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It's looking really good - congratulations!

Luke What are the bulb ratings for the indicators and brake lights ? Regards Iain

Welcome Back !

Standard British headphones and hand microphone No. 3, I think - see: http://store.cbeagle.co.uk/microphone-hand-no-3/ and http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/mil_gb_microphone_hand_no_3.html Certainly consistent with a WW2 or early postwar origin - Stromberg-Carlson was a US manufacturer of telephone equipment and radios although they had a UK operation that was eventually bought out by Plessey Regards Iain

Bill Does it have any labels left ? Usually an NSN, ZA or FV number will give a route to documentation. I agree with Chris that it looks more like a public address or intercom than a radio. The connectors look more like Pye 1960s commercial ones than either Larkspur or Clansman (the Pye commercial sets of the Bantam and Westminster family and the later FM900 series were heavily used in civil defence and Northern Ireland so that does not exclude a military origin) - if you can unplug one of the leads and photograph the pins and socket it would be more of a clue. Regards Iain

Is it a 2-wire connection or is the earth return via the lamp body and chassis ? if it relies on the lamp body connection to the chassis then there may be corrosion causing a high resistance between the earthy side of the bulb and chassis. Iain

Neil For me (and I am sure I had to write to MEPs on something similar 3 or 4 years ago) the most serious concern is the conflict between safety and originality - I would take the view that fitting (for example) a rear view camera, blind spot mirrors, reflective tail boards or a reversing light and bleeper are simply the responsible thing to do on a medium truck with limited visibility to the rear, even though it never had them (which was probably OK in the circumstances that original owners used it in the 1960s, but not trying to get to Ashford on the A12 and M25) ! A secondary issue is that if one is constrained to using NOS parts then those which suffer from age related decay (particularly of rubber) may not be safe to use out of the box and equivalent modern parts may be much superior (e.g. modern electrical cables with non perishable insulation). I believe it is a much worse thing morally to take a vehicle on the road knowing it could be safer than it is, than to be slightly non-original. Especially in the case of older military vehicles for which full documentation is available and modern type approval was never done, the argument applicable to modern cars "but you cant modify it or use pattern parts because the software cant be tested with the modified parts" or "you will invalidate the type approval" is hard to sustain as long as modifications can be justified on sound engineering grounds as replacement with a better version of the same thing. If it comes to the point where it is possible to give input I will make that point again - but my previous experience of writing to the Eastern Region MEPs was that I got stock answers ranging from "That's why we need to leave the EU - sorry I cant do anything while we are in" to "Brussells knows best" from various junior staff members in each of their offices - not really anything constructive or which demonstrated any real understanding or concern. Regards Iain

Welcome here ! Iain

Hi It's more usual for radio restorations to have to put them back I think! There should be one coaxial cable and one with 7 pin connectors at each end between each wing box and the radio bench area - these are not part of the automotive wiring at all. Hope this helps Iain

Martyn Can you do a photo looking into the connectors of no. 2 - it looks like a power distribution box / LT box of some kind - I have seen RACAL ones belonging with the TRA931/TRA9687 generation of export radios that look a bit like that but these look bigger ? Iain

Andy I hadn't thought of that - we did sell some swords to a dealer early in the clearance process ! Do you (or anyone else reading!) know what to call "the glittery braid on a sword hilt" so I can research further on google? Thanks Iain PS if anyone can use these or the lanyard they are available to a good home for cost of postage when I remember where I put them after taking the photo!

Thanks Chris!

Does anyone know what these are and if they have any value ?

Hi First question is whether it has a 12V or 24V electrical system - if the latter it was Fitted For Radio (FFR) (actually I think Tithonous FFR may be split with 12V automotive and 24V radio systems using a separate 24V alternator? I am sure someone will confirm!). If it entered service prior to about 2005 and was 24V it would have had a battery box with 4x12V batteries at the front of the load area with a radio bench on top which had 5 locations for up to 5 Clansman base/mobile radios (UK/VRC-353 VHF and UK/VRC-321 HF). There were a large number of radio fits for different specific roles - in general ones with HF radios can be identified post release by the presence of side antenna stalks which are otherwise only needed if 3 or more VHF sets were fitted. If it is purely 12V it was GS (General Service) and would have had at most "clip in" facilities for backpack radios and a battery charger without the radio table (my GS90 does have the base plates for wing boxes so probably had 2 clip-in UK/PRC-352s in service). After 2005 it would have been refitted with Bowman - in many cases a clue is the presence of a centre rooftop antenna in the hard top (or drilling where it used to be). There is not much public information on Bowman yet - nearly all the dozens of Clansman fits are documented by EMERs - google for "clansman into landrover" to find many sources free or to buy. Regards Iain

