FoolsHumor

Hi Robin, Very nice work you are doing with your replacement parts. It may seem an odd request, but I would enjoy seeing some photos of your shop when you have time. We are fortunate to have quite a lot of members showing their work here and I am always curios how their facilities are laid out and what they have to work with. Just a thought. Thank You. regards, Bob

Montie, I had hoped to have better pictures of my Saracen before posting any here but it does not move under its own power at the moment, so it may be a while before better ones occur. If anyone notices anything that may give me a clue to its history, it would be much appreciated. No numbers of any kind found except the escape hatch numbers posted earlier. Thanks for the help. Regards, Bob

I am still hopeful I will someday find numbers, but the attached photos did not tell me much. Both "06" hatch stampings are included along with a picture of the normally numbered space above the radiator. At the moment the vehicle is painted a sort of gray/ green color and black. I tried to carefully sand through what I thought would be many layers of paint but found only what looked like white then factory green then red primer and bare metal. The black looked a bit like oriental characters. I would be grateful for any thoughts here. Regards Bob

Montie, What was the company in the USA selling? Manuals or parts? Thanks, Bob

I very much appreciate your trying to put my mind at ease about drive train worries.. I do not seem to get much of that these days. The longer explanation for my question has to do with a purchase inspection. I have already bought one vehicle where I did get each individual wheel station off the ground and rocked the wheel to see if if it would rotate with the other two on the ground. In every case I did get a few degrees of free movement each direction. I was assuming if there were broken bits it would either rotate freely or at least feel differently than the others as the broken parts came tight. I may very well find myself needing to do the same on another vehicle and was hoping for some confirmation of my method being good or bad. Your explanation about the Stalwart being more susceptible makes good sense. I had never thought about the other vehicles in the family having somewhat static weight, but the Stollie varying considerably as a load carrier. Thanks again for the help. Regards, Bob

Hello, Could someone please offer a suggestion? I have read the posts about drive train windup and the painted white stripes for a visual check. Is it possible to tell if an individual wheel station is damaged by jacking it up and attempting to roll the wheel? Or possibly getting all wheels on one side off the ground to see if they will roll together? What is the weak component that typically breaks? Thanks for the help. Regards, Bob

If so would this mean I have the 6th chassis built? Hard to imagine that is the case. As to other clues I have taken several other suggestions on where to look, but the uparmouring seem to negate them all. I have not yet removed floor pans as another post mentioned. I will take some photos of the stamping on the hatches and try to sort out how to post them here. I suppose it is also time to do some gentle sanding above the radiator. Anyone have other suggestions, I would appreciate hearing them. Thanks Regards, Bob

Paul, I have a Mk 6 and have also been searching for numbers without any luck. I saw your post about the escape hatches and decided to have a look. Mine read "NS06" and "OS06" OR??? "90SN" and 90SO" No numbers that cannot be read upside down and no lines beneath. Any more clues to whether these hatch numbers point to any history? Thanks for any help or suggestions. Regards, Bob

Hi Keith, I put this same question to the Ferret group sometime back and a member said it was the same disc setup as used in current fire suppression systems in race cars. I then asked the gentleman who services the fire extinguishers where I work and he said it was likely he could fill it but would have to see it first. That is as far as I have gotten with it. My guess would be that whoever works on it will will require an updated hydrostatic test to be sure the high pressure bottle is safe. Good luck. Regards, Bob

As I remember the housing is aluminum? If so Marvel Mystery Oil will help. The methyl salicylate in it will soften the aluminum corrosion. It is that ingredient that makes it smell like wintergreen. I guess this is only of value if it is available in the UK. Comes in a red and black container and is marketed as an upper cylinder lubricant. Good Luck Bob

Hello Richard, Thanks You for the reply. I believe you are correct, as always. I dug a bit deeper in my pile of manuals and used the Numerical Listing for the first time. It shows the 836-3507, although with different prefix numbers. 2520-99-836-3507 vs. 9252-99-836-3507 and the description is "Universal Joint Velocity, Automotive". I cannot find 825-2787 in either the Saracen nor Ferret Parts Manuals. I appreciate the help. Regards, Bob

Hello, Would someone please help me identify two Tracta Joint part numbers? Ideally I would like to know what they actually fit, but I can make do with just knowing if they are correct for either a Ferret or Saracen? I do not have these items in hand. Thank You kindly for the help. 9252 99 8363507 2520 99 8252787 Regards, Bob

Mr. Kelly, I am also in the USA and I can assure you that Richard, Clive, Chris and a number of other gentlemen here and on the Ferret group, do in fact know more than we do. I have been asking Ferret questions for years and they have all been kind enough to share their vast empirical knowledge and actual hands on experience with those of us who need and have asked for it. Please treat them with some respect. They all deserve it. Regards, Bob

Richard, I like the way you think. This line of reasoning has served me well over the years. Bob

Hello, Several years ago there were some posts on the Ferret Heaven Group about a Toyota stat being used on B Series engines. The 2 most useful were posted by Jim K, message no's 12088 and 12090 He owns a Stalwart and has done the conversion and offered pics and instructions. I would copy the post here but I would guess that breaks some sort of Forum etiquette. Regards, Bob

Hello, I am certainly no expert on welding in particularbut I have worked metal my entire life and I can tell you that welding cast of any sort, aluminum, steel, iron, magnesium, whatever, is always a crap shoot. There are enough variables and wide tolerances in the material itself, and then an endless number of built in stresses in the way the casting is done. The finest welders in the counrtyside still listen for the depressing "tink" as their handiwork cools. Welding cast consists of doing everything you possibly can and then offering up a quick prayer to the welding gods and Murphy, and just hope for the best. Thanks for listening. Regards, Bob

Oily, Thank you for breaking trail here. I have a Mk 6 sitting with a rebuilt box in a crate awaiting the same fate. I will be anxiously awaiting your posts on the progress. Regards, Bob

Did you reline it yourself or have it done? What was used for the band material? Details if you please. Thank You. Bob

Clive, Thank You very much for the history on 01 CA 55 and the possible picture. The only hint I ever had was the History Card and there is not much detail there that I could decipher. What you posted is the only information that has ever surfaced on either vehicle. O1 CA 55 is warm and dry living in my shed with 02 DA 11 and a Saracen I have no numbers on. Regards, Bob

Fugly, thank you for checking, Clive, I will assume your question above is for me. My history card from Bovington shows an In-Service date of January 1959 but no entries until December 1967 and runs through December 1982. Although I am the first to admit I have difficulty reading the cards. I could very well have missed something. Do you know this vehicle? Regards, Bob

When you have a moment, would you please check on 02 DA 11 and 01 CA 55. Thank You.

I just noticed your title was "removal" It appears to be freshly painted up and I would have guessed the pictures show it going back in. Pack trouble or other drivetrain issues?

Robin, Are you lifting the pack with the proverbial Sky Hook. Very nice shop, but it looks small to have a hoist of such size. It appears to come out of nowhere?

Very nicely done. My highest compliments to Mr. Catweazle and his helper. Here in my part of the U.S. the work on the rusty, rotted silencer would be referred to as "welding the Wheaties" and the ability in held in high regard by people who play with old tired equipment of any kind. I have attempted this myself and generally only produce smoke and holes in brown metal. Regards, Bob

Gentlemen, Thank you all for the warm welcome. Much appreciated. Chris, Mike, good to have some familiar voices out there. As to Mark's request for some photos, I will do that as soon as I sort out how its done. The one problem is then you will all see how poorly maintained most of my projects are. Except the old airplane, I try not to scrimpt there for obvious reasons. Regards, Bob