robin craig Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Radiator that was sent out has been declared in need of a rebuild at an exorbitant fee, so I sent the second rad in from the other vehicle. That has some issues with the the machine screws holding in the over flow cap unit so it is as yet not pressure tested. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Did some work a week ago digging out the debris from the hull. Nothing very exciting found inside as you can judge from this picture. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 On Wednesday past I managed to squeek in another night with Gerry in the shop. We were going after the " mystical" fluid flywheel. It was only after splitting the components I know understand why it is called what it is and not a torque converter as they are different. The process was quite simple if not a bit messy. Really when all is considered I think for the work Ferret that we have to do the same job on it will be pack out as it looks so much easier doing outside the vehicle. Parts are off for inspection and show and tell on Monday. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 I have received some "stick" from others on MLU on sending the unit out. I dropped by the shop where it is being sorted yesterday and snapped this picture. In discussion with Tommy the owner of the business, he and I have agreed on the plan of what to do and may well have this and the flywheel sorted this sunday as Im going in to work with Tommy on the pair. So far he has obtained new crush washers for the fill plugs, some new snap rings as they are knackered, a new bearing and seal. The unit has been apart before and the bolts holding the cup in place are toast so they are being replaced at the same time. Tommy, whose business is transmissions was ever so keen to play with this and was interested to see that the vanes are not angled but straight up and down. We have deduced that this was likely because of how they were made from a sand casting process before machining. When I go in on sunday i'm taking the t case gearbox lump in for him to inspect. Also yesterday the rad shop called and they say the second one I sent in is ready to go, good flow, no leaks! Im a happy bunny! Over the holidays we were away and in a junk store I found this Canadian armour plaque for next to no money and thought it would be good for my office at work. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 So, today, yes, New Years day, I met up with the transmission shop owner and he and I put th fluid flywheel together which he has glass beaded and cleaned to a forensic standard and painted and checked over all the bits I have given him so far. The flywheel proper is yet to come off. We have made a new gasket and punched it for holes and put it all back together with a Permatex product he likes and according to the makers is suitable. Hope you enjoy the photos. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Sorry couldn't get all the pictures in in one go. Here is the final steps. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m109a3uk Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 looking good there Robin. You will soon be up and running Looking forward to seeing this progress. Keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 So, yesterday saw some activity after a bit of a lull in the work. I was back over at Kingston Transmission and the owner Tommy and myself went at tearing the gearbox / transfer case lump down. Step 1 was removal of the covers and removal of the forward reverse shaft and selector and the spring and ball that acts as the detent. The giant heated washing machine in Tommy's shop is such a wonderful asset to have available. The oils in both cases were less than stellar, a brown viscous goo would be the best description. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 I guess I should say right here and now that if any Ferret website owner would like to lift any of these tear down pictures for their website, they are free to do so as long as I get a photo credit and some credit is given to HMVF. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 As I am a stickler for using the manuals it was Transfer case right side removal next. Two of the nuts on the rear side, the two that have to be walked off as you draw the cover off were not as ticght as they could have been, no signs of leaks though. I will say right now that there is a step missing in all 3 variations of the manuals we have. There is nothing about how the speedo drive cone is attached and how it comes off. This caused a bit of friction as it was Tommy who spotted the problem and identified it in the cross section figure in the manual. We undid the castellated nut and then got a bearing puller on the very small margin of the upper bearing race and managed to get the two of them moving. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Here is the lump of the right side housing unit. The lower bearing that is shown still in place, sadly has some small marking / pitting from having sat in less than clean oil. It is a shame as to this stage all the other parts have shown no kinds of damage. I am of course wondering how bad it really has to be to warrant replacement of the bearing. I know Tommy wants to replace it. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 With the speedo drive gear off we could pull the two gears off that are behind. With those off and the lower shaft removed we swung the unit around on the bench and took the left side off. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 The top of the gearbox casing is tagged with a nice plate giving details of when it was last rebuilt. Of note is the fact the top line states RCEME which stands for Royal Canadian Electrical and Mechanical Engineers, sadly this is hard to read from the picture but is visible in person. The workshops is 202 which still exists and is in Montreal, Quebec just two hours drive down the road. The last part of the tage is the date which is interesting as it it is the 17th of November 1978 which is only 3 years before the last Ferret was disposed of from service. All the gears look to be in fine fettle and no signs of wear. