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Chappers

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Everything posted by Chappers

  1. The item your referring to Jack is a voltage regulator a LM7806 is one type available from most electrical components suppliers . It reduces the voltage to 6v from 12v at 1amp (if your running a 12v system)as the sender unit and gauge's were designed to run on a 6 volts system. I've never had a gauge work correctly ,it's got a lot to do with the way the gauges were wired during manufacture.I'm going to do some experiments using a modern day 12v smiths gauge wired to the GMC sender unit to see if i can calibrate it using resistors to get the right deflection on the gauge ,I'll let you know how i get on regards Steve
  2. All those who have asked for the T 55 DVD They'll be posted tomorrow,please pop a few coppers in a local RBL box to make me feel happier about the postage. P.S you can watch them on your home DVD players/TV as I've set up a menu at the start ,just click on the film clip. Regards Steve
  3. Posting tomorrow, drop a donation into a RBL box for the postage regards Steve
  4. Hahaha I wish,more like 30mph and was a lot of cutting involved to get it to what it is. If anyone wants a copy, let me know as it's over 750MB with the accompanied music and I'll post one to you, PM me with your details and I'll bang them in the post. Regards Steve
  5. Well I started my life as a paint sprayer,spraying cars then went on to heavy vehicles spraying 13 coats of paint onto gritting lorries chassis for a council contract,got made redundant after revamping the paint shop and moved into the building trade,had my own business for the last 20 years in construction,been working on engineering projects most of my spare time ,from building Go-karts ,repairing cars to restoring military Vehicles and rebuilding engines. I've got to thank my Wife and kids for their support in letting me do the things I enjoy most weekends (and before anyone says it's not THAT :oops: :oops: :schocked:) oh and the Tea supply is endless :-D. Regards Steve
  6. I've made a small video (10mins approx) of us driving a T55 down the M42 about 20 miles 8-) if anyone wants a copy .
  7. Hi chaps,I believe the Morris MKII is as mentioned not on display it's being restored and they will be working on it on the Wednesday I'm visiting hence a midweek trip.I've spoken to David Willy the Curator and he said it's best if I speak with the restoration team whilst I'm there and maybe get a hands on feel for this nice little recce vehicle. I've finally got the Morris recovered and it needs a lot of work to the body,but nothing me and the guy's around me can't handle. Will be posting a blog of the restoration soon. Here's it is when we finally got it towed home: http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/2408/p1010007ul2.jpg[/img] Brian chief mechanic surveying the project with one of my lads http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/9853/p1010001xn5.jpg[/img] regards to all Steve
  8. I'm visiting the Tank museum with a few friend on Wednesday 12th September, I've got the go ahead from the curator to crawl all over the Morris LRC with my tape ,camera and micrometer. I need to get as much info as possible to help start our Morris project off. Anywhere else to visit whilst were in the Neighborhood ??May have a few hours to spare so going to make a day of it. regards Steve
  9. Wow that looks fantastic ,My kids will be nagging me if they see this thread,Where did you get it from Jack?? Regards Steve
  10. Hi Mark,you should make your own up using heat shrink cable cover and the appropriate wire and modern day connectors.It wouldn't be to hard to do I've done a few before on different vehicles and they came out great. regards Steve
  11. Hi Mark ,It goes on the drivers or passenger side of the side engine cowl (vented part) Here's my 352 http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/9253/copyofdsc00420vo0.jpg[/img] Regards Steve http://www.501para.net
  12. Hahahaha Welcome to the club Mark ,I've got 3 GMC's and they all change gear slightly differently, It's a great feeling when you master the art of Douldle declutching though ,Take your time and relax it'll come. 1. Clutch in (press the clutch pedal to the floor) 2. Move the gear stick to NEUTRAL 3. Clutch out (release the clutch pedal to its normal position) 4. Blip the accelerator (push on the accelerator pedal so the revs rise and fall) 5. Clutch in again 6. Move the gear stick to the new gear 7. Clutch out again The problems you find with most of these vehicles is that it's got a lot to do with how it's been driven prior to your ownership and the degree of wear done to the gearbox gears. New gears are tapered/ rounded on the ends a bit like your fingers if you push both hands together they'll interlock nicely, but imagine trying to do it with square ended fingers you would be lucky to get it them interlock easily,this is why some gearbox's are more difficult than others. I'm in the stage of rebuilding a spare GMC gear box if all goes well then I'll do the other 3 . Good luck with your new vehicle and welcome to the GMC Club. http://www.cckw.org for your GMC problems Regards Steve
