DFC1943Fl.Lt. Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Have been thinking of taking the power pack out of my Mk1 ferret since the engine was seized due to non use. Got the thing turning over a half rev then stuck solid. Removed the head to find 2 exhaust valves were stuck closed. Freed them off, took the inlet valves out and reground them in. Put the head back on and proceeded to torque up the head nuts only to drop one never to be seen again. Now I know I could just get hold of another nut, but this has made my mind up to remove the pack. My question is, I'm thinking once the power pack is out what would be the safest way to fire up the engine with it on the ground. I know a large water container to place the coolant hoses in, jerry can of fuel. But with regards to electrics for turning over the pack to start and the stability of the engine. Would it need to be strapped to a pallet or something. (Should I put the exhaust on or just scare the hell out of the neighbours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Grundy Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Don't forget the oil pipes, or there will be a mess........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 The problem is that the Ferret doesn't have a "Pack" per se; rather a series of components bolted into a hull and connected together. In order to run it, you will pretty much have to take all the various bits out of the vehicle and then assemble them together outside of it. As Bob has pointed out, the oil system will be a significant issue. Depending on your requirements, you might be best off taking it to an engine dyno; aside from the oil system, they will have everything needed to test and evaluate the engine in controlled conditions and won't be too expensive. Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexton Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 When you removed the head, did the engine then turn over freely? Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFC1943Fl.Lt. Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 When you removed the head, did the engine then turn over freely? Malcolm Hi Malcolm, yes once I freed off the 2 sticking exhaust valves it turned very easily. Now the head is back on, it still turns freely. Will most likely just remove the engine, see what else has been dropped over the years give it a good clean up and most probably replace the brake lines. Then get it back in and proceed from there. Cheers Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFC1943Fl.Lt. Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 Don't forget the oil pipes, or there will be a mess........... Cheers Bob, yes would be very messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFC1943Fl.Lt. Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 The problem is that the Ferret doesn't have a "Pack" per se; rather a series of components bolted into a hull and connected together. In order to run it, you will pretty much have to take all the various bits out of the vehicle and then assemble them together outside of it. As Bob has pointed out, the oil system will be a significant issue. Depending on your requirements, you might be best off taking it to an engine dyno; aside from the oil system, they will have everything needed to test and evaluate the engine in controlled conditions and won't be too expensive. Cheers, Terry Hi Terry, see your point, will just try it when its back in place. Just thought if there were any issues with it, it would have been easier to have sorted it with the lump out for ease of access. Cheers Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Hi Steve, The theory is certainly sound, but the 50's vehicles weren't designed to work that way, unfortunately. Once things like the K60 powered FV430 series came along, you could literally do a pack lift, put the pack in front of the vehicle (backwards), hook up a few wires and pipes and test run it out of the vehicle. It could be argued that the 430 series weren't too much better as a combat vehicle than the earlier 600 series, but they were certainly much easier to maintain. Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexton Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I wouldn't have thought it would be that complicated to run the B60 on a stand. 24V to the R wire on the ignition junction box on the engine, toggle-switched 24V to the SOL terminal to fire the starter solenoid, 24V from batteries to the starter, the oil filter plumbed into the block and hanging off a bungee cord, the oil cooler hanging off another bungee cord with the two hoses from it submerged in a 20 l pail of oil, a gasoline supply hooked into the fuel pump, coolant circuit plumbed into the rad. Hmm, you'd need the fluid coupling for the starter. That might be a problem since it would have to run dry. So you'd have to dismantle it to get down to just the front casing? Just thinking out loud here because it's an interesting project. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Hmm, you'd need the fluid coupling for the starter. That might be a problem since it would have to run dry. So you'd have to dismantle it to get down to just the front casing? Just thinking out loud here because it's an interesting project. Malcolm If you want to play those kind of games, you could always get out the cranking handle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Starter works direct on the flywheel, the fluid flywheel only drives the gearbox, it has no influence on starting, but if connected to the gearbox for testing then it should be filled. I have bench tested B range engines without issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexton Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 If you want to play those kind of games, you could always get out the cranking handle... That would work but it makes me sweat just thinking about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexton Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Starter works direct on the flywheel, the fluid flywheel only drives the gearbox, it has no influence on starting, but if connected to the gearbox for testing then it should be filled. I have bench tested B range engines without issues. Ah, yes, of course. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFC1943Fl.Lt. Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 I thank you all for your input on this matter. I was just thinking of splitting the engine from the gearbox, securing somehow and hooking up water butt for cooling. Make sure the oil will circulate, jerry can of fuel and just jumping across the starter from a 24v set up. Not that easy then. Wasn't thinking of it being hooked up to the wiring in the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Glad to hear you got it freed off Steve, I suppose you'll be wanting the radiator cowling at some point... I think with the engine out, it would make it easier to install the brake servo and associated brake lines. I don't see it would be any more difficult to temporarily rig some wiring to "bench test" a B60 than it is a J60 from a CVRT. If you are taking the engine out, you may also want to consider renewing the fluid flywheel seals while you can get to them. Vince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFC1943Fl.Lt. Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Glad to hear you got it freed off Steve, I suppose you'll be wanting the radiator cowling at some point... I think with the engine out, it would make it easier to install the brake servo and associated brake lines. I don't see it would be any more difficult to temporarily rig some wiring to "bench test" a B60 than it is a J60 from a CVRT. If you are taking the engine out, you may also want to consider renewing the fluid flywheel seals while you can get to them. Vince Hi Vince, hope you and the family are ok. Yes it is a relief to know there wasn't much wrong with the engine. Will take your advice on anything that may need doing while the engine is out, would be insane to not renew parts while it's out. Yes, will be looking at getting things sorted over the next few weeks. Just want to get the thing done, started and driven. I have decided not to go all out and do a complete nuts and bolts job with spaying every part as it will only get dirty when out and about, don't want to ruin that 'Been there' look. One thing I was wanting to know is where I can get hold of the forehead foam like pads on the hatches. Managed to get hold of another canvas cover for £120. and has the No. of 33BA64 which is not far off mine of 33BA93 which I found amazing. As for the fan and cowling, may be we could meet up half way. Nice to hear from you again and how's that ferret of yours coming along? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Steve, New exhaust went on last night, fuel tank is out and away being renovated; once back in we're pretty much road ready Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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