Gary You can get most of the manuals in French in PDF form from tm-ww2.com in France. I can supply some documentation that came from other sources that I am free to share, if you need them. The engine has much in common with the post-1948 4.2l V8 US Ford Flatheads and the carburettors are Zenith 32NDIX also found in early Porsches - so a lot of spares can be sourced in the USA. Braking system is Bendix air-over-oil (so it will work without air but is hard work) and some parts are apparently the same as the Reo M35. Tyres are 10.5R20 - get Uniroyals or Continentals if replacing, as the Michelin ZXLs deteriorate in storage. Things to check are: 1) Carburettor - usually needs rebuild - runs too rich if accellerator pump piston has perished 2) Brakes - usually seals go in wheel cylinders - they are an inch size roughly 34.5mm. Check brake fluid level as it will be drained if this has happened. 3) Brake light switch - it's hydraulically operated on the back end of the air-driven slave cylinder mounted on the left side of the chassis. Best replaced with a switch operated by the pedal 4) Air system - should get to 8 bar indicated in a minute or so after starting the engine and hold air for 4 or 5 brake applications after a week - check pressure via safety valves under cylinder 5) Hand brakes - these are shoes operating on a drum at the back of the transfer box. If left on they wear rapidly and need adjusting - the heat can also boil the oil in the transfer box which blows out through the seals where the input drive shaft enters - look for large amounts of oil blown back onto the rear axle if this has happened. I fitted a warning switch and light on the hand brake lever. 6) track rod ends and connections between steering rods All of these are relatively easily fixed. I have one running (but in need of work) and one spares donor which was partially converted to a diesel engine in need of new homes if you are interested, See my other posts on here for details. Regards Iain

I think it depends very much on the police officer you meet and possibly which force he or she belongs to. Certainly when my father died I consulted Police Scotland (ex Northern Constabulary) about the deactivated firearms that he held and the firearms officer I spoke to actually was kind and knowledgeable enough to point out that they were deactivated and lawful Iain

There is a pic of the Howard version at http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?52450-More-bits-from-my-late-father-s-collection-for-ID-and-valuation&highlight=sun+compass (I do still have it). If you want I can do some better photos and measurements to help build a copy. They are on e-Bay item 391319045647 at present although the price seems high to me! Iain

Steve Looking at the 1969 diagram at http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/electcl/1958_wiring_diagram_L2.jpg (thanks to the owner of that site who is, I think, an HMVF member) I think it needs +24V on the solenoid pin of the starter to make it engage and turn, as well as a connection to the supply terminals on the starter. I expect that you should be able to measure a low DC resistance between the solenoid terminals with the starter out of circuit, and if power is applied to them you should hear the solenoid move. The diagram shows no fuses in the starter itself. There are circuit breakers in the distribution box that disconnect the battery and inter-vehicle socket from the vehicle wiring - I think someone with experience of the ferret will need to tell us what the four circles below the breakers are physically - looking at the style of the rest of the diagram I think they are connectors and if plugged in the battery is connected via a link in the box to the starter all the time. If so you should measure 24V across the starter power terminals as soon as the battery is connected. I think I would start by disconnecting the cables from the starter and applying 24V to the solenoid connector to see if it engages - then apply 24V to the motor via a substantial fuse as well if it does. Regards Iain

Steve I think we met at Adrian's over Xmas - I'm happy to come up sometime - I am a bit busy with 1/2 term this week could possibly take 1/2 day off work next week or negotiate for a babysitter at the weekend. I used to be an electrical/electronic engineer for a living. Do you have a wiring diagram or do I need to research one ? PM me with a phone number if you want to discuss tomorrow. Regards Iain

Thanks Clive! Google has not so far been helpful in finding any details of its intended use - I'm guessing it is a lighter cable intended to be unrolled going forward, whereas D10 is for semi-permanent installations ? Regards Iain

Does anyone have a specification for this cable - it is green, about 2mm diameter, and has a single 7-stranded conductor. The strands are very stiff and springy so appear to be steel rather than copper ? I've been using it for various ad hoc antennas having got it from my father's estate - it was originally a compact coil wrapped in hessian strip. I assume it was intended for field telephone use in some way ? It's much lighter than D10 and comes as a single wire rather than a pair. I attach a photo of the label. Regards Iain

There is also a group from Felisxstowe who have Soviet vehicles (a GAZ66 a ZIL and a UAZ 4x4 minibus) I see at local shows - hopefully one of them will notice ...

Thanks Trevor - I found an e-bay listing (380984148194) for an identical KGB card even to the numbers with 125 sold to date, so I am sure it is one of many and therefore a reproduction. The CPSU membership card has the handwritten parts in exactly the same ink as the parts that should have been preprinted so I am sure it is also mass produced. Quite why my dad had them I am not sure - I am quite happy to donate them to someone who collects Soviet stuff if useful as part of a display. Regards Iain

Thanks Chris!

Simple sun compass ?