robin craig

I also did a Shorland based on likely the same plans from back then. Model came out nice but after a few moving adventures it was toast and got binned. Sadly no pictures from that one. I did also do some of the 1/24 scale Esci ones and still have a hoarding of those kits (now being re released I see) and some of those Monogram 1/24 scale 88" kits. I copied Bob's article and did the Heathrow hardtop, that is also toast now. Was just discussing with my good lady about where to set up a model table at home, negotiations still underway on exact location. Got my daughter to get the me 110 Wolf for Christmas to cut my teeth on again. Thinking of an assembly line fresh vehicle build, all mint and shiny and pretty. R

Welcome, I am also in Canada you will note. R

Welcome in, but pictures pictures pictures please! Why dont you start a little thread of your own something like " Today in the Lower Wigglesbottom on Stoke Museum" and post what you guys are up to in the shop etc, we will all want to read your trivia and see what you are doing. Seeing as how you are into Ferrets and other such post war kit you cant be all bad! R

Many Land Rovers were delivered in DBG and then over painted at units. Eventually the specs from the MOD changed and they were delivered in a matt green. When this change over happened is fuzzy as far as I can tell. I think the mid to late 1970s would be the rough time of the change from my dim distant memory. I remember the S3 109 CL soft tops and the 88s that were the main stay of many a depot driving school fleet came in both DBG and matt green but most that I saw were matt green. Over to the other Land Rover rivet counters . . R

Howdy, I am unsure as to whether you are asking about 1:1 scale or in 1:35 scale. The short answer is yes to both by the way. Years ago, Bob Morrison did a whole series of articles on the real life and scale model variants of military Land Rovers, they are timeless and should really be the benchmark of your research. Yes I am a scale model maker also, but not for a few years, and yes I am a Land Rover lunatic as well. I do have those articles, buried in a 20 ft sea container, somewhere. R

Jon, that is all well and good, but where are the pictures of the vehicle they will attach to, more Fox stuff please! R

Welcome in to the forum, from the owner of 2 Canadian Mk1 Ferrets Maybe you worked on them. R

Ian, That plate helps, I know we have numbers all down the sides. What about the method of securing? Do you have some pictures of those too? By the way, where is that plate located? Thank you R

Clive, yes that is what I was referencing about having had the answer once before, I am embaressed to say that. Richard you may also be correct as far as containers but ours is a van body affair. Right now we have some ugly J hooks along the sides and a horrible cross chain affair at the front. There is no give in any of this and I want to do better and safer. This was cobbled together in Grantham prior to export. From the looks of the Crusader 80 folks website there is a "proper" system that is better. I'm thinking that I want something that has some stiff coil springs to allow some give to the hold downs. Just one of many tasks to get done this year. Would also love to make some air over hydraulic jacking legs to take advantage of the already present air on the Bedford to lift it off and drive out from underneath. R

The collective name for anyone involved or owning tracked vehicles is interesting. In the scale model making world we called armour builders "tread heads". In the Canadian Forces they are often called "zipperheads" I think around here we should call them "brave" or "deep pockets". Welcome in chum R

This thread is kind of split into long term and short term chargers. For my money on the long term "maintenance" charging of batteries for extended periods of time, CTEK make the most effective units having the biggest spread of usages. If you go on www.CTEK.com and select your user area you will see what is around. Currently we are using what is available to us, which is 110v input 12v output with a disconect with a thumb screw affair on it. We hard wire the charging lines into the batteries and plumb the cables out to the drivers area and secure with P clips. Now here is the good part, the CTEK units come with a well made polarised quick disconect unit part way on the lines to the chargers. We extend the lines where required. We have also found that the ring terminals are not big enough and replace these and solder them into the lines. So far we have a 436, Spartan, Sabre and Stormer on these units. My only chagrin is that the North American importer does not bring in a 110v input 24v output unit a sold in some European countries. Our cost is around $80 Cdn per unit. Pictures show Sabre with deck off and disconnects just behind the driver and the other is the units themselves. R

Welome in, does your interest cross over into civvy Hummers? If it does pm me R

Dear Dan and Jen, could you possibly update your profile page so it gives us a location in the world for you that appears in the top right of every post you make? Congrats on her saying "yes". The fact that Jen takes part in this restoration is very cool. Do we presume your family name is NEMETH? What do you do for a living? Would you be a farmer? Very impressive work done using some very admirable skills that someone has taught you. You make me feel very inadequate about my lack of skills. Wonderful thread, love reading it Robin

40 views and no comments, someone must have some pictures or drawings I can crib. R

Pardon the possible repost. I am drawing a blank trolling the forum for the answer which I thought someone had posted before. I am looking for what is the "issue" or "correct" tie downs for a workshop body to the deck of an MJ cargo. Can anyone show me pictures of what they use or what was proper in service standard attachments. We feel what we have is cobbled together and not that safe and would like to improve on it. Thanks R

Do you think they were original sales to that country or do you think they are surplus vehicles sold more recently? Looks like they need a bit of TLC, various tyre sizes being used in place of the 9.00 X 16s. R

Pinch away but please give a credit as to the source etc etc R

When I post a question like this and the responses come back with so much information it really makes me glad that I have managed to get all this information out into the public domain to hopefully be around for a very long time as a resource for others. Thanks Gents R

For quite a while now I have known but have not posted something that may be useful to others. In and around a BV206 there are a number of sockets for 24volt power, one on the dash, two out front for the blackout lamps and one on the back of the rear car. Curiously they look exactly the same as a socket on our New Holland TS90 tractor, shown here with the name Britax moulded onto the cover. For anyone wanting to plug anything in to these sockets you will need a corresponding male plug. The New Holland part number for that plug is 86508819 and retails over here for $ 11.08 Cdn. Hope this helps someone. Regards R

Photos of what you are doing would help us help you mate R

Justin, welcome in, is that a Scottorn powered trailer for the 109 Land Rover Harrier fire crash truck that I spied in your "collection" photos? R

Dear Mr Ex A Mech, can we have a first name for you, pretty please? I see you do volunteer work, maybe we can pitch you an air fare and bring you out here . . . . In the collection I manage we have a few flavours you might recognise, Stormer, Sabre, Spartan, Ferret, FV436, Bedford, Land Rover, BV206, CVR(W) Fox . . . . It does get sunny and warm here, sometimes . . Welcome along, look forward to your input here Regards Robin

Richard, It just goes to show that your advice risk evaluated phactor rating is too low, should be upped to at least a 25 rating. R

Richard, very simple REP = Risk Evaluated Phactor (new euro phoentic spelling, ice cream has been changed to Hice cream) This is as a result of new euro parliament ruling that all forum operators clearly denote the risk factor possible if new members act on your advice given on the forum. It is kind of a Helath and Safety warning flag that follows you around like the cloud around Pig Pen from Charlie Brown. Very serious issue that euro crats slept long and hard to dream up. R

Call sign is correct, that is what is on the vehicle. In my older pictures there never were zap numbers, just call signs. When did zap numbers start? Paint code from your mate will be good R