Rover8FFR

Firstly I most sincerely apologise to anyone that may have wished to come for this very short notice !

This coming Easter Monday see's another magnificent Coleford Festival of Transport .

If you are into anything that moves on wheels (and occasionally on tracks too!)......... then Coleford is the place to be this Easter Monday.

It's reputedly the biggest 'Transport' Festival /Rally held in this country on a completely hard surface .....the entire town is closed for the day to all traffic so ,the streets and town carparks are literally full of everything you can think of.......There's usually a really good turn out by the ex-military boys .....and also Classic , Rally and Sports Cars , Off roaders , Motorcycles , Lorries , Customs ,Tractors and even some Steam Engines appear now and then ...

If you can make it there you will certainly not be disappointed . There is also always a cracking selection of Auto jumble stalls amongst many others selling just about anything vaguely related to 'transport'.....If you have any nature of old vehicle or are rebuilding one or 'fighting the good fight' of keeping one on the road or are just sort of ..well you know... ..interested?...? Then you will certainly find something of use or interest to you:) There are also displays by the local Rescue Services etc and also lots of club stalls to keep you interested.

 

PS: There's always a small fairground and some kiddy rides as well to keep your brood happy if you drag them along for the day and the local churchs do a cracking job of serving up tea and snacks and cakes etc to keep you all going through what will be a very long day! I do hope to see some of you there to put names to faces . I'll be in the American Car Section this year with my old 1946 Hudson Commodore 6 Sedan so please come by and say hello

 

sounds worth a peek

Clive

Just checking that what I read is correct in user manual and EMER 252 Wheeled Vehicles.

Whilst all the head and side/ tail light bulbs are rated as 24 / 28volts

The indicators are 12v due to a relay? Is that totally correct and why do that?

Thanks

Wayne ok on the conduit situation as I suspected.

 

I wouldn't bother with the letraset, wasn't originally there as it was intuitive, well meant to be!

 

Your switch hole I see has not been modified & is in the original upper position.

Original wherever possible, practical and affordable will be my ethos with my Piggy.

Anything is better than the toggle switch currently in place.

I checked my archives for the hole position too earlier

Yes Wayne especially when you are meant be working

 

I suppose you have been studying the stores label & sniffing the waxed paper. :cool2:

 

Don't worry it'll soon be Friday

I'm not in work Clive

I have been sniffing the canvas for the Piggy and you know what that does to a man ?!!!##

Another useful job done to be wrapped up and set aside just need two more turn signal lamp holders.

Doing some of this smaller stuff is quite therapeutic

I will have pointy end uppermost as more accurate! I can add some letraset characters for L and R

Regarding the cabling in lockers. All my lockers were rotten but I am correct in saying the cables were in the metal sheathing only and held in place with P clips.

This is based upon traces of thin metal attached to clips around braided sheathing. The sheathing is still in place. Albeit cabling is now loose and dangling.

I suspect any metal conduit would be from the legacy of a MkII Bracelet upgrade if your 1609 went that far in her previous life?

I hope that assists.

Wow! That's come up nicely.

looks the part Jezza

Modified a bit more now to look a little more convincing thanks to some help

Clive

I think you have done a good job of those my friend.

Pretty good metal bashing if you ask me :cool2:

Given me some ideas about fabrication

Well I modified the original switch lever in between other bits this weekend to make something a little more realistic until I find that elusive original item

You need to return the V5 to Swansea and amend the taxation class (wouldnt really bother with the change from 1966 to 1964 )

I will do that thank you very much

I have just done a check on my Toastie and got these details;

[TABLE]

[TR]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableleft]Date of Liability

[/TD]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableright]01 11 1991

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableleft]Date of First Registration

[/TD]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableright]01 10 1974

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableleft]Year of Manufacture

[/TD]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableright]1966

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableleft]Cylinder Capacity (cc)

[/TD]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableright]Not Available

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableleft]CO₂ Emissions

[/TD]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableright]Not Available

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableleft]Fuel Type

[/TD]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableright]PETROL

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableleft]Export Marker

[/TD]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableright]N

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableleft]Vehicle Status

[/TD]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableright]Unlicensed

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableleft]Vehicle Colour

[/TD]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableright]GREEN

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableleft]Vehicle Type Approval

[/TD]

[TD=class: vehicledetailstableright]Not Available

[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

This is interesting as the V5 does not state year of manufacture. Also I believe the YOM is wrong.

The vehicles Military ERM is 'EL' which I believe was for year 1964? Can anyone confirm the 'EL' year please.

Also as it was first registered 01.10.1974, will it now qualify for the historic road tax after the rule change?

Given that the YOM was stated as 1966 I ask myself why it is not a Historic Vehicle. Can this be changed easily??

Thanks

Thanks Tony.

Yes I have a pressure bleeder I can use, so will put it to good use! Infact it is a brand new one, so the Piggy will be it's first customer!