  13. I carry no Spares in the 3 GMC's I've got apart from a few Beers under the drivers seat ,I've paid for Roadsure to sort the problems for me or recover me. If I was planning a trip over to Normandy however then I'd take a full workshop of tools with me,including spares like brake cylinders,brake springs ,Plugs, points, (although I have electronic ignition I could change back to the old system if needs be) Coil, spare coil of 1mm wire, bulbs, Oil, Brake fluid, Water an assortment of nuts bolts and washers, fan belt,water proof repair tape, Rad seal x2 Cable ties (these have got me out of the shite loads of times) and the most important Item a few tins of beer incase it's a major problem that I can't fix, I can then sit and ponder by the road side whilst waiting for a tow vehicle. Regards steve
  14. It sounds like you have a problem with your carb which is your fuel to engine problem check float levels and as mentioned clean completely,also check the float valve for sticking either way open or shut.You can always fire your engine up if you remove the air filter and pour a little fuel into the carb if it's a fuel starvation problem. If you do pour some fuel down the carb Keep clear of carb when firing incase of a blow back,you wouldn't want a face full of burning fuel :shake: Secondly you said your compression tests were o.k so you possibly have worn inlet valve guides,which would account for a large amount of smoke when you rev the engine.The suction on the inlet can sucks oil up the sides of the valves stems and into the cylinders. It's not too bad to check/change them when you've got the head off. hope you get it sorted Regards Steve
  15. Just for the record I've got Multiple driver insurance on all my vehicles,10 named drivers on 2 x GMC's and a Jeep Unlimited mileage for £130 the lot . I was told that all three vehicles could be involved in a pileup as long as there was a named driver at the wheel I was covered.Their insurance is a standard upto 10 named driver policy I was lead to believe. Footman James is the Insurer and they are spot on for service Hope this helps regards Steve
  16. A Class bit of restoration ,nice to see some of the Morris bits associated with the Morris LRC I'm about to get started on. Was the engine originally shiny Green??. Keep up the good work Rick it's a credit to you regards Steve
  17. There's a guy who live by me in the midlands with 2 WLA's (I think) and a big red Harley?? to top off the collection.
  18. I'd just like to say thanks to all the guys that have sent through manuals and information for my Morris project it's much appreciated. The response has been amazing with members taking the time to Photostat manuals and research info for me ,That's why this forum/site will keep growing due to it's Top class members. Hope I can help some members in the future!! Once again my sincere thanks to the guys that have sent me articles Regards Steve
  19. Hi George Can you scan the whole book :whistle: :whistle: :whistle: I know the book your talking about as a friend of mine has it. Great book and some thing I'll add to my book collection shortly. Nice find regards Steve
  20. I took my GMC for a blast around the area,got a couple of pips from some old boys as well as a few lights flashed,or maybe it's because I'm a crap driver :oops: :oops:
  21. I couldn't agree more but the dealers don't post on that section and I believe its just for dealers to post on so It would be nice to have a section were we as parts users could post about contacts we've made!!!!!!. Just my opinion. I met a guy today that deals in Brake and clutch parts, He handed out a business flyer so cant see why he would object to getting more business from a MV forum. so here are his details: Coastings LTD Classic Brakes for cars ,Commercials, military 1929-1985 Tel:/Fax 01564 702388 Will take Master card /Visa credit card and does mail order. Heres another one : The Electrical Parts Company LTD suppliers of Obsolete Lucas Auto electrical spares for cars,tractors,motorcycles and Commercials.Electrical parts refurbished. Tel:stores 01584 811118 Office : 01584 811573 Fax :01584 819570 Every little lead helps regards Steve
  22. Jack do you think it would be a good idea to put a section for parts suppliers/ dealers.The reason is I keep bumping into people with loads of parts whilst looking for the spares for the "Big Morris project" I'm undertaking. Just thought it would be nice to have a section for names and numbers or contact details of suppliers. It's the small dealers that I've found that have those elusive parts and they don't seem to advertise anywhere .A lot of the small dealers seem to know each other you could make HMVF the center for parts searching. Just a thought!!!!! Regards Steve
  23. I'm after Uniroyal's where did you get them and are there anymore regards Steve
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