Chrisg Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Is there such a thing as a 24 volt hydraulic switch or will a 12 volt one do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 fv1609 Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Chris if it fits use it! The critical factor is the current that it can switch. For a given load a 12v switch will carry twice the current of a similar 24v circuit. In other words the 12v switch should easily withstand the lower current flowing in a similar 24v circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chrisg Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 i am but they dont sem it last more than 18 months before they fail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 fv1609 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 But are you using it to switch a relay or are you powering the brake lights directly from the switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chrisg Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 lights are powered directly from the switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 antar Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 lights are powered directly from the switch Put a relay in the circuit, you will need a 24v one this time. This way the contacts in the relay carry the current (amps) required by the 2 bulbs, the contacts in your brake light switch then only carry the current required by the coil in the relay (a lot lower). Your switch should then last a lot longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 fv1609 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Chris I would use a relay. Even the Humber brake switch uses a relay despite being a fairly substantial switch. Switches on sale here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Military-vehicle-pressure-switch-FV-260898-/360333786520?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item53e5913d98 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chrisg Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 :tup:: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Essex5 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Don't want to confuse the issue (too much!), but there is also the question of whether the switch is failing electrically (burnt contacts) or mechanically (diaphragm not pushing the contacts together). If it's electrical, then putting a relay in circuit will help reduce the load on the contacts, as stated above. If, however, it's a mechanical or hydraulic failure, then the best solution might be to use a mechanical switch directly on the brake pedal or linkage - this also means that it is renewable without losing brake fluid and having to rebleed the system. The hydraulic brake-light switch on my Munga failed, and I have replaced it with a series 1 landrover mechanical switch - it's underneath, so no-one will see it! The lights also come on slightly sooner, when the pedal operates, rather than waiting until pressure rises in the system. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chrisg Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Burnt contacts. can replace the switch without having to beed the bakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 fv1609 Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Adding a capacitor can help reduce arcing a bit. But you can do that as well as adding a relay. http://www.mgexperience.net/article/brake-light-relay.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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Chrisg
Is there such a thing as a 24 volt hydraulic switch or will a 12 volt one do?
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