Rover8FFR

Hi

I thought I would post this here as it is always best to share our experiences good and bad with our vehicles.

I have noticed that whilst my Piggy starts effortlessly the red charge light stays on!

I have checked the batteries for an output when revving the engine, but no increase in voltage is seen.

I have the Generator Panel No1 Mk1 and the single speed generator.

The battery clamps are tight and the belts do not appear to have excessive free play.

The user manual refers to different procedures depending upon the type of generator and panel.

I am yet to take of the front of the panel generator No1 Mk1, but wondered if anyone had a similar experience.

A problem shared and all that.

The user manual does refer to bridging Pins A&C and B&E, but I am unsure where these pins are to be bridged exactly, which would help on that one.

Can anyone help please?

Thanks in advance

Maybe next time.

 

http://www.stichting162.nl/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/D-day-landing.jpg

Tractors and Trains. My son would be over the moon with that wartime image.....

Mmmmmm

Well the V5C has arrived for my Landrover Mk8 Toastie.

Declared manufactured in 1966, First Registered in 1974. It was given an N reg as a PLG vehicle.

I asked for the vehicle to be classified as a Historic vehicle, when I sought a new owner change, as it was manufactured in 1966.

They ignored my request completely. :mad::mad::mad:

What is the best was to ask for it to be changed, especially as they know it was made in Solihull in 1966.

Cheers

Booooooo!

I am here and will be contributing more regularly now that my Humber Pig and Toastie are home and I can get up close and personal with then at every opportunity. What a lovely thought :whistle:

I find this site totally adequate and agree with Robin about it being better and technically used instead of FB.:goodidea:

Every time I post and add to the forum I feel that I have access to so much help and knowledge. :wow:

You don't get that on social networking sites.:nono:

Cheers

Having been asked by a friend to see if I could get one of these made I have a price for a batch of 10, they are not cheap coming in at £60, the one off price is £90, if I can get the quantity above 10 then the price may well come down a bit more.If anyone is interested could they please let me know.

 

PT

Did this move on at all, as really need one now.

New Tracta joint bellows waiting.

Ta

Thanks Clive. All, again useful.

I notice that Swarfega do an Oil and Grease removing liquid that can be used on all sorts of surfaces, including driveways and paving slabs / concrete and be applied by rag, brush and added to power washers etc.

Its less than £9 for 5L, so I may well give that a go to get the initial shiiiiiiiiite off!

I can then do the fiddly bits up close with either the brush cleaner or even oven cleaner as they would not warrant the power washer and 150Psi touch.

I will probably add some before and after images to this thread so as to share my experiences of different methods.

Cheers

Foaming oven cleaner? Have found it can be quite effective.

I did wonder about that one myself, as it does quite a good job on enamel surfaces, but wasn't sure about painted ones.

Thanks for your input

My guess is that it would be more like red primer, admiralty grey, DBG and then whatever the unit painted over the top, most likely 4 other coats of DBG, some sand, more DBG and a few coats of NATO green

 

 

Cheers,

Terry

That's logical and the traces of Light Stone I have found are on top of DBG, so that stacks up.

As you say it has the umpteen shades and layers over it all.

I wanted to pressure wash the chassis and axles / running gear of my Pig to remove all the oil, grease and filth, including sheep flock that has amalgamated over the years.

In some places the GOO is quite thick and it would obviously take forever to use a rag soaked in diesel or similar.

I know that Gunk is in the shops, but think this need the Mega Duty version of that.

What proprietary products are available for such jobs, or am I best buying a gallon of the Karcher type liquids that mix with the water and blast and clean in one.

Also I need to be aware of any really sensitive parts that a pressure washer would harm on the Pig.

The product needs to be paint friendly too.

Thanks in advance.

You Tease! :nut:

There's me thinking it was a date and not a numerical reference.

Would the Red primer and grey first coat apply to all shades of top coat Clive?

