land rover RWMIK+ batteries

[wolfman]

we have a 1999 RWMIK+, 24 volt naturally, that seems to have been supplied to us (from an MOD disposal contractor that shall remain nameless) with the wrong batteries in it (the starter batteries NOT the radio batteries) which seems to have caused the vehicle to have broken down, and possibly fried the alternator. 

Until it's recovered to us on Thursday I don't know any more, but I'm hoping the expertise here will be able to advise the following:

1) what are the correct-spec batteries for an RWMIK+

2) where can we buy the correct-spec batteries 

3) are there any alternative batteries that will do the job effectively and fit properly

4) IF the alternator is fried when we test it, is

a) the auxiliary alternator for the Bowman (which is still fitted to this one, but disconnected) a straight swap, presuming it still works

b) if it isn't, and the original is fried, is there any reliable source for a replacement (I know they're viciously expensive and not easy to find) or better still, rebuilding it?

 

Lastly, given it's a TGV 2.8 300TDi with minimal electrics, and the breakdown has been advised to me as 'gradually losing power and forward motion before coming to a halt and failing to start again', are the above potential battery/alternator issues symptomatic of this, or councidental and we should be looking elsewhere for the cause?

Apologies for sounding vague, but until the vehicle is recovered to our workshop we're a little bit in the dark on it.

Any help will be much appreciated!

[fv1609]

WM in answer to 4(a)

Not a straight swap. The vehicle pulley has 7 grooves & the radio pulley has 4 grooves. They can be swapped over if you remove pulley nut with a rattle gun, do not try to clamp the pulley it is easily damaged.

The basic alternator is the same except the rear terminals & connectors are rather different for each but they can be re-arranged, Bear in mind there is an AC output from the vehicle alternator that acts as a rev counter output that is used in vehicles fitted with EEGR.

I can't see how a failing alternator could gradually bring your vehicle to a halt. In what way was it unable to start? Just nothing or engine turned over but wouldn't fire? 

What do you mean by the wrong batteries were fitted? I can't remember off hand what vehicle batteries were original fit, but I believe at some stage they changed.

Bear in mind that the original vehicle batteries did not need to be vented but the radio ones did. When I fitted two vehicle batteries from Halfords 10 years ago (still going strong) I put venting pipes to connected into the radio battery venting system.

[wolfman]

thanks for the reply fv1609 - the info re the auxiliary alternator will be useful. 

Until the vehicle is recovered to our workshops, I'm relying on the explanation given by the guy who was driving it at the time, and I agree that the gradual loss of power tied together with the lack of electrics thereafter don't really make much sense. Apparently the vehicle was completely dead thereafter, and wouldn't turn over or even click when the ignition switch was turned. 

He opened the battery compartment and says a) the batteries are mismatched, which isn't a good sign, and that neither are the correct batteries size-wise. Obviously they will have to be replaced with a pair of the correct type and size ones as a matter of course, but I'm still struggling to find out what the correct battery specs are. Any help on this, and where we can get them, will be very helpful. 

[Ian J]

One would have to wonder if the guy has siezed the engine?  Gradual loss of power then would not turn over would sure ring alarm bells for me!  I guess its possible that the fuel shutoff solenoid slowly closed as battery voltage fell but I would have thought thats a long shot.

 

Cheers

Ian

[andym]

In the absence of any further information I'm at a loss to understand how "incorrect batteries" could cause the stated problems?

Andy

[wolfman]

thanks for the replies. It would appear that the alternator had stopped charging, which gradually reduced the voltage, causing the fuel shutoff solenoid to slowly close as above. 

Alternator repaired, a matching pair of new 063 batteries (which fit with a little modification to the base of the battery tray) and all is OK now. 

[andym]

Good to know it's all fixed!

Andy

[fv1609]

WM bear in mind that although the radio batteries were provided with a venting system, the vehicle batteries were of type that required no venting.

When you come to fit normal batteries they need to be vented as hydrogen will build up within the confines of battery storage space under the passenger seat base. When I fitted replacement vehicle batteries I vented them via tubes to a T-piece I fitted to the existing venting system for the radio batteries (that exits to the left side of the body).

There should be two venting holes on each side of the batteries. Venting plugs & pipes were connected to the batteries to feed the radio batteries T-piece. The unused vents on the other side of the batteries need to be plugged over so that hydrogen only leaves via the tubing vents.

[wolfman]

thanks - that's worth bearing in mind, although the battery compartment on a R WMIK+ isn't under the passenger seat, but on the offside where the storage locker would normally be on a military 110. The locker door gets opened regularly as this is where the main power switch isolator lives.