N.O.S.

Thanks very much for that. The quality of the picture is just stunning - looking forward to perusing the site. Tony

You don't yet know just how useful that pic is, Weasel!:tup:: Could you please let me know what site that image is from, looks like a modern pic to me so might be the restored French trailer?

I would expect a 24V jeep starter to have a power rating roughly the same as a 6V one, so the current draw at 24V should be a lot less, but I guess in reality the 24V motor spins a lot quicker so drawing more power, thus current may not be a lot different?

Several French and Belgian hauliers converted Autocars with big diesels, one even effectively building "new" trucks using mainly Autocar components. This looks like such a beastie.

Don't batteries usually just give you the Ampere-Hour rating (Ah)? A 12V battery with a 80 Ah rating will give you 80 hours at 1 amp or 40 hours at 2 amps etc. A bigger capacity battery may not give you any higher maximum current capacity but will crank the same motor over for longer. The current is determined by the load (i.e. starter motor) subject to the battery being physically capable of delivering that current. If the current capacity of the battery is low it might not turn the motor as quickly as a high capacity battery. I now only use the Optima spiral cell type, which seems to give about 20% higher max. current capacity, so it will crank an engine over a lot quicker which can make the difference between starting or not, especially with diesels! Because a low current capacity battery will crank a motor slower than a high capacity one will. My GMC and Jeep 6V batteries are only 50Ah but will spin the engines over much quicker than a heavy duty 6V conventional battery of greater Ah capacity. Another advantage is you get less voltage drop - my jimmy used to have only 3V at the coil when cranking :shake: Mind you, it still started :-D And the 6V ones are only 1/2 the size of a standard 6V battery! For heavy duty 24V applications, using two 56 Ah 12V batteries (112Ah total) to replace two conventional 140 Ah ones (280Ah total) still gives much faster cranking speed (if the engine starts instantly you dont need the extra Ah 'cos you are not cranking the engine for anywhere near the same length of time, so you never drain them). But they do come at a price. Back to your problem, sounds like the batteries are simply tired, and need changing. With batteries you usually get what you pay for - a cheap battery will tend to have less lead and often of a much lower quality, so may last little time compared to something heavy and expensive :cool2: Sorry just changed some of this 'cos it was scribble - hope it makes more sense now!

I couldn't go this year :cry:, but a friend snapped this lovely close-up, the Yank mag is a nice touch (and all the better for having a steam engine smokebox on the front cover!).

That was a very respectful thing to do :tup:: Care to explain how you came to do this thoughtful deed?

The us44.fr site has now (only in the last few days)officially disappeared, not to return.

She's looking good John, just like your workshop (envy envy). Judging by the number of doors, it looks like you've got room for one more, besides the "T" and the '42 Chevy? Keep the pics coming!

Let's make it at least a howitzer - 5.5! Cheque for one veteran in post. Tony

I'm not aware of any advert Paul, but possibly it is the same one. Do you have any details? www.us44.fr is the website - look at bottom left on site index , details were posted in 2006, but the photographs do not appear to be accessible any more, I've tried on several computers. If anyone can see them, please post here! Yes, I saw the advert on Army Cars USA - it looked really tidy and with a dolly, shame it ws in USA. And would probably have cost £9,000 plus with shipping :shake:

Bodge and Jessie - reckon your squares are just too neat - look at these two pics! (somewhere in England)

So are you thinking damage might be caused by excess fuel washing lubrication off cylinder walls? I'd have thought with an engine that size it might cause a bit of black smoke, but of course black smoke is your trademark CW, so guess it might have gone un-noticed? :-D:-D:-D Good luck with the race to the fuel pontoon

No problem. I'll tell the other 14 anxious people you have an option on it :-D Another option might be for you to come down and cut out whatever sections you need if this would help - e.g. the centre locker and lid, although needing a new lower section and floor, could save a bit of time and could be shoved into a car along with side locker and other bits?

Glad they were able to help you - I was not expecting that though!! What a result They have always been very helpful to us over the years. A pleasure to deal with people who actually have a pride in their products! I take it you won't be needing the rear body?

Brilliant pic, Les! Can you tell me where it came from please? Keep them coming folks, big thanks!

Sorry Tony, no idea. It is 3" dia. x 8" long. But note the date is JUNI 1917, what country uses JUNI for JUNE?

As a rough guide, the U.S. WW2 trailer is 4,000 gallons i.e. 18,000 odd litres or about 18 tonnes of fuel. (Plus a tonne and a half of pumps, engine and hose reels). A modern trailer would have a payload of some 26 tonnes or 26,000 lires or 5,700 odd gallons.

Re. Clive's video footage link - this site is regarded by my pc security suite as being in the same league as multimap and hmvftv, i.e. I can't see it :argh:. Tried all sorts, still nothing. What am I missing out on please? Is it what I think it is? :cool2:

I recently met a U.S. mechanic veteran who was at Poddington and a couple of other bases. I made the mistake of mentioning Studebaker licence-built engines..... After he'd calmed down a little, he told me they always got really fed up when they saw the Studebaker crate coming out, as they knew it would not be long before they had to do yet another engine change! He reckoned they just did not compare to the real thing and many lasted only a few hours. Kept muttering something about tolerances and quality. But better than nothing I guess.

Stormin - has that pump impeller lost a fair bit of meat off the vanes?

Here's one Jack - a 3" (or 76.2mm) shell case brought back by my mother's uncle from the war. Dated 1917, decorated with a basket of flowers - probably a typical subject. Photos taken through opaque paper to reduce glare from a long-overdue polish (thanks for the timely kick up the rear!).

I saw 2 trailer mounted guns, one fully restored, in Derbyshire (I think it was near Bakewell, and I only think they were 40mm Bofors 'cos I didn't really know what I was looking at). They are at a farm where a chap kept his GMC - I went to buy his No.7 set a year or so back. Sorry I can't be more precise, but perhaps this will ring a bell with some Midlands members?

There are two types of bar tread tyres - the relatively flat tread one (e..g. Bedford Mk - Goodyear), and the profile with rounded shoulders (e.g. Omaha, as seen on post war Reo trucks etc.). My question is - was the rounded profile used in WW2? It never ceases to amaze me how little I know.

As an old Norfolk boy once said, when searching for a phrase to indicate it didn't really matter which way it was - "Tha's all imperial ter me, bor!"