ruxy

90606422 http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2219/90606422-MASTER-CYL-REPAIR-KIT.html?search=90606422&page=1 ---------- The Girling No. was / is SP2361 , could be S/S by TRW

Actually , the condition of your MC looks quite good external , often the plating strips off the cast iron early. It is probably changed in recent , very recent years. I will find the part number for the recondition seal kit for the MC , this evening. Actually , I have 23HF86 (95105276A) a little newer as Contract FV.22A/87 Item 3 (a Suffix Item is more or less a bolt-on to a main contract). DIS. July 1979 Your brakes are correct for period - 10" all , front + rear .

btw , if your bonnet is original to truck , you have the later windscreen washers from abt. 1980. Engine obviously much earlier manuf. due to side filler pipe. What is your vehicle mil. no. probably something like --HF-- or --HG-- , or chassis No. ? Do you have 10" or 11" front brakes ?? , often axles get swopped and it is a total mix up of parts that are then obviously wrong to application , this also affects front & rear slave cylinder sizes. It would probably best to date the truck as starters.

The MC & reservoir have the appearance of a 569671 , that would be correct on a truck up to approx. manuf. date of June 1980. This would have a Supervac unit using a manual "Test" button on the dash (this is just to check the warning bulb has not blown -Ign on). Obviously non-functional, if it were operative and tests out correct, then if the lamp illuminates - indicates loss of vacuum or loss of fluid in front or rear lines (or both). It should be restored & shuttle valve also tested. Without a operational Supervac , there is still braking , you just press harder LoL . There could be some spongyness , esp. if the footpedal height (from floorplate) is not correctly all set up right from scratch. If you don't have fluid weepage from the bleed at Supervac , then the spongyness is probably by-pass across worn seal set. Hose balloon , possible I suppose , my experience is more the opposite , as hoses deteriorate they restrict and then shut off all fluid flow , first indication is when your brakes start pulling to one side. ----------- A problem is that the cylinder (it is Girling manuf) , you can't identify from the casting No. & the plastic or ally bracelet bench test band is missing. It is possible that it is the wrong MC - such as the one used on a 109" of same period , this had front rear flud compartments the other way fore/aft & pipework thread sizes different way - as warning not to use & cross-pipe ! This is a possibility. --- After abt. June 1980 - there were many changes to brakes , the MC NRC6096 was used , this was also rationalised so as to use on 109" with dual-circuit from same time. This is more or less identified in first blush stage - the reservoir is affixed with two Mills pins ..

First , possibly it would be best if you posted a photograph of the Master cylinder , with the S3 Lightweight - depending on age there are two types of Girling MC depending on vehicle age. There are pattern MC around - I would not use one. You say you are not getting a loss of fluid - from front & rear compartments of the MC ? It is possibly to get fluid loss from the MC , a bad case you would get it running down the pedal box - look for dampness. The Girling Supervac (genuine) at the mounting flange , there is a small drain groove , feel underneath with tissue - check for fluid loss under bolting flanges. Where the MS sockets into the booster can get corroded , so rust can choke up this drain-way - the only check is to remove and examine. You can get seal recon kits , depends if the MC is worth salvage. Basically there are early & late vacuum check , manual or the later auto on ignition start , often these don't work. Doing the standard pedal check , vacumm exhaust - pedal should drop abt. 1" and then be rock solid. ------ Look at the pressing between , pocket for the MC mounting spigot - you will see a very small vee groove impinge (above vacuum switch) - this is the fluid drain if seals are worn.

The common conversion kit was by :- Zeus Engineering March Barton , Exeter. However they went bonk.

Not a tank but interesting photographs http://englishrussia.com/2014/08/20/wartime-truck-emergence/

Think Austin Loadstar , as in Jensen LoL

You should have a nomenclature plate like this , or just 4 holes on bulkhead to right of steering tube. Probably same contract, find chassis No. branded on dumb-iron , thicker plate front spring bolt goes through. From this , the Vehicle No. in form of ??ES?? can be found on "B" vehicle card. Museum of Army Transport . Deepcut Barracks But they charge abt. £30

btw , the bonnet is wrong , it is a De-luxe type , you should have a razor edge. The rear No. plate would have been at the other side (in fact it is a shielded type also used for convoy lamp) The present Reg plate (rear) is covering where the Warner socket would be , the screw on cover is quite heavy so is on chain & retained on the retainer (that is a casting & mounted on a packer plate , or is it two LoL

It is a Series 2a 88" Rover 10 (early - deep sill , headlamps in radiator panel) , manuf. abt 1967 to 1979 , it would have been 12 volt because hardly any 24 volt were made. A Rover 10 (late , very , very ,very rare - shallow sill & headlamps in wing front panels) Not a S2 Rover MK6 or S2a Rover MK8 , the only alternatives. This is because clearly it is a single wiper motor model with Rover 10 demister. The steering wheel is black plastic on cellulose (3 spoke) not the earlier wire spoke..

Badge engineered Prestolite , a Leece-Neville agent will ID

Update on Industrial situation , DIY'ers should also wise up. Unfortunately , I don't believe there are film badge dosimeter for Silica.. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-tayside-central-28427730

http://www.easybranches.eu/european-news/1688281.html http://ftr.wot-news.com/2014/07/22/rare-sherman-lifted-from-barents-sea/

http://englishrussia.com/2014/07/20/tank-lifted-from-the-bottom-of-the-barents-sea/

Wasting time of lots of people , probably their own too ?? I wonder what % of their mail-shots they actually click on, and rip somebody off ?

================== You must be thinking about me , must have about 20 qty. of the expensive Grandsfors Bruk , Hultafors, Wetterlings , Husqvarna & the odd Cold Steel - Trail Boss ,before I add up the cheaper German Muller , before getting to Wilkinson Sword LoL

One shell is clearly sliced lengthways down the middle - training aid ??

UPDATE , just a hobby , thats OK then http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2694733/Police-uncover-armoury-firearms-weapons-including-5ft-long-MISSILE-pensioners-home.html

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2694733/Police-uncover-armoury-firearms-weapons-including-5ft-long-MISSILE-pensioners-home.html

LoL DIY death in one thousand years !

And Finally , IMHO If you spend your 14 days summer holiday , inside or preferably in the open-air of your garden , 8 hours per day DIY sand-blasting with B&Q kiln dried patio slab gap-filler ,, The FINAL choice is all yours LoL http://www.gulflink.osd.mil/particulate_final/particulate_final_s06.htm

http://www.gulflink.osd.mil/pm/pm_refs/n38en042/120396_sep96_decls12_0001.html

The most basic LEV test for a cabinet door dust seal to workplace would be to use the so called "Tyndall Lamp" . Regarding silica sand , protection for employees in workplace - does your garage / shed come under such as Machinery & COSHH Regulations. So , if you are crossing a middle-east desert and get caught in a sand storm , same dangerous sand , in fact the finer ends often cover your car in the UK LoL Then you would just use your "shemagh" - I don't think the arabs are walking around with a Sundström protective mask , so where are all the statistics quoted for respiratory silicosis deaths due to the force of nature ?? All those cheapo blasting cabinets & pressure vessels dumped by the container load , will have caused far,far more industrial Silicosis deaths in China.