Zero-Five-Two

Nice work. It's great when you can stand back and look at it aĺl in one colour. And you think yeah, I did that

Many thanks for that, Wally, and yes please. I had imagined I would invent something on the computer that could be printed onto a transfer, but if there is a chance of obtaining an original I can't refuse that.

Hi Wally, I think I read somewhere that the standard size plate is 9.5" vertical and 8.5" horizontal. Have I got that right? Had a look at the Tanker today and there are 2 screw holes on the front near side that would match this size.

Best thing about this forum, no matter what the question is some one has the answer. Thanks for the replies gents. REME 245 you are right on the money with the 154 Lowland Regiment. My Tanker spent most of it's career with 225 (QOLY) Squadron RCT. Which became part of 154 Regiment. So the badges on the one in the picture would suit mine as well. Not convinced I want to go as far as the RTC badge on the door, it will clash with the RE blood in my veins

With the Tanker I took the view that at 65 years old it would have picked up the odd knock. Big damage like the near side rear wheel arch that was well bent has been fixed, but smaller dings, there's a couple on the rear of the tank for example, have been left. All part of the history and character of the thing.

Hope not, but, to be honest I haven't looked. Not too bad if there is, we have a nice man from Poland who sorts out that sort of thing. He loves a bit of T cut.

Modern 2 pack is not as dangerous as it used to be, but that said, you've got to be wearing something, otherwise you can feel the fumes getting into your head within seconds. Even in the well ventilated area we were in yesterday. The one you see I am wearing is a standard 3M job. According to manufacturers it is good enough for paint spraying and chemical processing. Seems to do the job OK, can't smell any fumes when spraying, and don't get any kind of headache or ill feeling afterwards.

Couple more pictures, day after this time. Moved her out a bit to get a better camera angle.

There's bound to be a thread on here about vehicle signs, but I haven't found it yet, so may be some one can point me in the right direction. I'm trying to investigate the correct signs to go on the front of my Militant Tanker. I scanned this picture from Les Freathy's book (Sorry about the quality) It shows a Tanker with 2 signs as well as the normal bridge plate. I'm assuming the near side one is cross of St Andrew for a Scottish unit, which would suit mine as most of it's career was spent in Edinburgh. Is the Off Side one for Division? Main question is, what size should they be, and what colour?

Standard commercial 2 pack. Goes on well and sets rock hard. Nice finish, straight from the gun. Whole thing has 2 coats Bonda Primer red oxide. 1 x grey filler primer, and 2 coats BDG gloss. I used the same method on my Timber Tractor, and that still looks pretty good even after 10 years living outside on the farm. So hopefully Tanker paint will last as long

Got to the point where I can't really do any more to the hose tubes, or the rear wheel arches, or any thing else until the tank has been painted in top coat. So, spent most of last week flatting the primer down and fixing the odd dodgy spot. Made a couple of little wooden stools for kneeling/standing on the top of the tank. Intended painting at the weekend, but it turned out to be far too windy. There would have been a mess. Weather forecast for today was much better. So, up at the crack of sparrows and on with it. Last check over, wipe down with panel wipe and tack rags. Load the spray gun and off we go Top and lids first. Stools are an excellent idea but it kills your knees by the time you've done all five lids. And then you've got to go back and put a second coat on. Once they're done you can move onto the sides Knees are OK now, but back starts to ache reaching over to the middle Back end is more comfortable, but it is a big area to cover More side work And finally underneath Deep Bronze Green all round. Of course, the moment you start spraying, a million flies turn up and stick themselves to it, and there is a couple of dry patches of over spray. But nothing a bit of T Cut wont polish out once it's had chance to harden off properly. Overall, well pleased. Took 6 hours (plus fag breaks) and 12 ltrs of paint in all, but I think that was 11 on the truck and one on myself. I've still got a green tint, even after a good scrub in the shower. Nice shine though. On the truck that is!!

Got to agree with everyone else. Bored? Never, it's a pleasure watching the craftsmanship and seeing lumps of rusty scrap take on a new life. Parading the finished vehicle at a show is great, but the journey to get there is always more interesting. It's what restoration is all about.