Thanks

Yes exactly as per FVDD Spec 2012 :-D

 

Primer: Red Oxide of Iron

Undercoat: Dark Admiralty Grey BS Colour No.32

Finish paint: Deep Bronze Green BS Colour No.24

2012??? :wow:

Do they still use DBG then. LoL

Well you can really get to work now Wayne :-D

 

A needle scaler is the tool of my choice, then Kurust then red oxide & black gloss (for the pure chassis stuff) but the Pig added fittings to the Humber chassis even underneath in DBG. On good bits of chassis I just painted on Wickes metal paint, even the original black gloss was straight onto bare metal.

 

Places for rust are the Pig rear box section as per my earlier posts. The centre of the Humber chassis at the X intersection is the lowest part of course & I had to repair a few inches of that.

Thanks Clive.

Yes in advance of the Piggy getting home I invested in a 200L compressor (belt driven) so that should be ample for that and spraying.

I just hope the fire station near by don't think it's the fire bell going when I start needle gunning.

My wife bought me a 150mm orbital sander air tool for Christmas and I have a 100disc box of assorted grades in the post, which will help smooth things out on those large flat areas.

I have a French paint, which I swear by, which I will use on the Chassis in Gloss Black by Deproma. It is used on oil rigs and the like, so is very Industrial spec, but can be brushed, rolled and sprayed nicely.

I noticed on the main hull under the newer layers that the original paintwork appears to be red primer, then grey base coat, then DBG! (I may have just mixed the priority of the red and grey undercoats, but there are definitely two colours under the DBG).

I also noticed that one of the front windscreen shutters has remains of 'Sand' coloured paint over the DBG, so perhaps this Pig wasn't always DBG?? More sanding and needle gunning will tell me more.

Some of the heavy steel additional items will probably be removed and blasted and primed by a specialist for best results. Makes sense with the side hatches and the jerry can holders etc.

All in all I am very excited about this project now.

So happy they are home :dancing::yay::beer:

So, a load of Pig Toastie... And we wonder why some people think what we do is strange :-D

 

trevor

Absolutely Trevor

Bacon on Toast is an Institution..... My secret is out!

I do prefer mustard though and not Red Sauce :cool2:

Well the weekend saw the Piggy being moved to home, which was quite interesting as the whole thing was filmed by Channel 4 for a programme called 'Shipping Wars'.

I really hope that I did an honest job during the documentary. I had a bit of a giggle being honest and also got the HMV scene some airtime about why and what we do with these vehicles and the like.

First image of them being filmed;

The vehicle that was sent down for the move;

The Toastie was eased on first;

Then I had the opportunity to drive the Humber on :-D ;

This was all filmed by the Camera team and the vehicles had 'Go-Pros' fixed on them too.

I then parked them up on my separate drive area, where the outbuilding will be constructed to house them.

Then I cleared out all the parts and spares from the back, so I can see what she looks like inside again.

I have some NOS wheel arches and panels which were quickly bolted on for effect;

Other jobs attended to were the draining of old fuel out of both tanks and then run her without the slave fuel cell attached.

Managed to loosen and release the front shutters, take out the front windscreens, which are pretty bad. (luckily I had a NOS one spare, but could do with another one. OR Get mine refurbished in some way)!

Started to remove the brakes master cylinder for overhaul.

Quickly established what wiring is okay for the lighting at the front. Have Head and side lights now working.

In between the domestic duties I was happy with some progress and getting grubby.

I will be taking off the front wings and the like shortly, whilst attending to other mechanical and electrical duties.

I was wondering what is a good base rust treatment prior to primers after sanding and needle gunning etc.

I have used a LOCTITE rust treatment and DINITROL before, which have similar results. I wondered if there is a more industrial version available that people have used before?

The aim being to get the bare steel as well treated as possible before any paint goes back on.

Progress should be more frequent now, so watch as the thread is updated more regularly.

