wolfman

thanks - that's worth bearing in mind, although the battery compartment on a R WMIK+ isn't under the passenger seat, but on the offside where the storage locker would normally be on a military 110. The locker door gets opened regularly as this is where the main power switch isolator lives.

thanks for the replies. It would appear that the alternator had stopped charging, which gradually reduced the voltage, causing the fuel shutoff solenoid to slowly close as above. Alternator repaired, a matching pair of new 063 batteries (which fit with a little modification to the base of the battery tray) and all is OK now.

thanks for the reply fv1609 - the info re the auxiliary alternator will be useful. Until the vehicle is recovered to our workshops, I'm relying on the explanation given by the guy who was driving it at the time, and I agree that the gradual loss of power tied together with the lack of electrics thereafter don't really make much sense. Apparently the vehicle was completely dead thereafter, and wouldn't turn over or even click when the ignition switch was turned. He opened the battery compartment and says a) the batteries are mismatched, which isn't a good sign, and that neither are the correct batteries size-wise. Obviously they will have to be replaced with a pair of the correct type and size ones as a matter of course, but I'm still struggling to find out what the correct battery specs are. Any help on this, and where we can get them, will be very helpful.

we have a 1999 RWMIK+, 24 volt naturally, that seems to have been supplied to us (from an MOD disposal contractor that shall remain nameless) with the wrong batteries in it (the starter batteries NOT the radio batteries) which seems to have caused the vehicle to have broken down, and possibly fried the alternator. Until it's recovered to us on Thursday I don't know any more, but I'm hoping the expertise here will be able to advise the following: 1) what are the correct-spec batteries for an RWMIK+ 2) where can we buy the correct-spec batteries 3) are there any alternative batteries that will do the job effectively and fit properly 4) IF the alternator is fried when we test it, is a) the auxiliary alternator for the Bowman (which is still fitted to this one, but disconnected) a straight swap, presuming it still works b) if it isn't, and the original is fried, is there any reliable source for a replacement (I know they're viciously expensive and not easy to find) or better still, rebuilding it? Lastly, given it's a TGV 2.8 300TDi with minimal electrics, and the breakdown has been advised to me as 'gradually losing power and forward motion before coming to a halt and failing to start again', are the above potential battery/alternator issues symptomatic of this, or councidental and we should be looking elsewhere for the cause? Apologies for sounding vague, but until the vehicle is recovered to our workshop we're a little bit in the dark on it. Any help will be much appreciated!