Diana and Jackie

Hi All, A rescaled pictorial of all the parts in the Solex 40 NNIP Carb. Some of the parts identified may not come in an overhaul kit, especially the seals. It depends on who supplies the kit. If replacing diaphragms through age replace all - especially the economy device diaphragm, since as its name says this controls the amount fuel used and the economy of the engine. Also note on some carburrettors the cold start device may not be as shown, instead in item 19 there maybe just two holes. Item 19 needs to be mounted with the holes horizontal if that is the case. Diana & Jackie

Hi, The two batteries are wired in series to give 24 volts. So its to be expected that one battery will behave in the same manner as the other. My guess is a short circuit to chassis on the link cable between the batteries, OR an faulty battery (internal short). We completely renewed the battery cables on our Ferret with welding cable from TCL and new snap on connectors with insulated tops. Our starting problems immediately dissapeared, and we felt a lot safer. The thought of an exploding battery near a fuel tank is a nightmare scenerio. Please let us all know what the fault was. D & J

If The local Post Office refuse to do it and the local DVLA office say they can then complain to Royal Mail. We did and got an apology letter and a book of first class stamps. The excuse was the staff werent trained, though they weren't trained in doing recorded delivery either, which is why I normally avoid them like the plague. D & J

The last time we went out in the snow in our Ferret shopping to ASDA just wearing mock combats (This was the time we had a flat tyre but that's another story). One man asked us were we regulars or reserve!!!:cheesy: Jackie was wearing her blue worktop with ... on it and I had a pink jacket on! I hate to think what would have happened if we'd been wearing our tank coveralls! Most of the public have no idea that military vehicles can be owned by private individuals including two women - a pity to spoil that conception. D & J

Hi, All on the OFCOM website - especially these pages :- http://stakeholders.ofcom.org.uk/enforcement/spectrum-enforcement/guidance http://stakeholders.ofcom.org.uk/enforcement/spectrum-enforcement/law'>http://stakeholders.ofcom.org.uk/enforcement/spectrum-enforcement/law'>http://stakeholders.ofcom.org.uk/enforcement/spectrum-enforcement/law http://stakeholders.ofcom.org.uk/enforcement/spectrum-enforcement/law D & J

Hi Richard, Glad you could comment - because we were just about to purchase the seal as opposed to the one we had from Marcus Glen. Obviously retaining the washer is important! Diana and Jackie

And Here is the seal specification :- English Metric SpecificationWeight0.09 LBS 0.04 KgShaft Diameter1.750 INSeal Outside Diameter2.506 INWidth0.374 INSpring TypeGARTER MaterialFLUORO Finish NoteA Part Diagram

We bought this seal of Marcus Glen recently. The John Deere website can be found at https://jdparts.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90.jdparts.view.publicservlets.HomeUnsigned Reference is made elsewhere on this website to the JD part NO, which is probably preferable as it appears to be of better construction. Alternatively any bearing supplier should have one off the shelf if you take along the old seal ... J & D ( Nothing to do with John Deere btw)

The solder We use will as it is electrical cored solder - As We stated do NOT use plumbers flux as it will cause corrosion. it is specifically designed to remove corrosion and that is not something you want mixed in with electrics. As stated make sure the parts to be soldered are clean Diana and Jackie (and I have soldered billions of joints too!)

Remove the old conduit, take care not to damage the wiring, it is preferable to disconnect the wiring, pull it through the old conduit and then remove the conduit. Mark the wiring as neccessary If the conduit goes through the wings or body of the vehicle cut through the conduit as most likely it will pass through a rubber grommet. Grommets can be removed and reused if neccessary and it is a lot easier to remove them without the conduit in the way. The Grommets on our vehicle were probably 50 years old and in good condition. Here is a picture of the old conduit cut in half. The Grommet it passed through was saved. We need to keep the end fittings. This is the new conduit, cut ready to length using the old conduit as a guide. A junior hacksaw will cut the conduit, better still an abrasive cutting disc for a cleaner cut. The next stage is to unsolder the end fittings. The Ferrules which fit over the braid are not going to be reused. On the first conduit we did the end fittings dropped out easily after we appplied heat. On the second headlamp conduit the brass ferrule had to be cut off before the end fittings would drop out as we unsoldered it. Here you can see the roll of braid, new ferrules, a new and old screw fitting and the fittings which are soldered inside the flexible conduit. Here the braid is slid over the new conduit. Make sure the braid is longer (about 30mm at least) than the the conduit underneath. Cut the brass tube which will become the ferrule over the braid, with a tube cutter. Use the length of the old ferrule to determine the length of the new ferrule. Tube cutters often close up the ends of tube. make sure that the end of the ferrule is not reduced in diameter, if it is use a rat tail file to open it up. Clean up all parts to be soldered. kitchen scourers work wonders! If the flexible conduit is new and clean inside very little cleaning will be neccessary. Do not attempt to clean the braid unless it is dirty/corroded. Slide the new brass ferrule over the braid and conduit, the reason for leaving extra braid will now become apparent, as it makes it easier to slide the ferrule, ensure that the end of the ferrule and the end of the new conduit are flush. Cut the excess braid, a sharp kitchen scissors is good, trim it back as close to the end of the conduit as possible. Stray ends can be tucked down inside the conduit, slide the recovered end fitting inside the conduit and tight against the ferrule. Warm the end assembly and flow ample solder into the joint between the ferrule and end fitting. Capillary action will cause the solder to flow inside the assembly. NOW THE IMPORTANT BIT.... FIT both screw fittings onto the new assembly, ensure that they face the correct way - screw ends out. If any grommets need to be fitted now is the time to do it. Repeat the process of fitting the ferrule and end fitting on the remaining end. Make sure the braid is tight over the length of the flexible conduit before ffinally completing the soldering on the last end. A neat job can be done of soldered joints by wiping with a damp cloth or towel roll, take care not to burn yourself. Finally refit the conduit to the vehicle. Job Done Diana and Jackie

