Pete Ashby

One looks to be in fair condition almost worth it for the pair even with shipping. So what are Champs doing in the US ??

Iv'e been doing a bit of this :readbook: and it seems the same question exercises the the biking fraternity greatly with as much huffing and puffing as can be found where ever any enthusiasts gather. Iv'e also had a poke around one or two spark plug manufactures web sites as well some interesting stuff and well worth reading their technical pages (remembering they are in the business to sell you their brand of plug ). On balance from what I have gleaned: The fit or not to fit question: Modern engines with radios, EMU's, electronic wasted spark coils and other electronic gadgetry should have and indeed need restive plug caps and in some cases restive plugs to reduce RF interference to a minimum. Older manual distributor and wire wound coil systems with in house radios benefit from restive plugs OR restive caps but not both as the view is that this may have an effect plug fouling and possible misfiring at low engine loads. Older manual distributor and wire wound coil systems without any other electronic devises do not need any additional resistance in the circuit over and above that which is produced by the HT lead note; this should be plain copper not modern carbon fibers. The effects: There is an awful lot of band width used up on the effects of using restive plug caps on older systems, the main issues seem to be: Potential for poor cold starting, electrode fouling, rough low load running, over heating electrodes and reduced fuel mileage (not that the last one is much of an issue for most of us, the difference between 5 miles to the gallon and 4 is not worth the bother for us ) So what are we to make of all that ? taxing ( and possibly exceeding :blush:) my weak grasp of basic electrical theory and with the use of the stub of an old HB pencil I found at the back of a draw I conclude that: 24 volt there is probably negligible effect 12 volt if you don't have to use restive caps don't use them, if you have to use the caps then don't use restive plugs as well 6 volt there is the potential for a lower power spark if using restive caps which may or may not result in poor hot starting depending on a host of other mechanical factors relating to the health of your particular engine. In conclusion if you run a 6 volt system you may be better off without them The neighbors may not like you but you just may stand a chance of not having to be pushed out of the arena :red::red: Comments and discussion welcomed......... I'm off to lie down for a bit :confused: Pete

Is this due to true electron flow in a conductor then Clive? ......Hmm your going to have convince me that it wouldn't just take four times as long (on a 4cyl engine) Time for brew and a think :coffee:. Right back on it,.....Or are you saying the whole system in terms of metal deposition/loss is in equilibrium putting aside things like failing condenser and mechanical ware in bushings ect.? Point taken about reverse wired LT on the coil. Pete

What indeed ! Pete

That's where I was going with that thought Clive,........ which would mean as the rotor slowly erodes the spark flare duration at the plug should get longer but the power of the spark will decrease ? Pete

Not off topic at all, very interesting in fact so what was the solution? was it a good old J8C?. One of the reasons for starting this thread was to prompt a discussion about a topic that causes by far the most problems for owners of older vehicles. The interaction and interdependence of HT ignition systems is perhaps the least understood of all systems on a vehicle. Pete

Interesting point Clive, which brings me to ask how the rotor/ terminal gap was determined in the first place, in other words there must be an optimum clearance that is/was calculated by the designers when producing distributors and that begs the question are all rotor/contact gaps the same when new ? Pete

Is this why the old metal shirt button attached in series with the HT lead is believed to be beneficial Clive ? Pete

Here we go Clive http://www.ultralightnews.ca/articles/resistorcapsandplugs.htm, I found the article while looking for some suitable plug caps for an on going project (not aeronautical I hasten to add much more hum drum and non military). I wasn't completely convinced by the findings so that's really what started me thinking and prompted my question here, have a read and see what your conclusions are. Pete