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 As I am a stickler for using the manuals it was Transfer case right side removal next. I will say right now that there is a step missing in all 3 variations of the manuals we have. There is nothing about how the speedo drive cone is attached and how it comes off. This caused a bit of friction as it was Tommy who spotted the problem and identified it in the cross section figure in the manual. Not knowing the origins of your manuals, but the British EMER first issue dated Dec 55, has Para. 28a "Remove inspection cover, dipstick and speedo drive" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 (edited) Dear Richard, As I don't have the manuals here at home I can not quote chapter and verse verbatim. Yes you are correct in what you say, but that is the outside part of the speedo I am thinking, if i'm wrong as I am thinking I may well be, then the step was stated. Any comments on the gearbox adjustment as seen Richard? Any comments on the lower bearing condition as described? To expand there are slight marks rather than pits where the rollers have been at rest on the races. the rollers themselves look to be about a 8 or 9 out of 10 condition. Our worry is that the lower bearings seem to be designed with a sideways thrust capacity to them and wonder as to their availablity and cost. R Edited January 15, 2012 by robin craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 (edited) Yes you are correct in what you say, but that is the outside part of the speed I am thinking, if i'm wrong as I am thinkig I may well be, then the step was stated. Any comments on the gearbox adjustment as seen Richard? Any comments on the lower bearing condition as described? To expand there are slight marks rather than pits where the rollers have been at rest on the races. the rollers themselves look to be about a 8 or 9 out of 10 condition. Robin, I was quoting from Base Repair section, which means, unit is not in vehicle, so the first instruction was to remove the cable drive pinion assembly. These manuals are very comprehensive, but you need all sections to hand, that includes Technical Description, to understand construction and work out how to dismantle. There are not detailed instructions on how to remove every mortal part. EMER's are still better than many manufacturers manuals. Gear adjusters show band condition to be good, but further inspection will confirm that hopefully. Edited January 15, 2012 by Richard Farrant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Tried posting this and it timed out. have another go ............. sorry i forgot ot mention the bearing, it is lipped on the outer in order to keep the shaft in location, in much the same way as a ball race. Would not describe it as a thrust bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Richard, yes, we have the EMERS for base overhaul in various ages and from both UK and Canada. I think I'm mistaken and i'm likely also splitting atomic hairs in my whining. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 I guess I should say right here and now that if any Ferret website owner would like to lift any of these tear down pictures for their website, they are free to do so as long as I get a photo credit and some credit is given to HMVF. R Hi Robin, I wouldn't half inching a few pictures I've managed to delete my fluid flywheel pictures at some point in the last couple of months :banghead: Class is all I'm going to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Pinch away but please give a credit as to the source etc etc R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 (edited) Well, it has been a while hasnt it? I have recently turned 50 and many other distractions have been circling but I am trying to plug away on the gearbox with my friend Tommy and his transmission shop. We spent most of the day saturday working but were distracted by hangers on who dropped by for a gawp and the arrival of the greasiest pizza you have ever eaten. In between all of that we did get some work done. The bottom plate of the gearbox was stripped bre as the thickness of the sludge in the bottom of the gearbox meant that getting it clean was difficult. We also noted that there was what appeared to be pitting in the aluminium bottom plate from where moisture has sat at the lowest point in the small depression. We presume various things precipitate out of the oils in time as well as the water and causes the corrosion to the plate. We ended up glass beading the plate and will likely use JB weld to fill in the pitted area. We did start assembling the brake bands bake onto the lower plate, we had lots of fun with the small springs that are in either side under the brake bands. One of those got loose on us and travelled quite a ways across the shop very fast.:cool2: You can see an example of one of the springs in the second picture. Anyhow, we used sealants on all the bolts holding the brake bands down and Loctite on the threads so I'm feeling happy. I had hoped to see more of it assembled but it wasn't to be. I am told I have a date again this saturday coming so hopefully more will be done then. R Edited March 20, 2012 by robin craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 (edited) Sadly Tommy was busy this weekend getting transmissions built for this week, such are the joys of an owner of a business. I did tinker in our shop for a while this afternoon. The brackets for the fuel tank have let go from the rubber and while I have a back up "B" and "C" plan I really wanted a go at fixing them. I had purchased a while ago a product from Mr Loctite after doing some considerable research with their tech rep. He came up with this as the best product. It was recommended to not scuff but only clean the surfaces. This one had let go one one side only the other being still fully bonded. I set it up in the shop and have left it to cure overnight in 50 degrees c so we will see in the morning what the result is. I might have just as well been buying Channel No5 as this bottle cost me over $40 with all taxes in. I hope it works! Here is a link to the data sheet for it http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/3410-EN.PDF R Edited April 2, 2012 by robin craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 just read this thread, good luck with the restoration your really going to town on it. Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hussar1982 Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Robin I know this is a little off topic but. Do you know where to get fuel and oil filters locally. Are these things that can be pucchased from an auto parts store. We are gettin ready to test fire our B60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 I did see on another thread someone doing an adapter for the oil filter, so you can use the standard disposable ones.But I cant remember the thread, sorry. You can get new old stock filters in the UK from Banisters. If that's any help:-|. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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