sirhc
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Posts posted by sirhc
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Simon,
Yes it's a narrow track, ET puts the contract date at 66/67 but it could be younger depending on how many trailers the contract is for. The flap is for the water bowser that fits in these trailers.
I have a friend in the USA who has a stock of NOS vinyl tops for the M151 in the background if you need one!
Chris
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I would like the Fox one if you're selling them.
Chris
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I know 49AT37 would definitely look even better with NOS CVRT track added!!
The track on it is less worn than the NOS track I fitted to mine 200 miles ago! They must have changed it just before casting the vehicle.
Chris
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That doesn't look like enough fuel to me, I would have thought you'd have at least half the bottle. I'd check air isn't getting in at the fuel change over tap, and check the things Griff suggested.
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That's coming together very nicely, Chris. Mind you, if you thought those wheels were scabby, take a look at these ...
Andy
Ok Andy, I think you win that one!
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I took a few days off this week to get the running gear painted and a better set of wheels fitted. We've done this job a few times now and the easiest way to do it is break the track, jack up the vehicle and place it on stands then remove the wheels.
These were the worst CVR(T) roadwheels I've ever seen... it's amazing the rubber was still stuck to them, but shows what a hard life this one has had.
Up on stands and ready to begin...
We also fitte a set of Armstrong dampers, new link arms, bump stops etc and then painted everything.
The sprockets were as worn out as the roadwheels, so a set of as new take offs were painted and fitted.
With this side back together, the vehicle was moved over and the job was repeated on the other side.
The sprockets on this side were a nightmare to get off and we had to resort to using a big hammer. You can see from the condition of the spacer plate how corroded it all was. A new spacer has been fitted.
We will service all the hubs prior to painting them, and the wheels. The next job is the turret....
Chris
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I'm sick of the sight of them, having changed all 20 on the Sabre we're doing! If Tim doesn't come back with anything, I'll measure one up tomorrow.
Chris
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Looking much better!
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LV9BTN/2990-99-848-7388
I believe this is for 10 ton 6x6 vehicles according to Clives lists
Chris
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I use paint from Crosbie Coatings (http://www.crosbie-casco.co.uk/crosbie/home.htm) - we buy Airspeed 251 quick dry matt finish. I've not found a paint which goes on as nicely and matches as well. This year I fitted a pair of NOS rear idlers to my Sabre and didn't paint them, but you couldn't tell. The service and price is also excellent, they will deliver to your door.
Chris
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milweb
in MV Chatter
It costs nothing to advertise on milweb for non traders, so chancers put vehicles on there for stupid prices hoping someone with more money than sense will buy.That depends on whos defnition of 'trader' you're working to.
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Had a look on the Morris website and spoke to them and they only do the ISO10 in 25 litre drums, which is ok if you have a fleet of tanks (Chris) but not if you only want 5 litres? Any other suggestions?
Try Marcus Glenn.
OM15 mineral oil Ref: MG10751
Replaces OM13 - £22.00 + VAT per 5 litres.
http://www.marcusglenn.com/catalog/viewphoto.php?shoph=10751&phqu=1
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The correct oil for the Ferret fluid fly wheel is OEP220 (that's what it says on the October 1984 Servicing Schedule!) and EP90 (easily available) is the same stuff.
No it isn't! The correct oil for the flywheel is ISO10 hydraulic fluid. Most people use Luquimatic no 1 from Morris Lubricants.
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It sounds like a mk 1 widetrack 3/4 Ton trailer to me. I had 23GT45 (from memory) which was identical to the one you describe aside from the jockey wheel... And was actually made by Sankey too.
Chris
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I do have a tin of the correct aluminium paint which I will use to tidy up all the interior brackets, turret basket etc. The hull interior on this one is White, I have some of the correct stuff but it seems to peel off when fuel is spilt on it. I did the last one with White bilge paint from the boat yard and it worked a really well, so plan to use it again.