The Electrical conduit on our Ferret is in a bad state. Layers of paint and worse still rotten because the galvanised conduit under the braid was totally rusted. Here's how to renew the conduit. Bear in mind the conduits can be a different size. This excercise was to renew the conduit on the headlamps and side/turn indicators on a Ferret Tools - Heat Gun, tube cutter (22mm), pipe wrench, screwdrivers, junior hacksaw, vice. Stores :- Brass tube 9/16 x .014 (ebay), SLEEVING BRAID MBS 95-7.5mm 10M REEL (rapidonline), metal conduit sleeving, nickel plate on brass - 10mm bore, (vintagecarparts) electrical cored solder. Screw on ferrules (pack of 6 on ebay, military surplus) Note - do not use plumbing flux, if the brass parts are cleaned properly the solder wil flow with very little problem. Galvanised steel flexible conduit can be used but in time it will rust again, it will also cause a problem in soldering, the flexible metal conduit sleeving of brass will take solder easily. The original screw fitting will most likely be of brass, if the fittings are under the mudguards or body re-use brass, if they are on the top surface of the vehicle then new screw fittings maybe used. Take care not to damage the brass end fittings inside the old conduit. I have been unable to source new ones. There is no reason why with care they cannot be re-used, along with the screw fittings. Next the photos :-..........

First attempt at remanufacturing the headlight conduit on our Ferret... How will come later! Diana and Jackie

If you fit Jolley Electronic ignition the spluttering nonsense will diminish along with much easier starting and better fuel consumption (cost over £200 though :shocked:) We use a 12/24volt battery charger off ebay fitted with an Ammeter to a 110v yellow plug and socket into an intervehicle charger starter plug and a long lead using mains cable which is ok for about 10 amps charging current. When the ammmeter drops back its time to disconnect the charger, unless of course the charger is an automatic float charger. Suspect the brass tap maybe the reserve/main petrol tank tap ? If you do leave it unmoved in the next few months jack it up off the tyres. Diana and Jackie

Hi! Of all the pages in our spare parts book pages L37 and L38 are missing - the very pages I need. Please has anyone got a copy of the missing pages of the Ferret spare parts book they could scan and send? alternatively I can identify the parts which are front Headlamp Conduits - left and right and conduits to the front light towers (side/turn) again both left and right. Otherwise it means getting a complete new spare parts book! Thanks Diana and Jackie

We recently bought a Ferret - it was in excellent condition, brakes tested etc etc, we had "no need to worry" So far :- All new brake cylinders and cables. One brake on one wheel seized completely both foot and handbrake. One brake shoe carrier seized. Brake shoes contaminated with oil The brake bleed nipples all renewed. All four new brake hoses renewed as they snapped in my hands!!!! Master cylinder renewed and old fluid flushed out of brake system Fuel guage didnt work - fixed loose wiring Thermostat guage didnt work - new thermostat oil flooding into driving compartment from gearbox - 4 new oil seals - hidden by jamming old stinking rags under gearbox Complete new exhaust system as the old was bodged and leaking exhaust gas. Carb air inlet loose Headlamps renewed Sidelight bulb jammed in with silver paper bulb holders rotten with rust. Internal light didnt work - loose connector Tacho didnt work - tacho cable damaged beyond salvage and rusty. At least one grease nipple damaged and others blocked (ongoing work) Battery boxes loose as were batteries. Next on our agenda are new tyres this weekend. One of the sellers boasted how he had taken his grandson for a drive - forgot to mention he could have killed him. We are now roadworthy but how many others are not? Diana and Jackie

http://www.m201.com/access/pneu2.htm Says it all Diana and Jackie

We'll just nip down to Machine Mart and buy one - but if they dont have one they do have the cheapest 39" tyre levers you can get. Diana and Jackie

Sounds a good idea! We have a 20 Ton lorry jack with a nice large flat base. Diana and Jackie

Hi Yes we did buy new tubes as well - not taking any chances and not a good idea to re-use the old tubes when you have brand new tyres. Tubes about £12.75 each with the extended valve stem. About to go looking for long tyre levers next then! Diana and Jackie.

£145 each - do a search for Totec Tyres.. Diana and Jackie

Hi, Just bought five new MRF NDMS 9 x16 tyres for our Ferret from Totec Tyres. Please can anyone tell us if we need to remove the runflat inserts and replace them with tyre gaiters? And if so where can we get suitable gaiters? Any tips on changing these tyres would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ......Diana and Jackie. PS... he has just had delivery of this hard to obtain tyre - we also got the tubes.

Jackie and I have a Ferret, we've even been to Asda Shopping in it, we had no problem, just we had to watch out for badly driven cars driven by men in flat caps, or should I say they had to watch out for us. Diana and Jackie.... Ps we wouldnt swop our Ferret for a man - no way!

The problem ended up being the cooling system filler cap. The previous owners must have know there was a problem since they gave us quite a few spares, one of which was a filler cap. Cap and attached pipe changed - problem solved! Diana and Jackie

The DVLA being a government agency dont make mistakes...They are Purrfect. Diana and Jackie

If I was applying to get this vehicle road registered and they refused I would using the Freedom of Information Act ask them to confirm how many of the type of vehicle (being specific about the vehicle) were registered for use on the public highway. When they gave an answer of more than one (and presuming they did) then their previous utterances become nonsense. If you want to beat officialdon the best course of action is to use their crap against them. Diana and Jackie