FoolsHumor

Nicely done. Very impressive before and after pictures. Good looking trailer for moving it about.

Andy, Very well done repair and thank you for the photos and details. Eventually I will pull the engine in mine to get at the gearbox that needs repaired. Your effort here will help considerably. As always, I do have questions though. What is the purpose of the Foliac Maganeze on the studs? I hate to be the dull one in the group, but what was your “deliberate mistake”? I also noticed the lifting bar changed from the removal to the installation. I assume the later is a preference due to the balance adjustment? Regards, Bob

I do not want to knock a dealer out of a sale, but if you have no luck finding them let me know and I will make a few. I would need yourself or someone to supply an OD, ID and thickness. We can only assume what alloy and temper. Regards, Bob

Richard, Clive, Thank you for the help. Puts my mind at ease a bit. Not knowing what type of oil is currently in both systems, would you change it out completely rather than mix it? Or at least mix some outside the vehicle as a test? Oh, I think I just went back to hand wringing again. Regards, Bob

After much internet searching and overall hand wringing, I finally purchased 10 gallons of Shell TellusT15 for use in fluid couplings in a Ferret and Saladin and hydraulic steering and brakes in the later. Several forum archives listed it as a direct replacement for OM-13 and what I could make of the specs it seemed like a good bet. I am concerned about my purchase because I have heard all the horror stories about seals going south after using the wrong oil. Now after digging around in the specs in greater detail I came across the new problem pasted below. They mention incompatibility with silver plated parts in older designs and the brand name Lucas. The Saladin certainly qualifies for “older” and “Lucas” would be suspect. Shell Tellus Oil T Compatibility: The anti-wear additive technology used in Shell Tellus Oil T is based upon zinc which, although ideal for most hydraulic pumps, should not be used in those of older design containing silverplated components. Shell Tellus Oils R should be used for these applications. Shell Tellus Oil T15 may be used in extremes of temperature such as fork lift trucks in cold stores or in brick kilns, in hydraulically operated machine tools where speed must remain constant throughout the working day. Shell Tellus Oil T15 is also recommended for use as a circulating oil for rolling bearings when a wide variation in ambient temperature is expected. This product should not be used in systems containing silver components, eg some Lucas pumps So the question today for the group……….is the hydraulic pump in the Saladin made by Lucas and are there any other known silver parts involved in the system or the fluid couplings? Anybody have anything else to offer, good or bad, about this oil? As always, all knowledge, opinions, thoughts, and beliefs are welcome and appreciated. Regards, Bob

I did lightly dust the contacts with some ultrafine Scotchbrite before it went back together. Sadly, no, it was not military grease. In fact it was 40 year old centerpoint lube that my Father used for everything that required grease. Made for stationary centers on a lathe it seems to work well in almost every environment. My deep freeze measured -18 F and when I tried the disconnect, it was a bit sluggish, but worked with it's own spring pressure. It is unlikely I will be putting many miles on the Saladin in those temps. Now it is time to move on to badly leaking wheel cylinder seals and a weeping fluid coupling. Regards, Bob

I have never expected this thread would be a hot topic, but I thought I would offer an update anyway. The offending problem was grease that had gone sticky. At a glance it looked like disassembly would be straight forward, but as it turns out it was quite a puzzle. Many parts had to be loosened and rotated or moved to allow another parts to be accessed and then back to the earlier parts. A couple of photos are attached to show the main switch and the final product. If you look closely enough you can also see come all important black tape on a copper strap that is edgewise, where it runs precariously close to another of a differing polarity. Clive, I am not prosperous enough to need yacht varnish, although I did have some spar varnish for my canoe paddles but chose not to use it. I would not want you to be too disappointed in me so I finally found some red electrical insulating liquid that seals and dries hard. At the moment the box is in my freezer to make sure the grease I used will work in the middle of winter. Thanks to everyone for the help. Regards, Bob

Hello Again, Here is the thin update on what I found inside the Distribution Box. Apparently the main contacts have positive mechanical engagement when the handle is rotated to the ON position. But when it is turned OFF the switch relies on spring pressure to disengage them. The shaft and small keyway seen inside the bushing, have roughly 3/8” travel and comes flush with the end of the bushing when ON. When it is switched OFF it retracts about 1/8” with the spring pressure, but can be pushed another ¼”. May be a broken spring but feels more like old dried lube of some sort. My 2 new questions are……..what is the copper colored coating on all of the nuts and studs? It is hard and looks like armature enamel or Glyptol. To get the box the rest of the way out and apart I will have to break those connections and would like to know what purpose the coating serves and if it needs to be replaced? Secondly, does any one know if these contacts are intended to snap quickly into and out of position to avoid arcing? Or do they rely on all other loads being shut off at the time of engagement? To Chris and Mike, yes I did buy the new box on e-bay as you suggested. But I still feel the need to understand what has happened with this one. Thanks Again for the help. Regards, Bob

