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Posts posted by Ron
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Well done Lex. It's very satisfying when you achieve such a repair.......And what can you do with your afternoons at the moment anyway? Ron
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Lex there's just a simple wire pivot on the toolbox lid as you can see. You will need to 'unwind' the 'hasps' on both ends of the wire to remove it. Or maybe the one in the middle? I've never tried (never really needed to) it could end in tears. Having said that, it's probably dead easy? Ron
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That's strange that the float cap was stuck! I'm positive I took it off "cold" to check for spiders nest and check the float?
From memory, I don't think you can fit these carbs complete with flame trap with the tool box in place. I think you can fit the flame trap afterwards by removing the circlip first then install the circlip afterwards. .....But I guess you need to find a better toolbox catch anyway? Ron
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Good job! Very well done that man👍 Ron
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All the horn would be painted, although sometimes I leave the middle dome nut in bare brass......Because it's rebellious.
My trick with mat paint and after it's all dried hard and the markings and transfers are done. I spray over the whole bike with WD40 and a soft cloth. The WD40 dries off quite quickly but seems to soak in and leave a slight sheen. I repeat the operation after the bike has got shitty and requires a wash. Ron
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Hi Tom
Maybe your transfers where old? Or the weather was cold? But generally I don't have much problem with transfers from https://classictransfers.co.uk/
Even to the point of fitting them to the double curvature of a motorcycle tank. Then some clear lacquer when they're dry.
Ron
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It's trial and error mate! I've been doing it for much longer than you've been alive....and I still cock it up. There's a a balance between getting the paint on heavy enough so that it flows out level, but not so heavy that it runs. Some of this mat paint will also dry too shiny if over coated too much. Ron
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The flattening back with fine paper works on shiny paint where you can then polish it, not sure it can work on mat. I'd simply flat it back with 320 and respray it. Been there lots of times.Ron
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You might as well order some 18 thou spark plug gaps while you're on the phone. Ron
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I've been speaking to Mike A (Wimborne) about this bike. It's part of a batch of 'Impressed' AJS models. I have a copy of the parts list that covers all the models including their frame and engine numbers. Other than that I doubt you'll ever know any of it's war-time activities. I have worked on a couple of others for a friend. Here is an original picture of one. Ron (Poole)
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No Ariel W/NG would have left the factory painted black. Anything could have happened over the last 78 years. It could have been stripped and repainted several times by now. Ron
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I've done an awful lot of stripping with my angle grinders and rope/wire wheels.
Ron
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Definitely solid copper for me. You can also use it over again and again by simply annealing it. Ron
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Yep Steve is right. Copper down as it says in the maintenance manual. Ron
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Ferg is living a long way south of his comfort and fried, battered Mars bar zone! A good old English cricket bat up the kilt will often subdue these Kelts the noo! 🏏
No Kill switch Tom, just the valve lift lever!
I can't talk really........I'm from Froggy heritage. Ron De St-Pierre😏
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Royal Enfield ......Rare find No. 2 (really No.3)
in Motorcycles
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Me too! Currently restoring a Lucas PLC5 switch for my 39 C10. Ron