ruxy
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Posts posted by ruxy
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Last week I purchased 2 qty. 8" x8" x 8ft. tanalized gate posts , checking the bill - they cost £ 67.43 + VAT . That is before digging the holes and mixing the concrete. Fortunately I get free delivery on orders over £50. They are still wet , so hiding behind the Sankey park until half the weight, then son 1 & I can carry them to the rear. Gates - the criteria is identical to yours - undecided in detail - as yet. I will probably weld up a pair of bi-parting RSA frames and clad with zinc coated sheet but then clad with timber so as not to fall-out with neighbour. The adj. impregnable hedging - I keep at 6ft.
Problems started when I upgraded the rear access from grass to 20mm crushed limestone last year , then I get the SatNav idiots making a main road turn too early , the greater threat is, I have observed four different Ford transits belonging metal collectors ,noted the Reg. off the security cameras , Swansea check = unidentified !!Insert other media
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The insulation between sockets has always just been a bit of glorified cardboard. Most people fit a in-line fuse holder.
ISTR on a FFR , the services are in fact 12 volt ?
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Stainton , from what I remember , they all had a few , what I recall is red squares and white lettering.
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It may pay you to have a drive around Stainton Grove Camp & Streatlam / Barford Camp , although much demolished & remaining new or gentrified as Trading Estate or is it Business Park. I doubt if any WW2 / Korea era signage remains at Deerbolt Camp but you would need a get into prison card there.
Hardly anything period remains at Gallowfield Ind.Estate at Richmond , that was interesting as the bricks were laid wrong way to get more yardage. Outlying Barracks etc. at Catterick that had just stood from abt. 1970 were dropped around 1995.
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For a BIG job 2L + then OB Primer is the stuff
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I am defo. interested in the panels - provided they are a quality thermo-set plastic (that can have a art-deco feel to it) , however not if a cheap thermo plastic - they may be a Chinese knock-off
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I doubt if any such treasure will be found in Poland , anybody who has read the (part fiction) book by Trevor Ravenscroft - The Spear of Destiny etc. will know that even an ancient Polish church altar was taken back to Germany and hidden with the 'lance' supposedly of more value to Hitler than any amount of gold ? It seems the highest value items were hidden with best security / secrecy by Himmler's SS below Nuremberg Fortress within medieval tunnels and using a air-conditioned (stand-by diesel generators) + bank type vault doors.
A well hidden entry blown open by a US aerial bomb and thus exposed to US troops.
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I rate Bonda Primer better than such as Hammerite No.1 (that I believe is Corroless glass flake technology). Being Rustins , I used to easily find it at DIY places among their shelf products - Danish Oil etc. etc. I need some just now for a relatively small brush job & can't find it locally - seems I will have to order on-line. At least it seems still available in 1L size , not the now common 750ml. Rustins also do a anti-corrosive metal primer in grey , I suspect this is NOT the same recipe as their 'Bonda'
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On 7/28/2019 at 9:48 PM, paul connor said:
I guess any show has a bad egg. Even Normandy 2019 was dampened for me a touch by camping near some people who assumed a WW2 event means you can wear desert 95s and drive a fictional 109 Land Rover WMIK fantasy piece and a GS Land Rover with more aerials that GCHQ and less radios than an indigenous tribe in the Congo, vocally despise "foreigners", in France and get upset why their Land Rovers cannot participate in a WW2 vehicle run? Reminds me of the caravans and best of Ford Van's displays at modern war and peace. I brought a military radio to display, and two RVs and a caravan!
I digress, but rules are rules. No Tax/MOT/insurance no movements on site! Simple as that. Enforce it, or potentially lose it all, that includes the show.
QUOTE - the line , and drive a fictional 109 Land Rover WMIK fantasy piece and a GS Land Rover with more aerials that GCHQ and less radios than an indigenous tribe in the Congo,
The above I did enjoy for comedy content 10/10
However - I do know the complexity to the FFR kit newcomer , what with TUAAM , Balun - getting the time line absolute correct (early Mk.) Base ANTENNA support , or second choice Base Aerial Support , will I ever need a ARFAT (better get one just in case as very cheap) , consulting loads of User Handbooks / Supplements - all at a total great £ . All the cables needed / obtaining - a minefield. Then the decision , just what radio set(s) to go for - for a Lightweight Unitary Kit. Not forgetting that I have a same but Larkspur project.
In short - I can see how lots of show trucks have min. 4 qty. antenna but keep the hood locked down. I would estimate probably 90% of these LR enthusiasts never get to a fully kitted and all correct rig. Of course the few who have won the struggle probably don't ever win a cup because they don't have a KERR wrapped to the front bumperettes !
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There are a few subset of the - synthetic alkyd-type resin paint (that requires xylene). Factory finished is always stoved, these pushed out cellulose finishes , now most synthetics are pushed out by aqua industrial finishes. Without stoving they take at least 1 month to through dry. A LR engine hardly get hot enough to warrant a higher grade engine laquer. With the right amount of xylene thinners you can get a long working time that levels out brush marks and at same time get a good wet/dry film thickness. Even the right stuff in a rattle can will be very thin dft and that can cause lift. If you try a few coats then they can just react against each other and that results in failure.
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It seems you had Sky mixed for rattle can - I doubt if the paint is suitable.
