Rover8FFR Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 Crickey I will need a vehicle the size of the PIG to take it all there..........:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh: Great advice chaps and thank you......All useful......I will advise on what I end up doing....... Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike65 Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Something like an ambulance pillow is good to support & prop up your head whilst underneath. Then can be used for kneeling on for other tasks. A bench cushion from a FV432 fits very nicely on the front wing of a Pig whilst working on the engine. Blimey you will have him falling asleep on the job. I bought a 1" thick oil resistant foam mat that is about 2 ft by 4 for a tenner (IIRC) at Newbury last year, one of the best things I have done. Really comfy for lying, kneeling or sitting. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 Especially after the Fish and Chips hey Mike :-D:-D:-D:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 Did BAOR Pigs have any additional markings other than front engine cover and rear doors as I will be getting the sanders/ wire cups out soon! and wondered. I believe my Pig was used in some way after release given the Brinks Matt type shields on the doors, but even the 4th Guards 'All Seeing Eye' appears over this so a really conundrum begins.............. However the Grey 'Ish' top coat she has right now will be rubbed back and I wondered if RED OXIDE primer or the BIEGE ETCHING primer was best to apply in a protection to rust, semi-exposed finish....... I assume that RED OXIDE is better, but I remain unsure! Advice appreciated as always Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Wayne on exterior surfaces & armoured flaps & doors opening outwards, you should find: Red Oxide primer Dark Admiralty Grey BSC381C 632 High Gloss DBG BSC381C 224 Markings, look on the top sections of rear doors, the rear apex for Union Flag. Sloping armour over rad for matching signs to rear ie Unit & Division. At apex of this white square with red circle (anti-freeze) As a bonus check off side of rad armour looking for yellow arrows pointing downwards marked DRAIN TAP or maybe an image of a drain tap. Possibly also yellow discs on doors. Also look on this sloping armour for large crudely painted numbers signifying Lot Number at auction. Also be on look out for stencilled vehicle depot markings such as Asset Code Number, CL (Classification), R (Receipt date), Maintenance Date (appearing as MAJOR or MINOR with date) these would all be an inch high in white & possibly also in red ERO (Equipment Release Order & Target Date) These would be at the front, possibly on doors. Sometimes people find these markings & enthusiastically reproduce them on their vehicles in the knowledge that they are authentic. I have seen a prizewinning vehicle so marked complete with all the usual kit & unit markings. However these depot markings should be painted out before issue to a unit. So if you find depot markings reproduce them by all means presenting the vehicle as it would be in storage but not with the unit markings as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 Wayne on exterior surfaces & armoured flaps & doors opening outwards, you should find: Red Oxide primer Dark Admiralty Grey BSC381C 632 High Gloss DBG BSC381C 224 Markings, look on the top sections of rear doors, the rear apex for Union Flag. Sloping armour over rad for matching signs to rear ie Unit & Division. At apex of this white square with red circle (anti-freeze) As a bonus check off side of rad armour looking for yellow arrows pointing downwards marked DRAIN TAP or maybe an image of a drain tap. Possibly also yellow discs on doors. Also look on this sloping armour for large crudely painted numbers signifying Lot Number at auction. Also be on look out for stencilled vehicle depot markings such as Asset Code Number, CL (Classification), R (Receipt date), Maintenance Date (appearing as MAJOR or MINOR with date) these would all be an inch high in white & possibly also in red ERO (Equipment Release Order & Target Date) These would be at the front, possibly on doors. Sometimes people find these markings & enthusiastically reproduce them on their vehicles in the knowledge that they are authentic. I have seen a prizewinning vehicle so marked complete with all the usual kit & unit markings. However these depot markings should be painted out before issue to a unit. So if you find depot markings reproduce them by all means presenting the vehicle as it would be in storage but not with the unit markings as well Thanks Clive...If I find anything at all I will flag out loud before reproduction................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84KB11 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 I find is best done with an "Andy" Model 5000 High Pressure Lubricator Can be used for oil or grease. Ideally nice to have one for each. Dale had 3 but they are all long gone. A bit more tedious you could use: Rover8FFR - do you still need one of the high pressure lubricators Clive mentions? If so, I have one gathering dust in the barn that I would happily donate to your Pig project! Give me a shout if interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Rover8FFR - do you still need one of the high pressure lubricators Clive mentions?If so, I have one gathering dust in the barn that I would happily donate to your Pig project! Give me a shout if interested. Do you mean the Andy 5000??????????? If so the answer is ABSOLUTELY YES PLEASE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84KB11 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Yes, its the "Andy 5000" Have replied to your PM also, so just need to sort out how to get it to you now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Yes, its the "Andy 5000" Have replied to your PM also, so just need to sort out how to get it to you now! David Mission achieved and thanks very much. Great to meet you and take it easy with the Vino! :nut: Nice to meet you and get the threads going for your LTWT.................:-D:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 I find is best done with an "Andy" Model 5000 High Pressure Lubricator Can be used for oil or grease. Ideally nice to have one for each. Dale had 3 but they are all long gone. Look what I am the proud owner of thanks to David.......................... Change the attachments for 11B nipples and we are away, with the grease gun retained for greasing duties etc. I hope David stays sober tonight.....LoL! :-D......Clive Full Demo Next Week Please during MT training. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Wayne that's a good result. I couldn't actually see the end termination you have. Most of them seem to come with conventional nipple, then the piece with 11B termination plugs into it. Although mine was NOS the rubber seal was failing in the adaptor piece & it leaked from this point. So I did away with the adaptor fitted the 11B fitting straight into the tube end. When you have oil in it always store the end above the level of the oil supply otherwise it will dribble out slowly. The best way to use oil is to fill up an empty grease can. I made the mistake of filling the tank up without this & there was a tiny leak at the base as it is not necessarily an oil proof seal around the edge of the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Wayne that's a good result. I couldn't actually see the end termination you have. Most of them seem to come with conventional nipple, then the piece with 11B termination plugs into it. Although mine was NOS the rubber seal was failing in the adaptor piece & it leaked from this point. So I did away with the adaptor fitted the 11B fitting straight into the tube end. When you have oil in it always store the end above the level of the oil supply otherwise it will dribble out slowly. The best way to use oil is to fill up an empty grease can. I made the mistake of filling the tank up without this & there was a tiny leak at the base as it is not necessarily an oil proof seal around the edge of the base. Yes good shout on the grease sweating the inside and creating a seal against weepage. The end attachment is just visible as a traditional grease nipple type lance / rod, that screws into the black hose / end thread etc..... I haven't tinkered with it just yet, but the night is still young ish :cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Well just don't make a mess on the carpet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 End close ups and actual dispensing end. Is this what you were referring to Clive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Yes so that is how it comes, but there would have been a plug-in adaptor that converts it into 11B mode. Apart from mine leaking at that junction, it was bulky, kept rotating & prone to pop off. So you just need to replace it with the 11B termination instead. The only justification to keep it would be if you had a Mk 2 that had been fitted with conventional lubrication nipples on the hubs for rapid filling of oil rather than fiddle with removing the brass oil plugs. Of course you've guessed it some see these nipples as an invitation to inject grease into the hub :-X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 Of course you've guessed it some see these nipples as an invitation to inject grease into the hub :-X Yes and well versed on Forum. Not hard to make that mistake unless you know or have documentation to hand to prevent. That the reason why we love your input so much........................:bow:.....If we are wrong you make sure we understand why and all that good stuff!..... I intend to bring back the small gauge lubricators you mentioned to switch lubricators for the PIG and store the grease lance for future re-fitment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84KB11 Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 David Mission achieved and thanks very much. Great to meet you and take it easy with the Vino! :nut: Nice to meet you and get the threads going for your LTWT.................:-D:-D Good to met you too Wayne, aways a pleasure to talk about green things Glad you are happy with the "Andy", poor thing has been most neglected at the back of the barn for many years, so needed a new home! Will try and sort some pics of the Lightweight project out and get a thread going, busy now making a list of all the missing bits so I can have a hunt for them at Malvern!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Wayne Need to check out some details on my trailer sometime, so if you want to to be introduced to Mr Coates of all things Landrovery give me a shout and We'll pop over to have a chat, thats a lovely looking oiler that you've got there for me mate if you need good cheapish oil localy try forest lubricants they are in Bream not for from the shotblasters. They will supply any grade either in 1 or 5 gall drums they also do antifreeze and engine cleaner fluid. Cheers RR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 (edited) Yes mate when you thinking of seeing Dave? Thanks for pointer on oil supplier locally.....Must be better than Halfords and closer Edited March 24, 2012 by Rover8FFR added content Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Any time really next week prob evenings as the daylight improves, best buy oil in bulk to save £££££££££££ give me shout and we'll pop over not weds as he goes out shame you couldnt make Malvern as we have a spare seat. RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Still need to know how it works as plunging squirted grease out of a small valve thing near top?????? And nothing out of lance end??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Any time really next week prob evenings as the daylight improves, best buy oil in bulk to save £££££££££££ give me shout and we'll pop over not weds as he goes out shame you couldnt make Malvern as we have a spare seat. RR Jeremy is Monday (tomorrow) night to soon as lots on in the week with work and stuff! Cheers mate I'll PM you so you can text me with an Okay etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Look what i found today I hav'nt a clue either :nut: but i am sure it will come in handy :shocked: was a good sale at malvern got most of the bits for the champ thing and more !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornishbloke Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 as far as the grease gun thing is concerned I've heard them called "Oddypots" although I don't know why. I've got one and you need to screw up the valve on the pot (the one where grease is coming out on yours) and then it should come out the lance. To get the lance off the nipple afterwards undo the valve on the pot. TBH they seem like a good idea, but I'm not sure as I just seem to end up covered in grease as it either squirts out of the pot or the lance. As it's double action, even picking it up can give you a greasy leg! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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