Welcome Rodney, Congratulations, you have just taken on a new life. Please feel free to ask lots of questions, that way I can also take advantage of the answers. I found out this winter that Robin is very correct about seals not liking the cold temps. Although the actual leakage occurred just after a single digit cold spell warmed up a bit. Large puddles indeed. Bob In Indiana

Hello, I have already disconnected the batteries for the moment. The odd part is the disconnect feels like it is engaging and disengaging when it should. I would have thought the plates corroding together would not allow the handle to turn. I will be able to have a look this weekend. Can you explain a bit more about what you mean by "handle top cover"? Thank You for the help Regards, Bob

Hello, I would appreciate a bit of guidance here. The weather finally warmed up so I thought it was time to try out the accumulator charger I had scrounged. That went well but the batteries were too low after a winter to do much more than roll the engine a few turns. When I turned the battery disconnect (Parts Manual says it is a Distribution Box No2 Mk1) off, the 2 red hydraulic warning lights stayed on. After a while I realized everything was still live and even though the disconnect seemed to be moving and felt correct, it was not disengaging. Is this a common problem? The exploded view in the manual does not show me much about how to attack it. I would guess it needs to come out to a bench top and be opened up. But I thought it worthwhile to ask here for some help, if you please. Thank you for your time . Regards, Bob

The gentleman I purchased the Saladin from imported vehicles into the USA and had many containers of bits pass his way. It appears he saved the best and most desirable pieces for his own vehicles and he was a stickler for detail. Well, at least he did well for someone on this side of the pond. I would have been surprised if the ammo boxes he mounted were incorrect. I do not remember them being loose in the supports, so I will check for internal spacers. Thank You for the education. I did not realize they had converted to 7.62 during their service life. But then again there is an awful lot I do not know yet. Regards, Bob

Hi Tobin, I have seen what you describe on the Ferret if it sits for too long, but this seems to be brake related and I do not know what type of seals are involved. I need to buy some from Bannister's so I can at least see how they are made and have them on hand if the do not reseal. Thanks for the reply. Regards, Bob

I am sure you are honest and correct about it not leaking. But one of the oddities about this sport that afflicts us, is that with diligence and hard work I am sure you will have it leaking again soon. Regards, Bob

Gents, I believe what you are telling me, but I am still puzzled as to why? I have a Ferret that leaks a bit of coolant when temps drop just below freezing, but stops when it is just above freezing. Do you have any theories as to why the Saladin brakes leak only when they warm back up? Of for that matter why the design is so prone to killing the seals so frequently? Does this also mean I should wait until warmer weather is here to stay before I replace them? I have pulled my parts manual and the only part I can find listed as a seal is on Plate G19 reference number 19 seal,taper LV6MT9/2530-99-836-6033 Is this the part that is failing and the number I need to order from Banisters? Anything else I need to know? Thanks again for all the help. Regards, Bob

These 2 photos are not ideal, but it is what I already had on hand. Hope it helps. Bob

Gents, Can you help with a bit of insight please. My recently acquired Saladin was very nicely restored by a precious owner several years ago but had always been kept in a heated building. For this first winter here in Indiana I cannot give it the same warm accommodations, although it is indoors. It has surprised me by being completely leak free, with not so much as a damp spot. We recently had some very cold weather, where for several days it was 8 degrees F ( -13C) and checking it daily, was still dry even after the weather warmed up to more normal temps. Then we had a single day where the high was 63F (17C) and that evening I had puddles at 4 of the 6 wheel stations. The trails were down the inside of the backing plates and tires. It appears to be hydraulic fluid so I am assuming the wheel cylinders are to blame. Is this a common situation with this type of vehicle? I can only theorize the metal wheel cylinder bores contracted in the cold weather and then when they expanded in the warmer temps the rubber cups did not make the trip with them. I am inclined to start her up and see if they will pump up and reseal, but thought I should check here with those who know before I made any large errors in judgment. Thanks for any help you can give. Regards, Bob

Gentlemen, I try never to miss an opportunity to show my ignorance. I was busy assuming when I should have been reading more closely. Thank you for the help. Always appreciated. Regards, Bob

Spelling corrected. Apologies I will assume 86 ZR 99 is a Staghound, but the other photos I have seen had a sloping front turret and twin hull hatches. Is this a different mark or have I completely misidentified the vehicle? Bob

I will assume 86 ZR 99 is a Staghound, but the ogther photos I have seen had a sloping front turret and twin hull hatches. Is this a different mark of have I completely misidentified the vehicle? Bob

Monty, So what are the black and brown critters in the 2nd photo?

So would you expect you will be replacing the motor, replacing the block, attempt welding the dreaded cast , or some sort of overlapping threaded inserts? Whatever it is, I hope it goes well. Regards, Bob

Hi Lee, Thanks for the link, I appreciate your effort. I see it was a recent thread. I am a bit embarrassed that I missed it before. I had no idea they were that rare. I may have to mark that one off my wish list. Regards, Bob

Hello, Could someone please post an image of an Electric Boiling Vessel that would be correct for a Saladin? Or direct me to a website where I could find it. I located some information on a Ferret site but I cannot make the images come up. Thanks for the help. Regards, Bob