You need thorough degrease prior to paint, the way paint is leaving the alloy rocker cover - seems like oil contamination. How sound is the paint on the CI block ?
Awkward to strip & paint with engine in situ. Takes time but I have cleaned off crud and painted by hand (using a school type round- white bristle artists brush - abt. 10mm dia.).
I would brush some standard cellulose thinners on the paint & see if it is easy to lift , if it is then continue to remove.
What you need is a can of self-priming "Machinery Enamel" (such as Tractol 329 single-pack) that is oil resistant when through dry (keep diesel off for 1 month). Engines out - I use a small stray gun - bit bigger than a air-brush , thinned with synthetic or a bit of cellulose.
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15 hours ago, tankdiver said:
I read somewhere that when we sent the Spitfire to Russia they put lumps of lead in there tanks to replace the Tetro ethyle -lead on 5 star fuel .I go and get Lead substitute from Halfords as well as using those Lead beads that are advertised on ebay on a wire dropped in the tank Modern petrol stings if you get it on skin and is not volatile as it use to be more like parafin
I think you will find all these claims of sponge lead within petrol tanks is totally untrue. Marketed over many years with similar claims , ISTR proven untrue. Much on vehicle forums several + years ago, IIRC much repeated hearsay - a invention of a RAF artificer & somebody queried the 'named person' and asked for his service Number with the authorities - he could not be paraded.
I think you will find that the 100 octane type 'synthetic' stuff was produced at two sites within the UK from hydrogenerated coal , one being at ICI Billingham Works (that my feet trampled over late 1970's / 1980's) and the other was at a similar Shell managed (but government owned) works in Lancashire. These supplies were probably sufficient but were added to by tankers from across the pond. I would have to check - I think the stocks were also added to by a link between Carless Capel & Leonard and the Coalite , Bolsover works.
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Eugene Houndry's Process - yet another "secret" process claim ??
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The Ashford tank did internally mutate a sub-station !
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A interesting subject I have followed for years , it seems a case of the more you get to know - the more you don't know.
My old man used Cleveland Discol and I think I must have done for a while after I passed my test (1967).
Alcohol - was a great thing , you did not hear of problems. So why the problem with MODERN ethanol (btw - I don't doubt the present so called petrol(s) are rubbish) I suppose Tet. Lead did prevent valve seat regression , it is all this about damage to .die-cast carb. bodies , metal pipes, rubber hoses, metal fuel tanks - that I just don't get , you did not know of these problems in 1950's / 1960's.
Walker (Jonnie Walker family) and the Distillers Co. seemed to be the UK (Scottish) pioneers of this MODERN fuel - pre-WW2 !
Google on Cleveland Discol , plenty of info.
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16 hours ago, Surveyor said:
Can I ask if this includes aircraft?
I was recently reliably informed all the remaining bits of aircraft have been removed from the training strip at Otterburn / Redesdale Ranges.
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Did you crank the starter with plugs out ? A caring previous owner , if he knew he was laying it up for years could have squirted oil through the plug holes and cranked it over (some stick a rag up the tail-pipe to stop damp air entering). Alternatively he may have choked it down with RedeX down the carburettor , I tend to use outboard motor winterizing fluid down - if any of this has been done , then you will get back-firing on start up & oiled plugs (I have blown rusty silencer boxes apart). If such procedures have been done , after ignition and fueling checks - then I would be thinking - sticking valve(s).
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All very commendable , however I am of the belief a Training Area / Range should have remaining a bit of history , ambience and of correct MOD appearance - not a stripped and sterile acreage. Grump , grump. grump grum
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Is the branding height correct ? Does the font look time-line correct to WW2 Ford ? The font does look period rather than modernish , however - not a problem off eBay.
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https://www.screwfix.com/p/laser-ht-lead-ignition-spark-plug-testers-4-pack/61411
Even with screened HT wires (if you have them) there are ways to connect these to see if you have good healthy delivery to plugs, problem is you will have to buy two packs = £20 , or do the tests in two stages . Used at dawn/dusk and it should be like Blackpool under-bonnet ..
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£ potentially cheap - to the right person , like rubber tyre salesmen , location , location , location
https://www.hoseasons.co.uk/cottages/the-railway-carriage-uk11316
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6 hours ago, Minesweeper said:
Well, I made a meal out of identifying this thread and thanks to all for their input - Ruxy, you were right all the time with the BSB identification and why didn't I think of that one? Emma (Cornish Made), thank your dad for his memory of it when he did the Cornish Peerless all those years ago!
So now, we plough on again!
Tony
My first thoughts were a "Sellers" thread , however after consulting Zeus and other sources ,,
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S.F. (French thread)
8mm nom. = 1mm pitch , 60 degree
This may give a clash with modern metric.
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Don't fall into the trap of using Moore & $hite thread gauges - just place two of same from a pair of bunches against each other - you will see what I mean. PITA , but I always double-check longhand using a Stanley knife blade.
Starrett gauges are much more reliable.
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25 tpi is very near to 26 tpi , don't forget CEI - as opposed to BSC that is also 26 tpi
CEI (Cycle Engineers Institute)
Churchill tank hull recovered from the South Downs, Sussex
in Tracked vehicles
Posted
I very much agree , at least it was 'real' living history , removal just makes the countryside less WW2 and more boring , all too green..