Dodge wc51 1942, what oils would you use?

[squirrel_sport]

Hello all. 

I am doing a full oil change and am looking at the Morris range. 

I was thinking of using the golden film straight 30 for the engine. 

The AG90 for the gearbox, transfer box and axles. 

And the K400 EP for the front axle swivles. 

What's everyone's thoughts on this or is there better options? 

Thanks for any advise. 

[squirrel_sport]

Does anyone have any views about if I will be using the correct oils? Seem to find a lot of contradicting info on the net about what to use.. 

[Pete Ashby]

I've used the Morris range for many years in a range of MV's not the cheapest but I think you get what you pay for.  The grades and types you suggest above are fine and fit for purpose. 

Your right there is all sorts of chat on the web or at the bar in the beer tent about what's the best for maintaining oil pressure, reducing engine heat, not dissolving all the yellow metal in your power train ( bronze thrust pads in diffs or phosphor bronze thrust washers in the gearboxes etc etc etc etc    

 The one useful point here is to avoid the ones with the additives that may possibly attack the yellow metal in the power train and if you buy supermarket home brand engine oil you get what you pay for.

Pete

[squirrel_sport]

Thank you sir for taking the time to reply. I am glad that all my resurch into it all has come up right. 

[Tony B]

I use Halford's 20/50 classic oil in my engines. Holds pressure better after a long run.

[Adrian Barrell]

A consideration should be the use of detergent oils in an engine that only uses a bypass oil filter system. If the engine is clean and you do regular oil changes, it's fine. 

[squirrel_sport]

to be honest that's why I was looking at the straight 30 as I don't know any service history on mine and I have only had it about a year.

 

[Pete Ashby]

4 hours ago, squirrel_sport said:

to be honest that's why I was looking at the straight 30 as I don't know any service history on mine and I have only had it about a year.

 

Very wise,

as Adrian notes the use of modern detergent oils in an unknown engine has the potential to lead to serious problems with blocked oil ways the same applies to the use of flushing oils,  I tend to believe if the lubrication system is that dirty then something else is wrong with the motor and it needs to come apart to be checked, fixed then cleaned properly. 

I've used Morrison's straight 30 in several Canadian 216 Chevrolet engines these early war engines have no filtration, splash feed big ends, and very low pressure relief settings both have performed faultlessly for many years so just make sure you change the oil every couple of thousand miles and you'll be good to go.

Pete

[Tony B]

Well if you don't know the history of th engines, surley now is the time to drain oil drop the sump have a good look around, flush it clean, and then use an oil which far more technically advanced than a Straight 30?

[Degsy]

Have you got shares in Halfords Tony? The perceived wisdom on here has always been to use a good quality 30 grade such as Morris's, that's what these engines were designed to use also modern manufacture is far superior to the wartime product. In your vehicles you can use what you want but who's going to pay if it all goes pear shaped?

[squirrel_sport]

I am going to have a proper look inside the engine this winter as I don't know any history. Just want to be able to use it this year and not find something that I am not happy with internally. 

I do belive that everyone has their own opinion about things and I just don't like multi grade in older vehicles to be honest due to the way the oil systems work. 

I was more interested in making sure I was using the correct gearbox oils and swivle joint lubricants really. 

But thank you to all that have given advise as I do find that all opinions are worth doing more resurch into. 

 

[Tony B]

I'm old enough to rememeber (Just) the launch of a World First- Duckhams Q20/50 multi valance  Motor Oil! No more multiple oil changes ,one oil for all seasons. Same arguments, sucking of teeth and shaking of heads. 🤣 60 odd years later, multi valenace oil is now the norm. Transmissions and difffs I'd agree with you, 

As for Halford's, no, I was using Valvolene 20/50 , which is expensive. I needed to do an oil change before going to Jersey and didn't have time to get the Valvoline so I went into Halfords and bought thier oil, which was cheaper. First thing I noticed was at the end of a long run the oil pressure stayed up compared to Valvoline. I ALWAYS let the engine idle down after a long run, since then I've used it with no problems. Maybe the long gevity of the vehicles is A they are built like bricks, B They were designed to work in extreme conditions, and C The drivers were taught to care for and be sympathtic to the vehicle. I know it's a hoary old chestnut, but Howard who was the first to teach me about mechanicals, always said 'Listen the vehicle, it will tell you if anything is wrong'.

[squirrel_sport]

Yep I agree that a vehicle talks to you.. Most of my work is on the old air-cooled vws and that is the same.. You can hear a problem. They don't like multi grade oils though unless is is a new rebuilt engine.. Some of the engine rebuilers out there for air cooled side still even recommend using straight 30 due to the way it works. 

[Tony B]

Intresting about the air cooled engines. My boss still has his first car, a VW Bettle that you can eat your dinner of fthe paintwork, he also has a couple of old Malta buses, one started life as a Matador. I'm currently driving mostly a pair of Merc Sprinters, their doing over a thousand miles a week. Lovely vehicles but very touchy if you you use the wrong oil or the wrong amount. 

Edit: Not a Matador, a QL!

 

Edited April 13, 2019 by Tony B

[squirrel_sport]

Yeah merc sprinters are a bit funny like that.. 

I do like the old buses from Malta. 

[Tony B]

https://www.thevintagebuscompany.co.uk/#arrive-in-style