Rover8FFR

not sure what type of timber to use yet as the original looks like bog standard European redwood.

Given the level of your work and the longevity of the rebuild. Would it not be more practical to use a hardwood such as oak, or do you suspect a pale hardwood may be more appropriate like a redwood / softwood.

It only seems correct that your vehicle is given the best, especially after your rebuilding of the air filter Jezza.

It's scary what you can find on eBay though and probably Amazon :nut:.

I am however disappointed about the lack of Pig items, but I guess that will add to their future exclusivity???? :shocked:

Wow! That has made a difference mate.

She is sitting very straight and true, just like a 'Pointer' ready for work

Clive at least the eye witness information helps decipher the origins of dating photos or the correctness of the EMERS.

Jim has replied to me in an email and has no doubts read the thread from the link I sent him about his pictures.

He was told me that the Pigs were always gleaming as he slapped on the oil based DBG paint with a brush and they were then dollied up for parades and the like with the diesel rag, so they shined like a new penny! He particularly remembered the mess it made of his hands and the smell.

At least in the modern army he would have to wear gloves! :nut:

I know many people that show lots of hand painted vehicles with oil based paints and the diesel rag is widely still adopted.

I wonder how modern paints react to such a hand dressing?

All interesting stuff and I am grateful to Jim for using me as a conduit to share this.

I note the fairly rare rain cover (for open windscreen) over the horn/headlight switch. I have a hunch that was on early Sankeys & not on ROFs. But not seen enough examples to be certain.

My Mk II is an ROF and it has the rain cover for the dim/dip headlight switch etc if I am not mistaken.

It may be an added detail though as they became standard fitment?

Jim does not live too far from me, as he resides in Kidderminster, so once my Piggy is home and a bit more presentable I may offer him an introduction and listen to his stories

Dear Humber followers.

Firstly I would firstly like to thank Ex-Sapper Jim Cookson for giving me the authority to share some of his service pictures from the early sixties, whilst based in Germany.

His daily drive was a 'Gleaming' FFR Humber Pig in 1963 and he has told me of the pride he had it washing and painting her in the MT back in the day.

Also that he found the single speed Generator Humber's much more nippy and responsive that the FFR with its two speed version.

The blonde haired squaddie is obviously Jim in his younger years.

He has explained that the Humber never got stuck except for when he was towing the 1 ton trailer rammed with radio batteries, so hence he lost traction and had to wait overnight for the recovery to arrive.

Please enjoy these images and I will happily pass on any comments back to Jim.

He may be particularly pleased to hear if any of these vehicles actually survived the ranges or gas torch.

Well I tracked down this as the first convoy light replacement as mine was bashed in transit when the Pig was shunted onto the low loader.

After a little more research and tracking of the internet I have just returned to see this item in my post.

I know the top cover cap is different on them both. The newer one is the correct item with the raised slot and not a bolt, but better to have spares of these older, but exact convoy lights.

Today has been a nice retail therapy day indeed.

Happy Friday

A wise friend has always told me that the quality of a job is dependant upon the quality of the tools used.

I managed to acquire one of these previously from a reliable source, but spotted this rather handsome relative in a NOS state for little money, from a chap parting with old Champ items and the like.

I can now have a correct attachment for the Greaser and Oil apparatus

This one is directional to......

Thanks so far to Clive and Lee.

Making progress with this task.

Gents

I am assuming it is distance or geography that prevents the flood of replies from you all.

Either that or I have very few friends on this forum who could help me? ! :embarrassed::embarrassed:

Hehe

I have made further enquiries so will let people know what sort of costs I am getting quoted so far.

The first quote said they couldn't do a 'Back' load as the vehicle they would use is in popular demand.

Dear Forum Members

I am looking for anyone out there who would be able to collect my Humber from Oxford and transport it to my home in Ross-on-Wye.

I approached a transport company locally, but I am sure I can save a little money, but still reward a Forum member for their time and diesel etc.

If anyone could help then please let me know.

Thanks very much.

Bloody Good Job you are a Carpenter Jezza.

Looking forward to your handy work.

This is an interesting question, which I shall be interested to watch replies on.

I think it is a good question, which may be of benefit to those that cannot fabricate and weld or that it may assist in small areas and the like. Sometimes this pitting can be very slight and in small areas, which would suggest a cut and carve approach is severe?!

It is worth noting that some treatments may be required to the base metal to prevent further corrosion when covered by a coating.

In the construction and engineering industry epoxy type composite adhesives are used to repair a steel / concrete item. 'SIKA' manufacture such resins. These could be painted on and then sanded smooth and given it is an epoxy resin then they will be extremely strong and durable indeed. Such a system can be sprayed or roller applied.

Treating the area with a rust treatment and then applying a body filler, would create the same effect, but the key and resistance to cracking with the epoxy is much better than a proprietary body filler.

As I said. An interesting question, which I am intrigued to see what the knowledge of the forum and restorers will churn up.

Thanks

I have now built a device to run up an ignition coil so you can see the sparks fly

I took Clive up on this offer recently to test some 24v parts.

I can most definitely confirm that the 'Sparks' do indeed fly. :cool2:

Um well yes. It was a 14-year relationship that cost me many thousands, one doesn't forget these things.

Wow! I have so much to learn from you my friend. It took me 14 months to find the TRB :cool2:

With all this knowledge it is likely to be a 'Very' accurate model indeed.