Cheers for that and a lot of sense applied there.

The drawing bit is not an issue for me as I have a qualification in geometrical and engineering drawing also, with access to CAD, but flimsy panels fitting well may be a BIG challenge as you say and cost a bit to get fabricated!

I would not expect you to be anything else other than honest and direct after all these years. Maybe even Blunt!

I will 'Park' this one ( :cool2:) and work on the brakes :rotfl::rotfl: ;);)

Clive do you happen to know the gauge / thickness of the original material

used for the side lockers and rear wheel arches by chance.

Your image above states 1.6mm, which is 16gauge. Looking at my NOS panels I

haven't measured yet but suspect they are either 18gauge (1.27mm) or 20gauge

(0.953mm).

Do any of your documents on file quote such specifics.

I know from physically seeing yours that the thicker steel is much more

sensible and robust and I am tempted to follow your lead with my lockers.

I have some of the panels from the front lockers as you know in varying

states of condition and would use these as templates.

I think that one of the reasons why these panels rot so easily is because of

the thin metal and having folded edges for strength, which in turn trap

moisture. Thicker metal won't allow folded edges to be neat and slender meaning

that the flaps and lids wouldn't fit over the panels below?

I may also need a Humber to measure from, albeit the original angle framework

on the hull will be a good starting point.

Thoughts?

Cheers

It is indeed but that is much of the fun in this hobby for me

Here here.... I agree with this comment....

I find some of this stuff frustrating and a challenge regarding correct and authentic. However when you do stumble on that elusive item it is very satisfying indeed.

I really must get out more ......... :beatenup:

Yes your fault Wayne, started me thinking - a dangerous thing to do.

 

Assuming I eventually find one, I have to dismantle the column that houses the present turn switch & horn/dip switch. Then make a much smaller sloping box for the horn/dip switch then stick this illusive flashy switch on the top.

Hehe...

That sounds like a simple exercise for a man of your Calibre :cool2:.

I will watch this thread with interest....

Looks like my query has created another, even more difficult quest for yourself Clive!

I contacted Marcus Glenn and they have suggested that the correct switch lever for the No. 2 MkI is the black allow winged one I already have...... Great! Not the image I was expecting in my Inbox

I hope you have better luck my friend

Hiya Jezza

That rad came out well.

Did they spray it up or you.

cheers

Thanks Clive

the Nos switch I have was in rear locker so suspect Dale acquired?

it has wired connections on already so let me know if you need pics as they are all labelled

cheers

I have a further question and thanks for those images.

Are both those switches No.2 Mk 1 but with the early and later levers.

The chromed lever is different to a Smiths type lever on the control pack and I assume push on and not captive screw retained.

at least I have two scenarios to use as examples.

Thanks Clive and I must find my CD parts manual to assist me further.

Wayne yes & that is what it says in the ISPL Army Code No.12815

 

But there was a change. There are printed & CD copies of this around but they do not include 12815-3.

 

This was Amendment No.3 Oct 1963 & it changed to :

 

LV6/MT4/LU/34486A Switch, turn signal, No.2 Mk 2 FV494505

I see. But I suspect that the switch only changed if it was replaced. Is that correct?

I have a CD of the parts manuals etc that I got off eBay, but for the life of me I have misplaced it and was hoping some nice chap(s) could help me from the forum about this.

My User Manual is 12246.

I have just tried a search on the No.2 Mk II and it returned nothing, so suspect I am going to modify the alloy switch lever to have a point or perhaps see if I can tap the shaft to take the Smiths lever.

I don't want to wreck the pristine No.2 Mk I switch assembly though.

If other owners can share images of their switch arrangements I will make a more informed decision about which to do.

It's a toggle switch at the minute and that won't be staying long term.

I am looking at the wiring next. Hence the function tests and switches etc.

Thanks

Hi All

I have a query that I am hoping will lead to a few snap shots from you all, as to what you have fitted in your Pig.

In my User Manual it refers to the above as No.2, Mk I - FV260925, which is as per the attached image..

This then suggests that the switch lever is the type that fits on the hexagonal shaft with the plunger locator key like the attached, albeit the wrong shape as this one has two wings not one.

I have seen images of Pigs, and even using Clive's as an example they have the slim pointed lever alike the classic Smiths one that has the screw on captive nut arrangement.

I am therefore looking for images as to what you have on your Pig for comparisons.

Of course if there is a similar detail on other B series vehicles that use this switch assembly then please chip in.

Cheers

YOU say the RLC MUSEUM has not got your vehicle history have you tried the MOD for your history under the freedom of information act e-mail cio-foi@mod.uk

If my try goes nowhere Wally I will try that MOD link.

Thanks for sharing

Hi Rob and its nice to meet another Solihull 'Holic'.

We all like pictures mate so show her off!

Best wishes and welcome to the family.

They are a 'Ruddy' good bunch and very, very helpful.

Cheers