Ron

Have you got mine Steve?  Ron

Steve there were 1500 canceled from the last contract and they were probably already built and painted to WO spec. But good idea to use a proven frame. Ron

I have nothing! Any chance or an overall picture of the whole set up please. I'll look for tell tale bracket holes and such. Mine was a wreck. Do we know each other somehow?

Ron

Yes I think a slim nut would be a better option and feed the stud through from the other side to get the nut started.

There ar 4 little TERRY clips down the side of the rear mudguard that holds the cable. They are available from Draganfly in SS. I just paint them black.

I'm intrigued about the 2 pounder cable! Mine hasn't got one.....(Yet???) please explain about it.

Cheers Ron 

Anyway, I was looking at that last picture I posted last night and it looked like the rack was leaning back? Needless to say I couldn't sleep properly and was up at Sparrow's fart this morning to investigate.

By comparing with my 3SW, I discovered that the 3HW mudguard is sited about 1 1/2" further back than the 'S' models (bugger!)

But it didn't take long to work out that the mudguard can be swiveled forward by re-drilling the two holes for the saddle clamp that holds the mudguard to the cross tube under the saddle.

While I've been working on it, I also noticed a wobble in the rear wheel, which turned out to be, not the wheel but a badly molded Mitas tyre. Fortunately I had a new tyre in stock which I fitted and it's running true now.   Ron  

Thanks Rik. Shame there are no frame/engine numbers for contract C8575.

Despite the records being lost, sometimes there is a chink of light. Like the chap who had his Dad or Granddad's army records/log books/diary with chapter and verse on the 3SW that he was issued. I was able to work out the frame and engine numbers for contract C4631, which I have relayed to Chris Orchard for inclusion in the next issue. Ron

What angle do you need it? Is it to do with how close the stud/nut is to the HT cable?  Ron

I've got the stays and rack fitted now. A bit of filing to slot the holes for a bit of wiggle room and get the mudguard central to the tyre. Some more primer next and remove the wheel for proper fitting after it's painted. Ron

Yes it is the problem I was referring to. The 850 gaps in the 5SW frame numbers and lost records, which doesn't help to ID it as a 3SW or 5SW.  But it's definitely not a 3HW. So you have three choices. .....As is or 3S or 5S. Ron

Typing together again Phil!

I communicate with Peter Long at Cornucopia on occasions and this is the email he uses when he contacts me.   info@cornucopia-enterprises.de

Ron

Indeed it is another forum member who is making the parts that I showed in a previous post in this thread, and it was my own original carrier that was used as the pattern. Very complicated to make. Ron

I stand educated about the rear frame stamp Jenk. I'm fairly sure that the pre-war civy bikes just had a repeat of the frame number. My own 3SW from an earlier contract C6128 has the repeated frame number and my 5SW has nothing at all.

 I gave Phil the contact details for both Edwin and Jork who run the WD Triumph register, in case they have spare engines or knowledge of parts! 

We know that the rear stays and carriers are available and I figured that my 3HW carrier and pannier frames (If I want to sell them) would easily even out the cost.  Ron

I must admit I much prefer the benefit of panniers, as I always like to carry plenty of tools, spare cables/plugs etc. Not to mention, waterproofs, flask of coffee and egg sandwich. But I've got other bikes which I use for more.....Shall I say touring purposes! 

Maybe just restore it as it is and deal with it as a proper factory spec restoration at a later date when you've acquired the correct parts. Ron

PS the 5SW had different gear ratios to the 3S/3H but it doesn't seem to matter much which box is fitted. When I first got my 5SW it was revving itself to death at 35mph. I soon discovered it was fitted with a 17T engine sprocket instead of its intended 20T. So I bought a 20T blank and had it professionally welded to my old sprocket hub.........Only to later find it's the same sprocket as fitted to lots of BSA's and cheap as chips...Doh!  Ron 

Well as I said, http://www.cornucopia-enterprises.de/spares-triumph.html has parts. 

I fitted my new stays up yesterday with temporary bolts and have started replacing each bolt in turn with a shallow head button steel rivet. I haven't got the equipment to form the rivets properly so I'm simply mig welding them on the inside. 

Here is the original field stand with clamp that I acquired, and my 3SW which is identical in every respect apart from the engine. Ron 

Ah we were typing together there Phil. Your field stand and holding clip are off an M20. For future reference, this is the correct clamp. I do have a spare Triumph pole and Cornucopia might still have some correct Triumph spring clips.

And we do have a sorce for the correct stays and luggage rack if you want to take that route. Which is what I'm doing at the moment.

If you don't mind me sharing this thread Phil? I'll continue with a few pix as I go. Ron 

Chaps as far as I've seen, the bikes built at Coventry didn't have a date stamp under the saddle! They were either bare or a repeat of the frame number, which is what Phil's has. I might be wrong but I think the date stamp started with the 3HW. From the few other pictures of Phil's bike that I've seen, it does have the correct Triumph (not Webb) forks, ally primary case and 8" headlamp.

It would be nice if a 5SW engine could be found for this bike. I'm in fairly regular contact with all the other known 5SW owners and one more would be great. BTW 5SW engines never had the W stamp. I guess they were just some left over civy engines that were  fitted in an attempt at hurriedly re-equipping after Dunkirk.

The prop stand with clamp is shown in the 5SW parts list (same as 3SW). My clip lug was missing, presumably ground off, during its post war civilian life.

So far this is the only period picture I've found that is definitely a 5SW.  Ron 

Well keep it coming with pictures Phil!

Currently I've got mine on the bench as I'm converting it back from 3HW panniers to original stays and luggage rack. Ron

I had an email about this bike earlier today. Here is my response:-

 Yes the frame number falls within the 5SW contract but with nearly 850 gaps in the frame numbers it's difficult to be certain. What I have worked out from the few 5SW's on the register (mine included) is that all the ones that seem to have their original engines, the engine number is exactly 13567 from the frame number.  So there must have been some sequence for some of them?

Edit:- Jenk if memory serves, There are only about 7-8 genuine WD 5S's on the register so far.

Ron

I just checked my 39 parts list and you are right, they have different part numbers for the 350 flywheels 3S & 3SE are the same but they all share the same main shafts. The WD 3SW and 3HW use the same flywheels as the 3S and 3SE. I can only think that there might be different weights to the flywheels to do with performance. 

Brian Tillin (Swanage) is the Triumph singles guy. I'd speak to him about the problem. PM me if you want his contact details.

Ron 

I'm pretty sure they are the same but I'll check pre-war parts list tomorrow. But what is wrong with your original that can't be fixed?  Ron 

Steve can you PM or email me please. I want to ask you something about early W/NG's.  

Cheers Ron

Ha Ha We call that a "bulb"  (it's a bulb horn)  I guess pear and bulb are the same shape👍 Ron

PS. Yes original Rexene saddle covers are hard to find

5 minutes ago, military james said:

I even had the trunk with a pear hs, I did not know, I threw it away, it was twenty years ago

You've lost me with this one Thierry. Please explain "pear hs"   Ron☺️

The fasteners were 26tpi BSCyc. (1/4" of course is the same as BSF). It's why I mentioned http://www.nookysnuts.com/ the other day. His British made "Cycle thread" nuts and bolts have plane tops and a bearing side to the nuts. Zinc plated which is a bit shinier and not as hard wearing as cad. But with some very gentle grit blasting, can be dulled down nicely.  Ron