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Scammell Pioneer - Injection Pump


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I want to remove the injection pump from the Gardner 6lw engine .Is it a fairly straight forward task to remove the pump to be cleaned without upsetting the timing.This would enable the engine to be cleaned and painted then the cleaned pump to be reinstalled without to much hassle.When the pump is removed, can the timing shaft be left in the same place so that it does not require to be timed upon instalation?

 

Cheers

 

Bryan

02-11-11 002.jpg

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Hi,

Removal of the whole injection pump is not the most difficult of jobs but will generally mean retiming as you will have to de-mesh the drive gear.

As far as I am aware there is not an easy way of removing the pump and leaving the gear in situ.

Regards

Nigel

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Hi Nigel,

Think we,re getting our wires crossed.All I want to do is unbolt the pump,take it off ,clean it up and bolt it back on to the newly painted engine.The drive gear would stay with the pump.If the drive gear was not rotated in the pump housing and is in the same position as when re-moved is it just a case of bolting back on to the engine or would it have to be re timed ?

 

Cheers

 

Bryan

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Is this any help mate ?

 

Nice scan Andy but unfortunately this only describes removal of the pump units themselves and not the lower cam housing.

As Richard siad, if you remove the oil filler neck then the gear that drives the injection pump from the main cam is on display and pop marks can be placed on the gears to aid correct re-assembly or you can use the ones that should already be there by turning the engine until they line up.

Trying to do it without removing the filler neck will be very hit and miss due to the fact that the gear on the pump will turn slightly as it is withdrawn due to pressure on one of the cam lobes against the tappets of the pump itself.

You will also have to remove the Advance / Retard mechanism that is located on the side of the timing case as this sits behind the driven gear and moves the gear along the shaft to alter the fuel delivery timing at given engine speeds.

Good luck

Nigel

Edited by Plantters
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Thanks Guys,

You beat me to it Nigel about Andy,s scan.

Andy,I do have a copy of the manual, but as Nigel states, the information is more about the removal of the pumps rather than the cam box,but thanks anyway.

Nigel, I am going to remove the radiator anyway so will be able to remove the oil filler plate along with the front timming plate cover to allow marking the gears.Will the pump and cam box pull straight out without removing the advance and retard mechanism? ObviouslyI will have to remove the connecting rod from the throttle linkcage.

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Ok mate sorry it was no help , have you seen the Gardner manuals on Ebay at the moment ? Maybe if you have time you could show some photos of the removal and refit as I for one would find them interesting ! Also a video of the old beast firing up if you have a chance ! (yes I know I'm sad) :D:D:D

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Andy,

Will post photos when I get it removed.Have some video of the "Beast" running but will need to get it uplaoded.Will also have to start a thread of the rest of the restoration .Busy just now stripping the chassis of all bits which can be taken off ,stripped ,cleaned and primed.How,s Daisy coming along or is she all tucked up for winter?

 

Bryan

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Andy,

Will post photos when I get it removed.Have some video of the "Beast" running but will need to get it uplaoded.Will also have to start a thread of the rest of the restoration .Busy just now stripping the chassis of all bits which can be taken off ,stripped ,cleaned and primed.How,s Daisy coming along or is she all tucked up for winter?

 

Bryan

 

Hi Bryan,I look forward to seeing the pics ! As for Daisy she's been on the back burner for a while due to other things taking all my spare time but she is due some love and attention very soon ! :D

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Thanks Guys,

You beat me to it Nigel about Andy,s scan.

Andy,I do have a copy of the manual, but as Nigel states, the information is more about the removal of the pumps rather than the cam box,but thanks anyway.

Nigel, I am going to remove the radiator anyway so will be able to remove the oil filler plate along with the front timming plate cover to allow marking the gears.Will the pump and cam box pull straight out without removing the advance and retard mechanism? ObviouslyI will have to remove the connecting rod from the throttle linkcage.

 

No Mate, the advance / retard has to come out first as it is behind the gear. Not difficult to do though, just undo the bolts and the whole assy slides out.

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  • 7 months later...

Ok, its very easy, whether my description of how to do it will make it sound so remains to be seen. Turn the engine over by the ring gear in an anti-clockwise drection through the inspection hatch (top of the flywheel housing) until the marks for number one cylinder come into vision (on the flywheel). Then depending on whether the advance is set forwards or backwards, read off the settings on the housing and look for these on the flywheel and align them with the pointer in the inspection hatch. Now look at the injection pump and number one injection pump element, there is a little window in the body, and this has a scribed line on it, this will align (if the timming is set correctly in the first place) with a scribed line on the mooving element inside the pump. Then its simply a case of removing the pump. The first time it takes a bit of time but from then on, it can be done in minuites. The engine can be turned over with the pump removed without any issues....

 

Jerry

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