N.O.S.

I left work on a dark cold Decmber night with almost zero visibility in freezing fog. Down the B road I passed a police car protecting an abandoned crashed car partly blocking the road. About 1/3 mile further I came across a black bin bag in the road with a shoulder and arm sticking out - the hand was missing :shake: At this point my imagination started working overtime, and I decided not to get out to look further:shake: I turned around and drove bak to plod who said he could not leave the car but would radio in for help. I turn around and set off for home. I drove cautiously past the sinister bag. Another 1/3 mile along I came across another bag in the road - oh heck, this one had a head poking out :shake: I stopped by it and contemplated what might have happened to the victim. It then dawned on me that the person had very large ears :shake: It then dawned on me that the ears were very bristley and pointed :shocked: It then dawned on me that it was a pig's head :embarrassed: So I drove back to plod and gave him the good news. He was pretty relieved as once I had left him all alone the first time he had started to get rattled too - it was just one of those really spooky nights.........:sweat:

OK,OK - just found your pic of Warton as I worked through recent posts. Thanks!

What a great picture :tup:: Can you identify the location or bomb group from the source?

I wonder what they think about some of the stuff on here then.......:-D Do you realise that one of the 39,500,000 image hits on google for a certain greasy sailor-loving model will be attributed to HMVF? I went through the first 75 without finding it but got a bit distracted....

I agree with you there, Tim. The author describes the efforts in a 'once removed', and at times even critical (when appropriate) way, but it must be the most realistic review of the operations I have come across. The conclusing paragraph gives a chilling view on what might have been avoided had things been even better organised..... Ignore the page quantity - this book packs more into 80 pages than you could imagine :readbook: :thumbsup:

Make sure you get the English version, not the original French!! That ISBN number is from the back of my English one.

Here's a great book for lovers of the wooden crate and jerrycan in bulk! I was put on to it by the helpful guys at 514th QM Truck Regt www.514th.co.uk It describes the amazing achievements following D Day to get supplies to the front line. Efficient use of words, leaving plenty of room for the wonderful selection of pictures ISBN 2-912925-36-3 20 Euros :yay::yay:

I've standardised on the heavy duty HELLA ones which are also excellent quality and good value, if a bit large. From truck components / auto elec suppliers. Having said that the jimmy one is still a Lucas red plastic key jobbie!

CW - am I correct in thinking we're looking at elctrolysis corrosion there, rather than cavitation damage? I suppose any cavitation damage might encourage more electrolysis corrosion....

Just been reading this thread as a result of the recent question 'which side to put the switch on a landrover'. I had the same problem with a jeep, in good electrical order - had to bypass the isolator switch in the end. I measured quite a voltage drop over the new switch. GMC is fine with same switch on +ve side. Now - is this possibly more of a problem when the switch goes on the +ve side I wonder? Perhaps if the isolator is on -ve side of battery the voltage drop might not affect the starter so much due to the already significant drop through the starter....?? :confused::confused::confused:

Not yet - she's just about to give CW a good scrub down.

From the book "HILLS OF BOTLEY" we find that TOT297 was first registered by Hills 1958 and was ex military, with what looks like a Hills built body. There is a lovely colour shot of it too, maroon body/cab with crimson bonnet. Fitted with a 680. They had another with standard body called 'Tiny Tot' being used in early '60s. Back to the Paris Hilton memoirs...

:tup:: It makes a little more sense now. Good luck with it. Tony

That link doesn't seem to work now, try googling 'matching propellor to engine' and hit a Cat site that comes up a few down. Only seems accessible via google (?)

Just googled matching propellor to engine, and found this on the Caterpiller marine site: www.marine.cat.com/cda/files/949240/7/Propellor%20Sizing.pdf Talks around the tricky subject of matching the prop to engine power available, looks like there will be some more interesting stuff on there. Have you jacked up the power output from the original set-up, CW? Here is an extract from the above: 3. "I want more power." If you want to re-engine your boat to increase power and speed, chances are, you’ll need to increase the size (blade area) of the propeller. A prop can only absorb and distribute the power it was designed to handle. For example, if you increase horsepower 50 percent, you’ll probably have to increase blade area 10-15 percent, or cavitation may result. Cavitation is the creation of water bubbles against the propeller blades when it is asked to absorb more than its designed power. This leads to pitting and wear. Ultimately, the propeller won’t be able to demand the amount of power needed (or desired) and the boat will perform poorly.

Welcome, Roberto! That is a fun looking jeep! The arrival of your undoubted artistic abilities brings the possibility of a long mural of members' vehicles in the Clubhouse bar ever closer. Enjoy.

Here we go 6x6 - best I can get them I'm afraid. The first shows the broken telegraph pole. Note that some pics of M.O.S. outfits show tanks in transit covered by sheeting.

The one about the fish? :cool2:

Hi Thor, I'm sure a warm formal welcome awaits you in the clubhouse. I believe that it is now mandatory for incoming Explorer owners to "adopt" a WW2 (or earlier) vehicle type (of your own choice) and to study this in detail, said vehicle also to be the subject matter of at least 10% of your posts.

From www.paxmanhistory.org.uk (see 'regulateurs europa') comes the following: Engine governing is, of course, much more sophisticated than the above introduction may suggest. For instance in a turbocharged diesel the rate at which fuelling is increased during acceleration needs to be controlled. When accelerating there is a time lag between the injection of additional fuel and the turbocharger(s) increasing speed and charge air boost pressure. If too much extra fuel is injected before there is sufficient additional air to ensure its full combustion the results are emission of partially burnt fuel (in the form of smoke), fuel wastage, and potential engine damage. A properly designed governor will limit the rate of increased fuel injection to match the air available for combustion. This is just one example of the various refinements incorporated in modern governors. I've highlighted a bit that I hadn't really appreciated before. Some interesting stuff on this site.

That's it then, a flying fish stuck in the air intake pipe.... Invoice is in the post.

But didn't you do the fuel metering tests and found no significant difference? :confused: Surely the engine governor will push fuel in until the speed matches the demand and then find a balance. In which case the only way you get too much smoke (from all cylinders) is if the engine is struggling to make the power output asked of it. So is one cylinder still overfuelling? You have got the normal constant speed governors and nothing fancy? And of course you checked the air filters - DIDN'T YOU CW? :whistle:

Unfortunately I only have a poor photocopy of the article, and it really isn't worth the bother of scanning them (which for me is not a 5 minute job currently). If anyone has the mag please oblige, if not I'll have a go maybe later.

Have you been following the comments about powder coating on 'Electroplating Fuel Tank' thread, Rick?