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How do I get rid of petrol gunge?


fv1609

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I have taken the fuel tank off a vehicle that has been laid up for 12 years. The base of the tank has a layer of gunge, tar of some sort I suppose, how can I get rid of it?

 

I can scrape at it with a stick & eventually it reveals the metal underneath is fine. As this is so tenacious do I actually have to remove it? Or will it either tend to dislodge in particles as I drive around or will it dissolve with new fuel & gum up the carb?

 

Clearly I have to do something with the filler tube & the filter at the end as it won't let fuel through. Any ideas?

 

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I've just looked in my 110 IPC & various fuel tanks described, but one seems to match up to Strainer Element,Sediment PRC2475.

 

Thanks for that there is a dealer who has a MOD Rover service contract about 5 miles away. Let's hope he's not closed for Christmas yet!

 

As you're probably aware Clive thats a standard LR part no, I should think Craddock will have them in stock.

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As you're probably aware Clive thats a standard LR part no, I should think Craddock will have them in stock.

 

Yes I need to order some brakes hoses from him as well. They look quite cheap. This morning a clutch hose was £11 something + VAT, but without it I can't get the clutch slave replaced & sorted. His S2 wheel cylinders seem cheap, I think I probably have a least a set in stock. I will replace them all as I did them all 20 years ago, I don't want them sticking etc. With the weight of the Shorland brakes are a priority.

 

But it is amazing to look at these lists on dealer's sites & see the stocks of all sorts of things, such a change from Humbering & having to scratch around recycling & modify things!

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But it is amazing to look at these lists on dealer's sites & see the stocks of all sorts of things, such a change from Humbering & having to scratch around recycling & modify things!

 

 

I think they may have built a few more Land Rovers:-D plus the majority of parts were standard civi, also because so many old ones survive the repro market is very lucrative.

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Guest catweazle (Banned Member)

Morning Clive,be a bit carefull with the repro parts mate,a lot of it is utter rubbish,

Brake shoes ,very often you cant get the drum on,w/cylinders,leak very quickly and wreck the shoes you spent hours trying to fit.Hub seals,again leaking early on and wrecking the shoes.All this is from past experience of people bringing me patten parts

and asking me to fit them,i only use genuine but cheaper in the long run as you only do it once.Maybe if members have a trusted patten parts supply that experience has proved ok they could let you know.cw.

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Hello CW yes I know what you mean but he lists non authentic & what I assume is authentic still quite reasonable. But I know what you mean I once had trouble on a repro cylinder, the pipe thread had been bored too deep & the pipe could not be screwed in far enough to form a seal.

 

Depending on my spares situation I'm not sure whether to necessarily replace the cylinders for the sake of it if they are free. Hoses replace certainly.

 

Another problem I need to face up to is jumping out of 3rd or was it 2nd when braking going down hill. I've never had to tangle with a gearbox, could that be an external selector problem really?

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Guest catweazle (Banned Member)

Hi Clive its a common problem.The first thing to check is the nut on the end of the mainshaft which is in the transfer box.This is very often loose alowing the mainshaft to float up and down.2nd/3rd bronze bush broken again allowing excess end float,g/box out for that i am afraid,A bodge is to put some washers under the detent spring for 2nd/or 3rd gear selector.increasing the load on it,this sometimes works.cw.

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An article in Feb 2009 issue of MV Magazine about removing gas residue that had formed in a vehicle that had not been used in 40 yrs or so in 1918 ford 3 ton tank, that had not been run since 1962. they found using alcohol , time and patience was the only method that worked for them , they dont say what kind of alcohol they used I m thinking denatured ?

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Morning Clive,be a bit carefull with the repro parts mate,a lot of it is utter rubbish,

Brake shoes ,very often you cant get the drum on,w/cylinders,leak very quickly and wreck the shoes you spent hours trying to fit.Hub seals,again leaking early on and wrecking the shoes.All this is from past experience of people bringing me patten parts

and asking me to fit them,i only use genuine but cheaper in the long run as you only do it once.Maybe if members have a trusted patten parts supply that experience has proved ok they could let you know.cw.

 

 

I totally agree with you about pattern parts CW as you say a lot of it is crap but unfortunately too many people go the false economy route, we used to get some real nightmares to sort out because of it. I wasn't suggesting Clive used repro stuff I was merely commenting on the market.

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