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Chris,
I'm sure I asked this before but i'm not sure I ever got an answer. The AT registration, is that the later build for the RAF Regiment that then got turned back to the Army later?
R
That's correct, this one was built in the early 80s and never had any of the wading screen stuff fitted.
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Time for an update. Last weekend we were finally able to get back on with this Sabre. I hadn't seen it since December, but I put some batteries on it and connected up a jerry can to the fuel pump and it fired straight away. We did have a small problem of a wasps nest to deal with first. We needed to move this one back home as we can work on it much easier when we have electricity and water.
Ready to leave for home
Back at the house and on with the cleaning
The first job was to start preparing it for some paint. We had already removed the old exhaust heat shield material as it was mostly falling off anyway. I used a wire brush on an angle grinder to clean up the glue, then finished off the new material we started making a while ago.
I found some very good high temperature contact adhesive for sticking the new material back on, it seems to have worked a treat. I am planning to use this to stick the interior padding and hatch pads back on.
I went round the rest of the hull and removed the surface rust and the last few bits of paint the sand blaster missed with a needle gun and wire brush. Then on with some primer. I am going to do this in 4 stages, first the hull, then the turret, remove the wheels etc and do the running gear, and finally the front decks once I've finished walking up and down them all day.
With the primer on, it was time for some top coat. Sadly most of this paint will be covered up by bins etc once it's assembled, but at least now it's green we can start to put the bins back on.
Here's the finished and painted heat shield material.
The last job for today was to sort out some new headlamp guards and front bins. This vehicle seems to have been convered in a hurry, the headlamp guards were only held on by 2 bolts each so we had to line up and drill a few more holes. I put some new halogen lamp units in at the same time.
Next weekend I'll do the turret. Eventually I have a new exhaust to put on, but it actually sounds very quiet with this old one on for the time being.
That's all for now!
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Well if you show me yours, I'll show you mine!
I'll get some pics of both of my types & compare with yours. Would be nice to know the difference.
Cive,
Some photos for you...
Firstly a Champion RSN12Y with an identity crisis..
Lodge SRL14L
Lodge SRL14L marked as RTC4732.
Chris
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Chris I managed to find some SRL14PC & SRL14P today. They certainly appear identical to each other & no there wasn't an omission of the final C as it was stamped SRL14P-
All of these (4 x SRL14PC & 2 x SRL14P) were date stamped. The ones I could read were 1955 & 1960 so I think they must have come from my FV1601.
I have some more SRL14Ls in the garage, I'll dig them out over the next few days and see what's written on them. I think some are in Land Rover boxes.
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Chris do you know the significance of those 3 Lodge suffixes?
Clive.. No I don't, but they seemed to be identical to the 12Ys so I stuck them in and they cured the problem!
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I have used the Lodge SRL14L in our J60s with no issues. Can't imagine it would be a problem in your B60.
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Mark,
I wasn't trying to put you off, just factor in around £4 per mile for fuel and other running costs. You will need to collect spares when you see them as they can be expensive and hard to find when you need them.
Remember that they are current in service vehicles, and although the MoD use diesel variants, everyone else is still on the petrol ones. This means when things like exhaust manifolds etc do come up for sale they are expensive. Withams are scrapping lots of J60 engines, so you would be best buying 3 or 4 for parts, even just for carbs and ignition modules etc.
You can drive one on L plates, I did for a while before taking the test in my own vehicle. That way I knew it well enough to book a test myself and do it on the streets around my house, saving around £600.
Spartan is probably the best entry level vehicle, they are cheap, plenty of room, easier to learn to drive as you can see the instruments and controls... you can't in a turreted variant.
Chris
P.S. also remember that a Stormer is more than 2.55m wide.
techical question ?
in MV Chatter
Posted
You also have to remember that tracked AFVs are not the same as plant and construction equipment. They are designed to travel for long distances at fairly high speed. You would need some very big motors to power a 70tonne main battle tank over a muddy field at 40mph.