question Land Rover Defender

[LoggyDriver]

Has anyone changed a front swivel housing oil seal, the one behind a retaining ring behind the gaitor? My N/S has started to weep and it looks like you have to take the whole wheel station off to change it.

 

I was wondering if I can split the axle casing where the swivel housing bolts to the axle shaft and just pull it apart complete with the half shaft, fit the new seals and bolt back up.

 

Has anyone tried this method?:shocked:

[mike65]

My 109 has started marking its territory from one of these aswell so it looks like we are both in the same position

Have studied my manuals and parts catalogue and looks like you need to take the whole thing off to change the seal, as half shaft needs to be withdrawn from axle. Although once half shaft is out you can then replace. Do not appear to have to take whole assembly to pieces.

Have heard about 'one shot' grease you can use to replace the oil. However am unsure if it is any good let alone where to get some.

 

Mike

[Degsy]

One shot grease is available from all Land Rover franchised dealers and also from all the non franchised parts dealers.

[Degsy]

One shot grease is available from all Land Rover franchised dealers and also from all the non franchised parts dealers. I have used it in my own Defenders for many years. However although we used to use 140 gear oil in series hubs to stop leaks and I do know of people using the grease in series hubs Land Rover don't recommend it.

Edited June 7, 2010 by Degsy

[LoggyDriver]

I know all the modern Defenders use this grease, which from memory looks grey?

 

I would have thought the swivel housings would need to be cleaned of oil first before using this grease though? How much grease goes in them Degsy, is it the same amount as what there is in oil in there?

 

The trouble is the CV joint. It's not like the rears where you can just pull the half shaft out, you need to remove the whole hub to pull the shaft. That's why I had the idea of unbolting the swivel housing from the axle casing. The half shaft would then come out from the diff.

 

It's a lot of work for a poxy couple of quid seal. Is there a downside to using grease?

 

I suppose as it's 23 years old they don't last for ever!:-(

[utt61]

Done this on a Series One (similar as far as I know) and the only downsides to what you propose are:

 

1) you will need consider the brakes (on a drum braked LR you would have to disconnect the brake line and bleed afterwards but on a disc braked one you may be able to remove and tie back the caliper)

 

2) if you remove the complete hub/brake/swivel/halfshaft assembly as one piece it is a big and heavy lump (and it bends in the middle). There are risks to fingers etc.

 

That being said, it is the way I would do it if I had to.

 

HTH.

[Degsy]

Hi LD, its ok to use the grease on old pre Defender 90s and 110s, I used it for years in a 1985 Ninety and yes the oil needs to be drained out. The hub needs to be stripped right down to replace the seal although I know a guy who has worked on Land Rovers since time immemorial who claims he can do the job by cutting the seal , and then glueing it back together,:nut: can't say I'd recommend it. If you do take it apart it might be worth fitting new bearings and seals in the steering and hubs, they are not too expensive but when rebuilding it you need to use a spring balance to check the 'pull' on the steering and add or remove shims to adjust it.

The grease comes in one shot sachets so you cant go wrong on quantity. I always put the sachets in warm water before using them,makes it a lot easier and the vehicle needs to be jacked up and the steering turned to full lock to allow the swivel to clear the filler hole. Sorry if I am 'trying to teach my grand mother to suck eggs' but just attempting to help as much as I can. This is all from memory and if I have forgotten anything I claim senility:confused: no doubt somebody will post to tell me I am completely wrong:pfrt:

[Degsy]

Forgot to say no problems that I have ever heard of in using grease and I would use it without hesitation.

I have never used any of the aftermarket stuff, only ever used genuine but not saying there is any thing wrong with the spurious product.

[LoggyDriver]

Thanks for the reply Degsy.

 

I rebuilt both axles about 8 years ago with all new everything including brake calipers (£350 EACH:shocked:), discs, hoses, bearings, seals, nuts and bolts etc all genuine parts. I never ever use pattern parts as they are just a waste of money.

 

I might just go down the grease route to save on all the work. The cutting of the seal sounds interesting. If you placed the cut at the top then this should work, but the amount you would need to open it up to get it over the axle casing would surely distort it?

[mike65]

One shot grease is available from all Land Rover franchised dealers and also from all the non franchised parts dealers. I have used it in my own Defenders for many years. However although we used to use 140 gear oil in series hubs to stop leaks and I do know of people using the grease in series hubs Land Rover don't recommend it.

 

Just out of interest are there major differences between the series and 90/110/defender swivel hubs?

 

Mike

[Degsy]

Grease is definitely the way to go, Land Rover allegedly brought it in following complaints about leaks from Discos, new kind of owners unlike farmers etc who had always accepted leaks everywhere as a LR idiosyncracy.:-)

It is made to be suitable for the cv jolnts fitted to Range Rover Classics and subsequent permanent 4wd models but not recommended by Land Rover for the type of joints fitted to all the series models although I do know of people using it.

As regards the seal I agree with you on the distortion and I wouldn't try to do it except perhaps in emergency situation.

Edited June 8, 2010 by Degsy

[Degsy]

Just out of interest are there major differences between the series and 90/110/defender swivel hubs?

 

Mike

Main difference is Ralko bushes in Series vehicles but bearings in later models.

Edited June 8, 2010 by Degsy

[LoggyDriver]

I thought this might explain the method I'm thinking of better.

[Degsy]

I thought this might explain the method I'm thinking of better.

 

I understood what you meant but I've not seen it done that way and not sure if it's a possibility. The weight will certainly make it difficult and I have my doubts whether you could refit it without stripping it down. Don't forget to get the new gaskets you will need to rebuild it.

[robin craig]

I agree with Degsy, warming the sachet first and dont cut the tip off too big!

 

Main dealer service manager who is a leading light locally and a great mechanic before he was elevated to pencil pusher told me about warming the sachet.

 

Works very well.

 

R

[gritineye]

Yes you can do it that way, remember that the grease cannot be drained out so if you intend to wade and water gets in past the worn seal the whole lot will need stripping to remove it, make sure your breather is clear to reduce suction when axle suddenly cools when plunged.

 

In my experience the gaiters can trap water inside after wading, so causing rapid rusting of the ball surface and tearing of the seal, maybe best to leave them off.

 

Apart from that the grease works a treat, I have had it in there for many years after mine started leaking, also use it in my Explorer steering box after I couldn't pull the drop arm to replace the seal.

[LoggyDriver]

I've never off roaded the Land Rover unless it's dry and never go in water. I went up to the top of my windscreen in my Lightweight once in a flooded ford, that was enough!:blush:

[gritineye]

Know what you mean, in the past my off road exploits have meant the sudden demise of countless LR drive-line components, can't see any fun in it now, no way Forceful is going near water!