Clive - Please tell me you have not scribed all that data from memory! :readbook::bow:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]90538[/ATTACH]Hello I wondered if any of you Humber Vehicle aficionados would be able to help with a stowage issue for a model project. The attached photo is of the inside offside wall of the Humber Hornet Malkara launcher vehicle. My questions are;

1) The small yellow tubes on the top right corner. I think they are probably for smoke canisters/cylinders for the exterior launchers. But does any one have a picture of what the canister looks like from a 1960s vehicle?

 

2) Below the five canister holders are three racks. I think the two smaller ones on the right are for GPMG ammunition cans. But what would the larger one on the left for?

 

3) To the left and on the end of the launching guide system ( big silver box with dial) are clips. What are these for FN rifle or bren gun ammunition clips?

 

Thanks

 

Luke131

Luke I would imagine Mr Elliott is very excited by this image and if he does not reply. I. For One, will be GOBSMACKED!

It will take his eye of lecturing me about getting my brakes fixed.... LoL :-D;) :cool2:

Don't use it on something like a Hawker though, you'll knacker the battery.

 

Andy

Why is that then Andy?

What's the latest on this one?

Anyone know?

I was doing some research on the lockers and wheel arches and came across this old thread.

It was progressing really nicely :-D

Got one off the famous auction site

12/24v (20 amp boost) Maypole MP730S HD Battery Charger 100Ah-250Ah rated batteries.

Brand New and sealed in the box including free postage = £45.

I think that should sort the domestic and MT's out.

Happy Days.

Just remember that Creosote is banned for use by Non-Professional contractors in the UK.

Creosote substitutes are widely available and less harmful to the environment.

However if you want a more natural look that and do not want the aroma of a telegraph pole then Danish oil is extremely durable.

It is also important that the product is allowed to breath.

Some useful info on Danish (Dutch) Oil.

What is Danish Oil?

Top quality Danish Oil is made to be absorbed into wood, protecting, nourishing and ‘feeding’ the wood from the inside. It is easy to apply, has an attractive ‘natural’ low sheen finish and excellent long-term protective properties.

Danish Oil has the following benefits:-

• It is very easy to apply with a cotton cloth or a brush.
  
• It dries in 4-6 hours per coat.
  
• It contains over 50% Pure Tung Oil.
  
• It is food and toy safe when dry.
  
• It gives an attractive natural low sheen finish.
  
• It has a low odour when drying, and none when dry.
  
• It is specially formulated to penetrate deep into all types of timber, nourishing and protecting.
  
• It does not leave a surface film or varnish, and will not chip, flake, crack or peel.
  
• It is dirt resistant and will resist stains from wine, beer, coffee, tea, coca-cola, orange juice and food.
  
• It is naturally water resistant, yet is microporous to water vapour allowing the wood to ‘breathe’
  
• 
  

Danish Oil can be used on almost any wooden surface, including interior and exterior furniture, doors, window frames, cladding, hardwood floors, skirting boards, gates, children’s play areas, kitchen worktops, turned wood, musical instruments and food preparation areas etc.

Danish Oil is naturally water, food and alcohol resistant. It is safe for food contact when dry and can be used for wooden bowls, chopping boards and butchers blocks. It is certified EN71 toy safe. We do not use any synthetic or modified resins or varnish in our Danish Oil.

Danish Oil is simple to use and easy to maintain. Re-application of one or two thin coats every year will keep wood looking naturally ‘fresh’. Damaged or scratched areas can easily be maintained by reapplication of Danish Oil.

Danish Oil is suitable for use with all softwood and hardwood, including exterior oak and teak.

definitely will not be installing a 90a system...

 

i will decide when its next to go on

 

 

Chris

I like this comment

Hi Chris

I hope you find a genuine rectifier.

I bought one some years back as NOS and haven't seen one since.

It took years to spot them but perhaps in hindsight I was just very very lucky.

Im interested what solutions you decide upon.

It may be well worth checking the performance of them as is though even though cosmetically they have suffered.

If you do have major problems then one option I mused over if I didn't have a solution was to change to the 90amp set up. Albeit I never researched the what's and where fors????

Good hunting

Best wishes

Dear All

I am looking around for a good, but not cost the planet charger that would do 12 and 24v batteries.

I do have one of those Oxford battery conditioners / chargers, which are excellent but due to the way they work take days to charge a battery and even longer if they de-sulphate it first.

Also are those Solar ones any good for float charging a battery to ensure it's always at peak charge.

Thanks

There is one thing you never do with a QL is to overfill the radiator. I fill until I can just see water at the bottom of the tube, carry a dipstick will be easier unless you are 8 foot tall. My QL has a temp guage fitted, (ex-Danish army mod) and you know when there is a problem occurring and it is time to back off the pace a little.

 

regards, Richard

Would a Kenlowe Fan at the front help too rigged to a thermo switch? Perhaps a daft suggestion but more air passing through might help :undecided:

Clive

The front foot lockers do appear to be in reasonable order. On first impressions. Albeit only viewed from underneath :undecided:

Thanks for the advice on the floor plate fixings. Perhaps some gentle heat and a blast of penetrating oil would be wise from what you are describing. That has worked wonders for me in the past with stubborn seized fixings.

I will give it a go and tell you how I get on

The rear locker cover had already been undone and was just sat in-situ.

It would be really nice if the front lockers contained some hidden treasures like the rear one did. I suspect not, but will have to wait and see.