struts that support the air filter. It would only happen when I was going along & was rather difficult to pin down where its origin lay. But quiet so far!

Well this thread seems a bit quiet. Took the Pig out for a test run 3 weeks ago, all fine so fill up with fuel. On leaving filing station engine sounds awful & lost power. Get home do compression test all cylinders 100 psi but #5 is 0 psi. Removing the head revealed the exhaust valve seat was mobile. So new seat cut, fitted & ground in then lapped with new valve poppet. Head back on again & all ancillaries. Ran for 2 hours cooled over night. Head re-torqued & tappets adjusted. Not very easy as most of my tools are now in a storage container two miles away & I had given away my garage crane. Head lifting & refitting greatly assisted by Darren (of 101 fame) & now I've got everything more or less back it was I hope. This was my chance to use my exhaust tappet locking plate that you can buy on e bay to represent special tool RE23944. Seemed a good idea but I found it of no use as it allowed the tappet to rotate, I think the jaws should be parallel rather than curved. I'll post a picture sometime to save anyone else wasting their money. Anyway test drive yesterday so ready for Great Dorset Steam Fair So a picture before it gets mucky again!

"The construction of a new permanent internal road system is a three-year project (subject to planning permission) involving the laying of over 5000 metres of new hard roads. Planning permission has already been granted for a sizeable amount of the new road system and over 3,000 metres will be installed and ready for the 2015 show." Well I'll find out on Tuesday.

Anyone from here going? http://www.gdsf.co.uk/index.php/attractions/vintage-classic-vehicles I see they should have laid 3km of internal roadway to ease problems in the unlikely event that it rains :cheesy:

Have we just had a glimpse into the future?

They are not available for public sale & just turn up from time to time at shows mixed in with other surplus manuals. Generally there isn't much in them that couldn't be found elsewhere. The summary format or précis is convenient for grasping essential facts though.

Simon perhaps CP is "Civilian Personnel" to distinguish the wearer from official personnel?

Doug can you take a picture of the regulator & with the cover off? It might be a comparable version of the civilian one & in that case there is a reasonable amount of fault-finding in the workshop manual I can post up.

Boris SEME is/was the School of Electrical & Mechanical Engineering at Bordon in Hampshire. Over the years they produced a super series of summaries of lecture notes for students that cut through the detail of the technical descriptions of equipment in EMERs. They presented brief but factual descriptions in an easy to follow & easy to remember format. This particular one covers certain aspects of electrical items in Land Rovers, Series 3, Defender & TUL/TUM (HS). Curiously that particular chart I posted appears on a TUL/TUM (HS) page although in my vehicle I have seen no Unipren wires nor does the circled U appear in any circuit diagrams for them. My Humber 1 Ton is exclusively wired with yellow Unipren.

Found in Land Rover précis notes by SEME

Unipren

Just perusing my latest acquisition of another copy of WO Code No.8457 which is a fairly common book. But what is the point of having so many identical publications? The point is that none of these are identical! Although originally published in 1949 these were still being amended up to 1965. Sometimes just a few lines of amendment were made, sometimes complete sections were issued as replacements or replacements of replacements or sometimes you get an original that has not been amended at all. Apart from changes to the main sections, there were a series of Appendices from A to K. Some of these were amended & sometimes displaced by an entirely different topic. To add to the confusion in 1951 all Appendices were re-designated as Annexes. Then new titles for Appendices were added to chapters of the main text with some of these Appendices acquiring their own Annexes. So a recipe for confusion & the likelihood that many editions of Staff Duties in the Field can be so different or even seem contradictory.

In 1913 the rejection rate for Army recruits per 1,000 was: Defective intelligence 1.42 Other diseases of the nervous system 0.63 Not likely to be an efficient soldier 2.49 Quite low figures but as you indicate the most vulnerable would have been locked up. I have the Army Medical Dept Reports for 1884, 1901 & 1913. These are very comprehensive but curiously the returns for the sick in South Africa for 1901 "cannot for the present be prepared" odd as the report was published in 1903.

What were their conclusions?

Not to be confused with the Army List, this 87th edition of the War Office List makes interesting reading. Not least of which is the fact that it was the last ever edition.

Yes. I would avoid getting a fancy coil just use the original. One member on here did buy one of these & asked me for some advice. It turned out that the coil had rather low resistance when he made contact there was meant to have been a special ballast resistor used with it. So it can all get unnecessarily expensive & complicated when it doesn't need to be. He does suggest opening the plug gap now you have more voltage. Do not do this to RSN13P as the electrode can break off & is not intended to be adjusted. You can adjust RSN12Y of course but I ran into unreliability problems when I did this.

Is this the one from Jolley with the machined aluminium base plate? If so there is coverage at this end of this : http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/IGNITIONMATTERS.pdf There is a ballast resistor (two actually) that are shorted out on start up to supply 24v to the coil. Thereafter the coil is supplied with 12v. I assume HEI COIL means High Energy Ignition Coil. I wouldn't bother just use the module as a direct replacement for the contact breaker. The module needs to be energised by 24v but it can switch 12v or 24v, in the same way that a 24v relay needs 24v but doesn't mind if switches lower voltages.