Ron

I'm not aware of any revitalization preparation for Rexene? I'd probably just rub black boot polish in to try and disguise the canvas showing through.

Yep I'm quite sure the Flea and ML used the same Mansfield saddle. Ron

Well the seat frame on mine is black but in view of the way James seemed to spray nearly everything. I'd say it should be service colour. If you compare the blackout mask on this picture with what you can see of the saddle frame....It's definitely different.(so not black to my eyes).

 I think the saddles and cover were made by Mansfield, which is academic really. It's just a case of finding the best Rexene (good luck) or look alike around.  Ron   

Unfortunately the 3HW parts list is only partially illustrated. The 3HW shares the same frame as the 3/5SW's and its pre-war predecessors. (forks are different). The 1939 parts list has this illustration but they use the same drawing for both the light and heavy weight bikes.....So probably not much help. 

There is a plastic kit on the market.  Ron

Steve I think you'll find that is the timing mark. There should be a corresponding line on the brass magneto drum. But don't rely on the marks as your mag might have come off another model over the years.  Ron  

On 5/27/2020 at 9:13 PM, flyingfleasteve said:

 

I am furiously looking for the correct decompression lever so I can start piecing together the handle bar set up, but the search continues.....

 

Before I found my original decompressor I bought a similar looking trigger which I filed to shape, and handlebar clamp and started to make a reasonable look alike. (It's slightly bigger than a genuine James lever)  I can't remember what I paid for the parts but if it's any good as a temp? ......A tenner plus post. Ron

Steve from the center line of the bolts to the center tip of the mudguard on mine is 6 1/4".  

Ron

I had a standard Amal lever on mine till I found a correct James decompresser lever. Ron

Fortunately for me, the OD paint on my NOS ML headlamp was in perfect condition and a near match to the OD I used for the bike. I often wondered what the stenciling meant? And what is the white dot with broken blue line for?? Ron 

Well if you're on old fashioned hard rubber tyres, it might be best to refer to the riders handbook (makers recommendations).

Ron

I presume you are running on modern soft tyres. I run mine at 28F and 30R. I'd up the pressures a bit for a pillion to say 30-32.

Ron 

Dave the extra length to the mudguards, the center stand and non folding foot rests are also part of its civilianization. I think it would be nice to follow the guidelines on here:-   http://simplywizard.co.uk/folders/level3/ml.htm (Shiny Black or Maroon) with correct transfers from https://classictransfers.co.uk/ and enjoy the restoration and do justice to those wet and cold days on your paper round. Ron 

Uh Oh! Personally I couldn't cope with fitting the wrong size wheels/tyre. They might look odd in their mudguards too. I'd approach someone like Brickwood or Willis Wheels and see if they will give a small allowance on those rims and spokes, which are still effectively new and can easily be used again. Ron 

You forgot to put the price Chris.  Ron

Mine have screws and nuts which came with the bike and is what's shown in the parts list.  Ron

Hi Steve.

I can see that your center stand is post war. It needs to be converted like this.

Basically just move the bottom rung up and turn the feet from 'T' to 'L'.  Ron

Dave the last frame number issued to the WO was 8500. There was an additional 1500 from the last contract that were canceled which still only take the frame numbers to 10,000. But I believe the ML continued being supplied to the civilian market (with civy amendments) till 1948.  Ron

I've sent you a PM and follow up email but had nothing back so far??  Ron 

It must be Steve. They wouldn't expect you to strip the mudguard to fix a tyre in the field. Ron

You're lucky to have everything so original. A lot of mine had to be fabricated and it's been a work in progress for many years.  We might have to take this into another section of the forum or maybe better by PM. Ron

Steve I expect a lot of 'A' suffixes were applied post war as the model continued till 1948 I beleive for the civy market and a lot of WD parts were dropped.  Ron 

Ah OK. I thought they looked like fork links from where I'm sitting.

The top yoke (bottom right in your picture of parts) Is it stamped ML3A? They changed the shape of this part at some point and Introduced the 'A'. You can see the old shape in your illustrated parts list.  Ron

Steve the 'A' after a part number stands for "amended" so maybe that fork link is a later replacement part. Although I can't think what there is to amend about a fork link. Is it thicker or perhaps a different grade of steel??  Ron

OK I've found some flywheels and PM'd you. I also found out that the T80 had steel flywheels and the 3HW had cast iron.....So nothing much in it.  Ron

There's a pair on ebay but in Australia and the post will kill it. There must be others out there if you shout loud enough. I'll ask around.  Ron