Cheers

It is a design feature, so you can tell if anything falls off

That's very practical indeed!

I will soon find out as the Pig and Toastie are hopefully moving home tomorrow.

Fingers crossed, so if you see anything along the A40 on a truck as a 'Spotted Today' entry. It could be mine on the move.

More on this to follow at a later date / updates to thread.

Good oh ! Wayne give me a shout when you get the piggy home and I'll call by a your new abode :-D

Yep!

Will do matey boy :cool2:

Do you need a Visa to leave the Forest?

I swung by my Piggy yesterday and managed to remove the old rotten rear lockers before she is transported home for the proper working restoration.

I don't want them blowing off down the motorway.

It is some weeks since I last was there so I thought I would see if she started and ran again.

It was very pleasing that she did and ticked over after a little warm up. Which wasn't long in the Oxfordshire sunshine.

Managed to confirm that she can engage and disengage the four wheel drive mode.

Also established that the foot brakes work, but need attention. I have a new seal kit for the master cylinder on the way.

Area behind lockers appear to have been painted in another colour green, which may have been deliberate or a PO application.

All I know is the very good ones that are NOS, not cracked and intact are getting pricey.

Especially the clear side light lenses

Thank Terry and Clive.

Also Jeremy, progress! Yes indeed, perhaps a little less than I planned to do, but all the measuring up and cutting of the other bits to assembly took some time.

I got a metal cutting blade for my chop saw and so the cutting of the edges was very neat and precise.

It was like doing metalwork back at school, and I LOVE IT..........

It is also great to get more time in on the MIG.......

Yes it is

Thanks Clive. I have a period one from memory date stamped of the right vintage, so that will do nicely.

I get it is mentioned in an EMER? Just couldn't see it in the general descriptions.

Best wishes

As I skip through my archive of images of the Pig I came across this image and do not know what the slot and strap are for next to the fire extinguisher bracket.

I assume it would be something that the commander may need or use, being next to the passenger seat. Perhaps a Machete?

Any ideas, as I cannot see anything in the User Handbook relating to the Driver Compartment.

At least that makes the history of a FV1600 series vehicle a little more obvious to anyone looking to sell one without correct details / ERM. As a 'Ringer' as they say!

I suspect it made the production line QA much more sensible too.

I thought your lockers Clive were different on the FV1609? I know you rebuilt yours in a very robust way.

I decided to replicate the panel myself with a thicker metal as the original one is thin gauge with folded leading edges.

I have also noticed that the panels appear to be individual items, which all sit over or against each other. All starting off the production wheel arches.

However this may be for repair after manufacture, as I could see no joints, laps or abutments on my originals, albeit rotten and covered in multiple paint layers.

I will certainly ensure that the new panels have a drainage solution to prevent the trapped water and deterioration in the future.

Modern car panels techniques using seam sealants will ensure longevity too. Hopefully! :-)

You never offered that to me when I bought the other panels???

Thanks for the serial number clarification.

I assume that the 1333 in the chassis number and the ERM are just coincidence then, but what a coincidence.

I assumed it would have made the tracking on the production line so much easier??

Thanks Clive.

Well I did some fabrication work today in my little workshop.

I have some old but original external locker panels for copying or repair.

The offside rear locker top, front section is intact so I made a copy today for the Nearside.

I have each of the mudguards three sided sections, so should be able to reproduce the original rear lockers okay.

I have measured them all up and produced CAD drawings, so that made the fabrication a little more logical.

The panel needs a little more work, with polishing welds etc and the holes for the fixings to the angle section on the hull, but I am really pleased how they have progressed.

They are virtually identical in size and profile, so hoping a neat fit.

I have just noticed that my Mk II Humber FV1611a has coinciding numbers between the chassis numbers and the ERM?

Is this just coincidence or was this how it was done?

The chassis is 21333

Its a Mark 2 with ERM 13BK33

I guess it made identification very simple.