fv1609

Got round the problem without the need to mess with dyes. Got the correct dark uniform now.

03 SP 39 03 SP 40 03 SP 41 03 SP 42 Were all Strikers, although 03 SP 39 was converted to a SITV (System Integration Test Vehicle).

Matt, that's good news. The most likely fault in the panel is corrosion on the points of the vibrating contact regulator or fracture of the carbon piles. I once went round in circles when I assumed a sealed NOS panel would be bound to work. It didn't & was partially corroded inside. I replaced it with a panel that was all battered & lying in the mud in a scrapyard, that one worked perfectly & no corrosion inside.

Mark, oh I see. Was there another thread on this somewhere? I would check the fuse is ok. The end one on the block of four, has a white wire going in & green wire coming out exclusively supplies the fuel gauge. Check also the micro-switches in the fuel change over switch are still ok & also check earth point on the fuel tanks. But are you sure your oil & temp gauges are actually electric? If they are, then they are also supplied by that same fuse that feeds the green wire. Maybe your oil & temps gauges are not electric! But capillary operated & the thin capillary tube has been punctured & you have lost the ether or whatever they put in it. Broadly speaking if yours is of the era with Gen Panel No 3 or earlier & you have 2 ammeters on the dash you will have capillary temp gauges. If you have the Gen Panel No.4 & a single ammeter in the shunt box, you will have electric gauges for oil & water temperature.

It was incorrectly codified as 2510-99-817-7541. The NSC 2510 is for vehicular cab, body & frame structural components. Implying an integral structural component. It has now been re-codified as 1080-99-817-7541. The NSC 1080 being for camouflage & deception equipment, in line with what has been stated. It seems to include components: FV952500 FV952582 FV952594 FV952595

Mark, if you are looking for a stabiliser for the instruments, you will not find one in a 24v Rover, although they were fitted in 12v Rovers. Or are you talking about means of dropping the 24v supply down to 10v for the coil? If that is the case it is a black metal box with vent slats in the top about 5in x 3in x 3in. This will be mounted on a LtWt above the rocker cover on a mounting shared with the coil. Apart from providing some filter of ignition pulses it houses two wire-wound resistance totally 4.4 ohms. Although this is not a stabilised supply, the voltage drop is dependant on the current drawn by the coil. So don't be tempted to try to suck off a lower voltage from this to run a CD player or something. Because when the points open the voltage at the output will rise to 24v.:shake:

Ted, I remember some years ago seeing a mobile dental surgery at Cosford. But I think that was a trailer, I couldn't bring myself to photograph the thing with all its paraphernalia inside. :shake:

Ted, this truck was restored about 20 years ago. I don't know where it is now, but maybe you might like to volunteer for a bit of living history at the sharp end! :shake:

Well they have led you astray Ted. I was surprised to see that number as you post knowledgeably on RAF MT matters. 2 as a yellow shade looked immediately wrong. Anyway an excuse to list BSC381C colours for general reference for all. 3-digit colour notation first digit is colour group. 1 - blue, turquoise 2 - green 3 - yellow, cream & buff 4 - brown & pink 5 - orange & red 6 - grey 7 - purple, violet eg: Sky Blue = 101 Deep Bronze Green = 224 Signal Red = 537 Light Admiralty Grey = 697

What remains of my FV1601 was at one stage a breakdown truck. Then got made into a hard top for use with an ATC unit. As you know many did seem to end up as breakdown trucks. But there were official plans to produce a Lorry, 1-Ton, 4x4, Breakdown, FV1606. This is quoted in some books but no details are ever given. I have never found any details in the museums (Bovy, Beverley & REME) However I am the proud owner of 57/Vehs A/2900 (GS(W)2) which is the War Office Specification for it (being higher up the chain from FDD/FVRDE). It was intended to recover other Humbers, but the project never progressed presumably for the reason we all know that Humbers don't breakdown :-D

I think that was a typo for 356

It used to hang around Duxford. According to the Max Richards Humber Register it should really be 05 BK 71. That doesn't tally though as that ERM was a FV1601 struck off on 22/5/64. I believe it is in the hands of Roger from Essex. I'm sure it will be properly cared for in his hands. He was at W&P last year with a FV1601 dressed up as a FV1604 by a previous owner. It went through a number of owners & Roger has started work on it. Superb effort & workmanship. Welding up a Pig is one thing but fabricating bodywork for a non-armoured Humber requires great skill.

Flicking through a 1957 catalogue, quite a few ex-RAF Matadors going for as much as £750, Jeeps £60, AEC ACVs for £270 & 10-cwt trailers £170 for a dozen. Also a half-track "with radar equipment" withdrawn from sale.

