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Bedfor mw cab gutter


Danny P

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I wanted to place the gutter in the cab of my bedford MW until I encountered the next bottleneck. It looks like the two upper carriage bolts on the body front board (4 total) hinder the placement of the gutter (see picture below). At least the gutter will not be straight from the left to the right side of the cab by the bolts sticking out, unless I have to unscrew the 4 carriage bolts and drill some holes in the gutter and then return the bolts. What way is correct?

Thanks,

Danny

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Aren’t those four carriage bolt holes countersunk so that the heads of the bolts don’t protrude? Definitely no holes within the gutter panel. The woodwork is all original on my MWR and you can see the countersinking on the picture below

IMG_3517.JPG

Edited by simon king
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I wonder if these four bolts are countersunk bolts. They are not listed in the Bedford authorised service parts catalogue. 16 carriage bolts 5/16 Whit. x 1 1/2" are listed for body front reinforcement which is the maximum number of bolts.

I found below picture from Andy's bedford which implies that the carriage bolts go through the gutter. If you have a close look you can see the head of the carriage bolt as well as the flat washer on this MW.

So at the moment we actually having three suggestions:

• 4 countersunk bolts at top of front board (not officially listed) resulting in straight placement of gutter

• 4 carriage bolts behind the gutter/no holes through the gutter resulting in a curved placement fit of gutter to some extent

• 4 carriage bolts (with or without flat washers) through the gutter resulting in a straigt placement 

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Dannybedford_LI.jpg.178f2cdd79fda0059f95bf1c44b713f4.jpg

 

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Hi Danny

I have a couple of photos from Thomas Higgins (MWC restoation, same year as yours), these show holes in the rear of the "U" channel.

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also one for the bin support bracket

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On my MWC, I don't have the two lage "L" brackets on the back that bolt to the GS body, I do have a one rear upright that is to the rear of the bin, not sure what this attached to

Hope these help

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If you look closely at my picture, it is the holes in the wood that are slightly countersunk to take the bolts head, not the coach bolts themselves. The carriage bolts have standard domed heads. 

There are no holes in my original gutter panel, other than for attachment and for the two footmans loops for the cab canvas straps which may anyway be a post war/rebuild alteration as they appear to have been moved from the cab rear wood below the gutter panel. It’s a logical move as the lower edge of the panel could fray the strap if the loops remained in their original position

 

Edited by simon king
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A couple of points...

Danny’s MW , is a late MWC converted to a GS.  Tomas’s is a late MWC (not that many chassis numbers away from Danny’s)

The top board and “U” channel are secured differently.

The rear side panels are the same and there are no bolts through these to secure the top board. Also no bolt through the “U” channel to the top board.

On a GS there are two big “L” sections that are in line with the chassis rails. These are not present on an MWC. On a GS the top board is attached by coach bolts to this “L” section. It would make sense that on the back board that these are countersunk (As per Simon’s original boards). On the MWC, these “L” sections aren’t present (so how is the top board held securely in place ?)

On another GS  coach bolts are used (Can’t really tell if these are countersunk)

597147586_GSRearBoard.thumb.jpg.aa8857c3d62bba2a91228d2f97607dbb.jpg

The rearward facing lip of the “U” channel is screwed to the top edge of the top back board. Also the flanges on the end are screwed to the rear side panels

In the storage bin there is another vertical support strip that attaches all the back boards together, not sure if this is an “L” section or not (this is also present on an MWC) I have no photos of this.

Hope all this helps

Cheers

Richard

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As countersunk carriage bolts aren't listed, one possibility is that the bolts behind the gutter are tighten until the heads are flush with the face of the wood. Using a flat bit drill to make a shallow hole the size of the washer would give a flush head without damaging the surrounding wood.

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As an aside, on my MWR, which I think has a body that started out as a GS body before conversion to MWR standard as it still has tailgate bump stops on both sides, that gutter panel rearward facing lip has been bent up through 90 degrees so that it instead screws into the additional board added around the top of the body. 

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