I think this question is possibly one for Clive to field but any one else please feel free to add your thoughts. I have just finished reading an article on the effect of resistor ( suppressor) spark plug caps on the duration and strength of the spark generated at the plug. The article suggests that by using internal resistor caps the duration of the spark flare is increased however, the strength of that spark is reduced. Further more the plug is more susceptible to shorting out as a result of either moisture, oil or fuel contamination. All very interesting theoretical stuff. However it struck me that this may be a contributory factor with bad 6v starting, the coil low tension voltage is sucked away by the starter so the high tension out put is lowered and the resistor in the plug cap drops the output even further resulting in a long duration low power spark or possibly no spark at all if the plugs are damp or the compression of the engine is high. I know all US 6 volt ignition systems had suppressed caps but I am left pondering if the use of non resistor caps may be beneficial by giving a shorter but more intense spark at the plug. Not good I appreciate for radio or TV reception........... comments and thoughts invited............ Pete

Looks very good is that an Auto Sparks loom ? Pete

Don't do it:stop: Pete

Ah now your asking Clive post war kit is not my strong point!, it was a FFW late 24V 109 affectionately known as Mr Scabby as result of the 10 coats of flaking IR paint. My wife used him as a general hack and to take the dogs out, when we moved to Wales he was SORN'd and we collected fire wood with him then he sat in the barn until someone offered me a a price. At this stage I can't remember if the alternator was 90 or 100 amp I have a feeling it was 90 amp ?. Sorry Post War Chaps, shameful I know, :blush:....... I did have the occasional pang of guilt if it's any consolation. Pete

That's what I thought Clive, I had to replace the module in my old 109 after a nasty hot electrical smell filled the cab one day and the charging light stayed on. I can't remember where I bought a replacement module from, it may have been Cradocks.

Isn't that fitted with a internal diode alternator ?? Pete

I see what you mean Clive, less of the pamphlet and more of the tome I think :-), there are some interesting topics covered. Pete

Welcome to HMVF Chris, I have always used good quality modelers enamel applied with a small piece of fine texture sponge (dish washing sponges are ideal). The key to prevent bleeding under the stencil is first to mix the paint well then pour a small amount onto a flat tin lid or pallet now dab it about with the sponge and let the paint start to tack off a little you do not want a puddle of paint you are aiming for a thin even coating of paint on you pallet (practice on a scrap piece will determine how long you need to leave it) then without loading the sponge too much dab off any surplus on to a board and then using a light action dab over the stencil making sure the stencil is held down firmly and not pressing too hard with the sponge at the edges one or two passes should do the trick let the first coat tack off (use a hair drier) before applying a second coat. Pete

Very true Clive, the two pamphlets look to be in nice condition what is the scope of the first (blue covered one)? Pete

:D:D:D excellent response, did he offer you a price for the farmers wife as well :rotfl: Pete

There is a post script to this story, after nearly two years and thanks to the persistent efforts of Nick Thomas at WW2 Jeeps rebuilt by the British Army (Face Book page), a key card for my GPW has now been found in the Deepcut records. The surprise was that it was a Canadian issue vehicle before being rebuild by the British and issued a rebuild number of M1502269. Another detail worth noting is that the vehicle was struck off charge on the 6th November 1957 and sold on the 13th November 1957 so it appears jeeps didn't hang around very long in those days either. Here's a copy of the key card that holds the details of my jeep (position marked with the yellow dots) Pete

Thanks to Nicks perseverance I now have a key card record for my GPW (see the amendment to my restoration blog) this is a registration that Deepcut were adamant that there was no surviving record for. So if you have a 1949 ERM number for your vehicle let Nick know he's a guy who won't take no for an answer :-) Pete

Good work I'm looking forward to more photos :thumbsup: Pete

Nice work, chasing the tin worm is always a slow process. I'm particularly impressed with how you formed the bulk head rain gutter , Iv'e stored that idea away for a another project...... thanks for posting :goodidea:. Pete

Ah right I see Steve, yes LAD could be a very sticky wicket indeed. It would be worth getting your Father's unit diary's they will give you a day by day account of location and work undertaken and some times considerably more information as well. Pete

That seems to be a very common theme Degsy, my Father's medals came in the post and spent the next 45 years in the unopened box in his shirt draw until I dug them out and mounted them with relevant corp badges and patches. He was happy to talk about his war service but as you have noted it was mostly good times and the vehicles he worked on. Pete