R Cubed Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Well done for the challenge of taking on such a rebuild, but did you intend on using the whole new chassis, if so do you know if the new chassis in the above pics on the trailer had split axles or banjo axles fitted to it, the reason I say this is there are 2 types of chassis one for split axles and the other for banjo axles they are very different, all to do with the mounting of the transfer box all the axles they have different cross members and torque rods are also different lengths too !!!!!!!! The torque rods are also hard to get so keep them and look after them. Just thought you said you were new to GMC's so just some more help the 2 types of axles refer to the diff casing : Split type: diff case looks like two funnels bolted together ( your old axles ) Banjo type: diff case look like old Land Rover axles one solid case and axle tubes and the diff bolts in to the diff case. Torque rods: these are the things which locate the rear axles to the chassis stops them moving backwards and forwards. Hope this helps good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevemil Posted January 24, 2011 Author Share Posted January 24, 2011 The chassis is from a Banjo axled truck I believe!, so with the info that you've armed me with it looks like it may not be as straight forward as first thought! We had planned just to swap the chassis over but it we'll most likeley have to use our front end and join them together just to the rear of the transfer box crossmember, or fit the crossmembers from the old chassis, we'll access it when we get both chassis side by side . How much difference is there in the rear axle mountings between the split and banjo chassis? would the longer torque rods be due to different mountings on the axle or the chassis? as i'm hoping that the axle mounts on the chassis will be the same!. Thanks for the help so far. Regards Steve.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 As far as I know the rear spring mountings are the same, but due to the shape and positions of the types of diff which are in slightly different positions too on the axles the torque rods are fixed to the axles in different places, the banjo torque rods are longer ( I think ) Looking at the two chassis in a book I have the rear cross members seem to be in the same place but torque rod mountings are in different places. So it looks like the only cross member which is different is the transfer box one, Ahh the front springs and spring hangers are different too.... Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extrogg Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 (edited) Hi Again folks, We found the serial number this evening we have dated it to early 1942, supposedly there is a lot of paperwork to come from the solicitor for the truck so we're looking forward to trawling through this when it arrives.We're hoping to get the truck in a state that it can be moved on the road as it's currently stored a couple of miles away at a farm, We are removing the body tommorow so that we can get at the hubs etc better. The brakes are first on the agenda so any advice on what to look out for in this area on this model would be appreciated. Can anybody reccomend a company that can supply 7.50x20 tires for it? I suspect that these are a bit scarce now but here's hoping :-\ sorry for all the questions. Cheers Steve.. Hi..You probably already know but I found this and thought it would be of interest to you. Excellent project you've taken on and wish you all the best! http://www.milweb.net/webverts/53194/ Edited January 25, 2011 by extrogg spelling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevemil Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Thanks for the chassis info we'll see how best to tackle it when the old chassis is stripped. Cheers for the link to the tyres I think i've seen the same ad on Ebay?, I'd better start saving! £1250 for 10 :wow: it's a bitter pill to swallow but we have to have them and I really want the original bar grip pattern. Regards Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Thanks for the chassis info we'll see how best to tackle it when the old chassis is stripped. Cheers for the link to the tyres I think i've seen the same ad on Ebay?, I'd better start saving! £1250 for 10 :wow: it's a bitter pill to swallow but we have to have them and I really want the original bar grip pattern. Regards Steve 10 !!!!!!! no, 11 you will want a spare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpu121265 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Or even worse, perhaps 12 depending on how many spares you carry.... Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Or even worse, perhaps 12 depending on how many spares you carry....Ken As in my case !!!!! a 352 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevemil Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Think we'll take a chance with the spare for now Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevemil Posted April 26, 2011 Author Share Posted April 26, 2011 Hi Folks its been a while and almost 12 months since we bought the truck and we've finally started to dismantle it!. Lot's of nuts and bolts have rusted so bad that they were half there original size but with some determination they all come undone!, amazing really considering the condition of them. Easter sunday the rear axle bogey was first off this is where the worst of the rust was but an afternoon had this all undone and off. I only had a couple of hours Monday evening but this was enough to get the front axle off. Years of leaking oil in this area meant this came off with no problems at all. Next weekend we'll hopefully alter the chassis "as the donor is a Banjo axle chassis" and get the axles split checked over and bolted to the donor chassis. we can think about getting it blasted and undercover then. Cheers Steve.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 (edited) It'll look better soon, I'm sure. Actually that's a nice truck, early front, winch model ..... What snippets can I add ? I prefer the banjo to split axles, and do remember that there are differences in the transfer case between split and banjo too. Looking at them in section 8 of the Master Parts the two transfer cases are almost completely different animals. While you have it this far down, double check the pillow block bearings for slop, and the radius rods too - you'll never have a better opportunity. Edited April 26, 2011 by Gordon_M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevemil Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 We had a few hours to spare this afternoon so stripped the rear bogey down, heres a couple of pics of the rear spring seat bearings. As we thought they are completely knackered. on closer inspection of the torque rods there seems to be a lot of perishing on the rubbers! can anyone advise just what we can get away with with these and what to watch out for?. We've also decided to replace the rear springs as a matter of course they're very rusty and pitted and i'm sure would not last for long once in use. We plan to split the axles tommorow hopefully there's no horror stories awaiting us in there :-) Cheers Steve.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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