Have you tried the AEC Society? They do wanted ads on their website and facebook page

Still working on the hose tubes, but a change of material, now, moved on to the brass end caps. Usual round of cleaning old paint off but have to use stripper and wire brush as the favoured electrolysis doesn't work on brass. As well as a turn wheel locking catch, each cap has a lug for a padlock to be fitted. Except one pair, flap and back plate have both had an issue in the past and the lugs have been broken off. I have to plead guilty to part of this. The flap itself had been quite badly bent at some point, in the past. Looked like it had seized up and someone had tried to lever it open with a crow bar. As they are cast pieces, I wasn't sure how it would react to being straightened. But, using a lot of heat and gentle persuasion I got it back to a respectable shape. Except for the lug, which pretty much just fell off. I think it was probably cracked already and I just finished it off. The back plate lug had been gone for a long time, as the remains had been painted over in the same green as the rest of the tube. This is where it used to be Any way, purchased a piece of brass bar and started by drilling and tapping a 4 BA hole in one end Grind off the remains of the old lug on the flap, and drill a matching hole. Cut the head off a brass screw to make it double ended, and screw the two bits together. I'm not sure how much extra strength the screw will provide, but it does hold the bits together in the right place for soldering Repeat the operation for the back plate, then put the two halves together, drill the centre and shape off the outside. Lastly, the acid test. Does the appropriate padlock fit Coat of paint and compare with the original Think it came out rather well.

That's some very heavy metalwork going on there, but you've obviously got the kit and the skills to deal with it. Looking very good.

Had to post this, 'cos I think it's hilarious. Spent the last 2 weeks working on the hose tubes. Made the tank for the electrolysis, every tube got 24hrs, then lots of welding up rust holes etc. etc. OK. Job done, all finished. Just one question, what do you do with a 10ft long tank. Answer: Stick it on Ebay. Advertised on Friday evening as an "Industrial Style Flower Trough" Nearly got trampled in the stampede to buy it. Local gardener bought it yesterday, paid immediately and collected this morning. Hard cash straight into the beer fund. Proper result!! In actual fact, I've so many enquiries about it, I'm seriously considering knocking up some more tanks out of my spare steel. Would be easy money

Agree with Matchfuzee. Looks like 2BA or 3/16" BSF both are available on Ebay in various lengths

PM Sent

Was expecting to go back to work this week, but got message from the Boss at the weekend asking me to stay on furlough. Happy days as far as I'm concerned, I can crack on with the next 4 hose tubes. Tube No.6 fresh out of the electrolysis tank. 24 hrs in there saves an awful lot of time and paint stripper. Sorts out the rust and lifts the old paint off. Quick whizz over with a wire brush shows up all the issues, patch required here. Bit of plate bent round the gas bottle, cut to size and tacked on Cut round the patch to remove the rusty bit Tack in to get correct level Then weld in all round Grind off surplus weld And finally polish up with zirconium disc. (That's the posh name for a flap wheel) Repeat the operation for the other half dozen holes that have appeared. Skim of filler where required and finish with 2 coats of Bonda Primer Another one done. Tube 7 is in the tank now and will be ready for the morning, and you can just see tube 8 in the last picture awaiting it's turn. With a bit of luck I should have them all done and ready for priming by the end of the week.

"Has potential"...… is another one. Potential to do what? Fall apart at first use

I'm inclined to think the other way, assuming restrictions have been lifted, any show that is on would be well attended. Exhibitors will be eager to get to some kind of event, and Joe Public will be desperate to take the kids somewhere because they've spent half the year trapped at home.

On the strength of the Prof's good words, then, I'd be a bit careful of running straight back to ebay. You've obviously had your one in a million for this month, don't want to push your luck too far all at once. Might bring the odds down a bit waiting til next month

Andy (Truck 257) obviously hasn't seen this thread yet, otherwise he would've posted this pic of his Militant. So I'll do it for him

Evenin' all. Need to ask a favour of someone with a lathe, to make 3 more of these, for me. There should be 4 on the back of my Militant Tanker, but, unfortunately only one has survived. They hold the hose pod flaps shut. Obviously, I'm not expecting it to be done for nothing, and anticipate paying for services rendered. Knurled turn wheel is inch and three quarter diameter, and thread length about the same. Made of brass. If someone can help, I can post the one survivor to them to copy Thanks in advance

Had a good weeks work repairing and painting the first 4 hose tubes. First 2 off the production line. Holes, dents and the chewed ends repaired and coating of the old Bonda Primer on the outside. Odd patches on corrosion up the tube have been quite easy. Well, as easy as thin sheet welding gets. Repairing the rusted ends was a bit more challenging, as it has to be spot on otherwise the brass end cap wont fit Usual massed clamps, and loads of little spot welds Lastly, try an end cap to see if it fits. Keeping a hose inside the tube while working on it goes a long way in noise reduction when hammering or grinding. Trying to be a little bit considerate towards my locked down neighbours. Last job this afternoon, paint the inside. Will the invented sprayer do the honours? Yes, it did. Well sort of. A better class of spray nozzle is required really. The current idea of a bit of plastic pipe with some holes punched in it is a bit too ad hoc. As it doesn't spray like a conventional spray gun, there is no air coming out of the nozzle, just pure paint. It's not so much spraying, as pouring under pressure. But it does pour rather well, if a bit messy. I did say I would do a video of the thing in action. I don't really like filming myself so It's not brilliant but worth a look at for a laugh. Hopefully this is the link to it