Richard Grosvenor Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 Hello I took the Militant for it's first run after being repainted today. All was well until I returned home and checked round to see if anything had broken, stuck on or fallen off! But one of the rear wheels had quite a bit of oil around it . Closer inspection revealed a leaking wheel hub grease nipple/lubricator which shouldn't be too much trouble to repair ( famous last words!!) but the question is; what type of oil to put back in and how do I check the level? Many thanks in advance Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Grosvenor Posted June 12, 2006 Author Share Posted June 12, 2006 Well I think the reason why the oil came out has been found. The brakes on that wheel are sticking and the drum and hub had got a bit hot. I suppose it's to be expected with it standing for a while. I've had to get someone to come and do the job though as there is no-way I can manage to take the wheel off on my own. I've also found how to check the hub oil level but haven't found out the correct type of oil to use. Any ideas, anyone? :shock: Regards Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 I "think" it was OEP-220 but could be wrong - I'm dredging back over 30 years to when I used to drive them and all I recall being in the POL stores for our troop was OMD-75 and OEP-220. If some one else has the servicing schedule then obviously they will have the right answer (hope that makes sense??) As for the wheels - again bearing in mind I was aged about 20 at the time - then providing you have the wheel brace, jack with 2-piece handle and block a wheel on, wheel off operation can be done by one man. Provided the wheel is kept upright!! Off's the easy bit. To put a wheel on - line it up with the hub C/Line then, using the jack handle in two pieces, lift the wheel up until you can nudge it over the hub. If the holes don't line up you then "shuffle" the wheel around using the two parts of the jack handle. It was a <censored> of a job though!!! :cry: :cry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 To put a wheel on - line it up with the hub C/Line then, using the jack handle in two pieces, lift the wheel up until you can nudge it over the hub. If the holes don't line up you then "shuffle" the wheel around using the two parts of the jack handle. Neil...and Richard, Fitting the wheel can be done on your own using a shovel, not one of those entrenching types but a wide builders type, so long as the handle is good! Also Richard, at your work, you may use pallet trucks, they work well so long as you line the wheel up first or get someone else to turn the hub for you. Re. the oil, I used to work on loads of the old 10 tonners, but it is too far back to remember, it is either OEP 220 or maybe OC600. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 I'll be damned - the memory has worked OK - must be the first time in decades. Like I said - we used to use the 2-piece jack handles to lift the wheel and rotate it. Maybe with the "advanced years" they might be too short?? The old Militant was always my favourite and I took every opportunity to get my hands on them in preference to the RL's and later MK's. Makes me sound a sad old wotsit I know - but I REALLY loved driving them - it was an art form in itself with the crash box, brakes and steering. (Not to mention the chance of seeing the co-driver (if you had one) getting his privy members par-boiled when the top hose went!!!!). Got myself some real crap jobs that way - but somehow the fact of the old Militant being there turned them into fun!! Used to have a whole stack of photos - but when I got married and moved out I don't know where they went. :cry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Grosvenor Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 Thanks Neil and Richard for your replies. I just found the lubrication chart in the hand book :oops: . OC 600 is for the rear hubs. OEP 220 is for front and rear axles. Now I'm totally ignorant when it comes to oil grades ( some would say in other things as well!! ) If I go to our local agricultural dealer and ask for OC 600 would they know what I'm on about? Saying that I think this is discussed somewhere else on here, I'll have a look. Neil, you're totally right about the Militant. It's a great truck to drive and I have to say I prefer it to a more modern car. I'm just so annoyed that I won't be able to get to Duxford with it! Ah well! Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 If I go to our local agricultural dealer and ask for OC 600 would they know what I'm on about? Saying that I think this is discussed somewhere else on here, I'll have a look. Richard, You are right, OC600 will not mean much, unless you get someone who is ex-army maybe. Already covered in a current thread, but it is a Straight 140 gear oil (not to be confused with 140EP, which is not suitable). Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polecat paul Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 If you give Morris oils ltd in Shrewsbury Shropshire a call they'll tell yiou what the equivelent is to the army code Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Grosvenor Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 Thanks Guys, much appreciated :lol: Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Grosvenor Posted June 20, 2006 Author Share Posted June 20, 2006 Well last Thursday I got a chap from a local agricultural dealer to help remove the offending wheel and free off the stuck brake. But "Mally" had different idea's by "showing her teeth" and breaking his wheel brace on the first nut!! He managed to free that brake quite easily, it was only the linkage that was seized. Problem was after a short test run I found the other three rear brakes were locked on!! Oh bugger!!! The mechanic thought it was the air actuators and they needed to be rebuilt. I didn't!! So I have spent the last 5 evenings under the old girl freeing off every linkage, pivot point and bearing on the entire braking system. And after some blood, lots of sweat and the odd tear of anger, not to mention gallons of penetrating oil the old girls brakes are better than they ever have been. And after a really good test drive tonight ( and enjoyable due to quiet roads as everyone seemed to be watching some sporting event on the tely. England United are playing or something!!) I can report that the brakes are now 100%. Regards Richard. Ps. the best stuff I found to free the bits off is a stuff called "Duck Oil" it's brilliant, it's very thin so creeps in and frees everything off really quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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