BRDM Driver Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Anyone got a 'how to' for replacing the final drive oil seals? (The seal between the hub and casing) Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 If it'd the internal Quill shaft seals, you either have to remove the gearbox or final drive to get the shaft out. The seal replacement is straightforward. Personally I'd probably remove the final drive as while a heavy job, means you don't have to drain coolant, bleed steering and strip half the vehicle. If it's the outer drive hub seal, break track, remove sprockets and strip as per an epicyclic reduction hub (like a normal hub but with gears). I've done both, and got a final drive in and out using only a couple of pry bars and walking the final drive carefully down bits of wood. Not too difficult jobs either way, just heavy bits of kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRDM Driver Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share Posted August 14, 2017 Pretty sure its the outer seal, there's oil on outside casing and on the tracks, so it's coming from the hub to casing seal. Anyone know were to get the seals? Parts list shows 3 seals FV814177 fibre ring seal, FV814176 seating ring seal and FV758199/4 torodial sealing ring. Banisters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Try Bannisters but I think it may also be a commercially available one. I know the Quill shaft seal is special as I had a few sets made up some years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 (edited) The Xmod did have quill shaft seals, as I bought a pair! but check against The Alvis Part number not the FV/NSN number. There is also a tool to remove the final drive, a hinged bar which screws into the large bolt hole above the final drive, supported at the opposite end by a jack, a chain is slung over the bar and fixed to the two oil drain hole. guide pins are screwed into the hull through the final drive and the drive is slid along the bar when unbolted. Diana Try Bannisters but I think it may also be a commercially available one. I know the Quill shaft seal is special as I had a few sets made up some years ago. Edited August 14, 2017 by Diana and Jackie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianevans Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Anyone got a 'how to' for replacing the final drive oil seals? (The seal between the hub and casing) Cheers! Hi . i found that a pallet trolley and two long bits of threaded rod gets final drives off and on quite simply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRDM Driver Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share Posted August 14, 2017 Hi . i found that a pallet trolley and two long bits of threaded rod gets final drives off and on quite simply. But I don't need to take the final drive casing off to change the hub sea, do I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 But I don't need to take the final drive casing off to change the hub sea, do I? Correct. It can be quite a job to get the hub drive flange off, so be prepared for a fight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 But I don't need to take the final drive casing off to change the hub sea, do I? Correct. It can be quite a job to get the hub drive flange off, so be prepared for a fight. Still need to break tracks and get the sprockets off though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 Best way to get final drive off in the field is put a small bottle jack or porta-power ram on top of the final drive under the side skirt and push down gently and "crack" the final drive off the hull so it falls on your foot! Handy hint , check the snugness of the roll pins that hold the brake discs on , I think from memory there are about 6. These can often be cracked and have worked the holes loose, quite often you cannot see this unless you strip the final drive unit off and it is sitting on the floor for inspection, Cheers Andrew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRDM Driver Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 Correct. It can be quite a job to get the hub drive flange off, so be prepared for a fight. Still need to break tracks and get the sprockets off though. The flange is held on with bolts and roll pins, right? I have the mother of all bearing pullers, so I am sure I will be able to rig something up, if it doesn't want to play ball. Can anyone tell me what the seals actually are? One may be just a large o-ring, which is easy to source, but not sure about the fibre seal (presumably a dust seal)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 Why have you not got the spare parts manual (common items)? That would answer a lot of your questions. Diana The flange is held on with bolts and roll pins, right? I have the mother of all bearing pullers, so I am sure I will be able to rig something up, if it doesn't want to play ball. Can anyone tell me what the seals actually are? One may be just a large o-ring, which is easy to source, but not sure about the fibre seal (presumably a dust seal)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRDM Driver Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 Why have you not got the spare parts manual (common items)? That would answer a lot of your questions. Diana Yes I have the parts lists but the MOD and Nato numbers are not showing up much info. I was wondering if these are available as commercial parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) Item 24 shows the seal, its a standard synthetic rubber seal along with its dimensions - so you should be able to get one at a seal supplier or online. Diana Yes I have the parts lists but the MOD and Nato numbers are not showing up much info. I was wondering if these are available as commercial parts. Edited August 16, 2017 by Diana and Jackie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRDM Driver Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 Item 24 shows the seal, its a standard synthetic rubber seal along with its dimensions - so you should be able to get one at a seal supplier or online. Diana So it's a nitrile o-ring then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?54666-CVRT-Final-Drive-Seal So it's a nitrile o-ring then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 The inner hub seal is nothing special, although I think I went for a "high Temperature" one from a local bearing and seal supplier, it may have been a "double lip" one as well, Cheers Andrew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Dozer Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Hello my tracked Friends :cool2: I have the same problems, oil is leaking out of both final drives on my Spartan. I've tried to use thicker oil, but also this was not preventing the oil to drip out on the tracks. Please let me know how what kind of seals you use and how you are processing. This will be a winter job over here in Switzerland for me :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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