Because I assume it is not in service with the British Army. These men do not look like British troops in complexion, stature & uniform. This is confirmed by the Greek flag which would not be adorning a British vehicle. Not only are there non-standard mods, which look primitive, but the rear light cluster is smashed I would have thought any REME LAD would not let that remain for long & there is a non-standard mirror of a different colour. The bridge plate has been painted over, British vehicles of Pig weight not only displayed the disc in yellow but it was marked up with its bridge class. In fact the weight of vehicles over many bridges was a very touchy subject with the local leaders. So much so that sometimes understated weights were displayed to get around local objections! British Pigs in Cyprus were invariably sand coloured. This colour looks very dark & is probably dark blue almost black, a colour used later on Shorlands by the Greek Cypriot Police. So I assume these soldiers are their forerunners.

BM circa 1953-4 for 'B' Vehicles. Included some Brockhouse trailers, Tecalmit-Sentinel trailers, Militants, Macks, RLs, Leyland FV1100 series, Albions, Super Snipes, Vanguards & even some White half-tracks.

I have 4 mercury tilt switches if anyone wants to build an alarm system based on movement.

Mark, yes very nice I remember those. I got one from Pride & Clarke for 12/6 in 1958. Yours looks very complete with filters both the boxes & reading light. ISTR there should be an intensity filter, consisting of 2 black metal discs with something like 6 or 8 holes in each. The discs are rotated to line up the holes & rotated to alter the apertures. But you may have it inside the lamp itself. I think it was something like an 18w bulb. I broke mine & could never find a replacement so had to salvage the base & solder in something else.

Mark when you say you have 24v at the terminals, where are you measuring the -ve from? Use that earth point to stimulate the earthy end of the meter & see if they kick. I suspect you may be picking up what should be an earth point on the instrument cluster which is not functioning. The earthing arrangements for the instrument cluster are pathetic & the earth lead is held onto an instrument cluster clamp with an alloy hand turned nut. It would be extraordinary for all 3 meters to die simultaneously, so looks very much an earthing issue. Particularly as the metals involved are dissimilar & the nut can only be finger tight. Tightening the nut with pliers just bends the retaining clamps. As a further check with an ohmmeter, the meters should be very very roughly 100 ohms.

Paul, I think you need to buy yourself a decent meter otherwise you'll never know where you are if test equipment can't be relied upon. Yes replace the condenser. Failure in the effectiveness of the condenser not only impedes engine performance but leads to premature failure of the points from the effects of arcing. Anyway you must feel very satisfied, so now you won't be visiting then?

Yes that's what I did & just used the cylinders. I only mentioned 54in as that was the length of the ones I used. I don't know which of the 3 Ferret types it was. But at least the Humber ones are all the same, although none are the same as Ferret. The same cylinder is also used on the front of Morris MRA1. Well to my mind Chris, doing any internal work on a Ferret is a nightmare of a job!

The actual cylinder is the same, the problem is the cable length. On Ferret it is about 54 in but on a Humber only 39 in. I know one could shorten the cables....but these are brake cables & I don't want to mess around doing that sort of thing. I have used Ferret assemblies just to use the cylinder part but I suspect nowadays that is never going to be a cheap option!

Unobtainable! In 15 years of always looking for Humber bits I only once found some for sale. That was over 10 years ago & was on a Jeep stall! They didn't know what they were & after many years of carting them around were pleased to off load them. You will have to dismantle them & apply some WD40 & probably gentle heat to free them up. Hone them & use new cups from John Walker. Re-assembly is where the fun begins. On the MOT issue. I have just re-taxed my pig. If I go to a main PO they usually refuse to tax it & suggest I go to a LVLO. That is because they are all on a bonus for the number of people processed per hour & anything unusual is ignored if at all possible. On the other hand the village PO is pleased to see you. Every year the V112G/R is carefully scrutinised, but today there was a locum who didn't take a great deal of interest in the V112G/R. Although the V11 stated a MOT Certificate was required, his concern was whether the Swansea computer required the MOT. It apparently didn't, so I was alright. Leaves me wondering if I really needed to present a V112G/R after all?

Come here & I'll test your condenser & rotor arm then sand blast your plugs. Fuel is it fresh in both tanks? Have you checked your timing & points gap? I had two difficult problems on the Shorland recently. Plenty of fuel with new fuel pump, rebuilt carb & plenty of HT. The bullet connector from the CB lead to the coil was only working intermittently & a fault on the fuel pump. The new fuel pump had been assembled incorrectly the spindle supporting the the diaphragm had not been turned sufficiently to engage it fully, so sometimes it managed to pump sometimes it didn't. Not the sort of thing you expect from a sealed box!

Peter, hope this helps. I have drawings of towing arrangement if you want.