fv1609

I must send you a pic of how that modified mounting was wired up. On the original conversions, it was a year or so before it was realised the oil had been going in the wrong direction & Workshop Instruction issued to remodify the oil flow arrangements.

Glad it has arrived with all the obvious bits on the outside still there. Hope the same applies to the stuff on the inside.

Paul You should get a resistance reading of 5 ohms across pins A & B, which are for the solenoid winding. The circuit diagram in the User Handbook & Parts List is incorrect for Mk 2/1. It shows B as having no connection. In fact the -ve of the solenoid winding does go to B as well as the main starter -ve. (It is correct for the Mk 2) I would find out the price of this rear axle first. I thought you were having this one off me, I think you will find it is considerably cheaper. But mine is from a GS so the transfer box has different ratios. But if your axle shaft(s) have failed maybe the transfer box is usable? But if you go for this other one do make sure it is pig to ensure you are getting the correct transfer box for your money. I have a wooden jig made up to assist in supporting a complete rear axle, you can have. When you do it make sure you are on level ground. Make sure the front wheels are seriously chocked & support the rear with substantial things. It is scary underneath with no rear axle. I have some railway sleepers you can use.

Me too! If those magazines were at least 50% in service photos I would buy both every month. No you wouldn't but time takes its toll. I restored my Shorland 22 years ago. I hadn't moved it for 12 years & I am now paying the price. With other things going on, it will be several years before it will be re-restored. So I am going to try to get it up to a safe running restoration ASAP. The priority has always to be automotive first with emphasis on wheels, tyres & brakes. Then fancy bits including painting & then rubbing down chassis etc. As I dismantle bodywork & armour to get to components logic would suggest I work on the chassis & internal bodywork, but this will take to long. Once it is running well & got new paintwork externally I will take it to shows again. Over successive winters I can dismantle bits again & do a thorough job. But if I try to get it all sorted in one go then it won't be out & about for a few years. I want to enjoy it now, so running restorations are fine in my book.

In what way? Paul, have you been testing it out of the vehicle with jump leads as I suggested? Does the solenoid at least work? If it does does the starter draw any current? If it does do the battery volts stay up? Is the any movement from the shaft?

I knew I shouldn't have said so much got carried away with timings. I thought this ended at 1443 but it ended at 1434:red: The joys of dyslexia. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300294066667

The problem was that he only deals with Rover part numbers. I can see the reason for that as it avoids ambiguity. He couldn't seem to accept that I didn't have a part number. He felt that all vehicles of any sort have a parts list & I should obtain one of these & quote from it. Well Shorts produced a User Handbook/Parts List unfortunately that only covered the non-Rover items. He was unable to measure the stud or confirm the number of turns to the longer thread. He did however reveal the earlier no. 217360 was slightly longer than the replacement stud. I thought the number change was just a number change, you know what Rovers are like! He was insistent on selling the studs as well although I had some. He felt they would be "worn out", I got the feeling that he might not sell me the studs alone. Given that he could well be the only source in the world, as he has them manufactured specially. I went along with the nuts as well, so I took a gamble & it was ok.

Handle starting LV9/BOE/FV275970

I wouldn't dream of it, it was difficult enough explaining what I wanted. On another forum there was a warning not to mention the internet, which he feels is a waste of time apparently.

There seem to be five categories of restoration one could aim for, all equally legitimate. As it left the factory. As it would be tarted up for an annual inspection As it would be in daily usage As it would be in battle As it would be stored in used condition in a vehicle depot Hopefully just marked & kitted out only with the paraphernalia that it would have for that role eg a vehicle restored with depot marked stencilling wouldn't have a gun & flags on it. I get the feeling that some judging seems to take no account of whether the vehicle shows signs of proper servicing. I have seen awards go to vehicles that clearly have had a lot of effort applied, but many features on it that don't reflect the actual state of affairs in service. But do we have to have judging at all? I declined to be judged on a vehicle that I didn't restore, the judge asked if I wanted to change my mind as there would be a prize. But what would be the point in that? I have won prizes when I thought some other vehicles were more deserving. Do we really need judging anyway? I know below I proudly proclaim that I did get a first prize 19 years ago. The joke is I was the only armoured vehicle there! So doesn't mean much really :-)

I know what you are getting at. The nuts seems shorter because it appears fatter than it really is, there is quite a shadow under the lower edge of the nut. I took lots of pics but whatever angle I approached it the shadows kept appearing somewhere around the nut. Also on the double dome nuts the thread stops 1.5mm from end of nut. So the end of the stud is about 1mm inside nut end of the 3 original hubs. What I wanted to avoid was the short stud being too recessed inside the nut & not recognising that it was undoing. Don't want that to happen again!

The wreck, now is that the pig or the owner? Sorry Paul you must feel wrecked but chin up, forwards & upwards etc. No joy? Not even a click when you join "A" to +ve? Yes but its in CMV mag it would have been on Miliweb months ago?

Yes well done,Tony. You obviously know the device well. But does it work?

Standby I can feel another coming on.

Yes it is. I thought the coast would be clear tonight, I thought being a Sat night you would be down the discotheque (do they still have those?)

Oh yes I'm afraid it is.

Yes Norman it is. Once you start realising the scarcity of what you are looking for, to eventually have the said item gives a great deal of satisfaction & relief. I had got accustomed to the shortage of Humber parts, but had assumed any Rover bit would be a doddle. But neither of these beat the difficulties of trying to get bits for our Tata. We waited 14 months for a wiper motor to come from India, even if it had been sent by rowing boat it should have arrived quicker!

Any ideas of this conveyance?

EUREKA! From L.R.Fasteners, Bolton 01204 302589. As the name suggests, he has a comprehensive stock of fasteners for most Rovers.

Paul test it before you refit it again. Connect jump leads to the terminals (should be marked) securely tape them in place to make sure they don't spring off or touch the case when the thing jolts into action. Then connect the batteries, carefully take a small jump lead from pin A to the + terminal to activate the solenoid. The gear on the shaft should shoot to the end of the shaft as it revolves. Unless you can demonstrate it works in that configuration, it is a waste of more time just putting it back in again.

The prefix indicates a design specification for a vehicle or vehicle associated item. It originates from FVDD (Fighting Vehicle Design Dept) formed in 1945 under the direction of the MOS (Ministry of Supply). It became the FVDE (Fighting Vehicle Design Establishment) & then the FVRDE (Fighting Vehicle Research & Development Establishment) in 1953. In 1959 the MOS was abolished & the War Office took control via the Master of General Ordnance. Although the FVRDE was formed into MVEE (Military Vehicle Engineering Establishment) under the ultimate control of the MOD(Army), the FV prefix was retained. So whether it is a complete vehicle or a tiny piece of metal or a piece of canvas, FV indicates a vehicular association.

FV591679 comes up as "Shelter, Canvas" FV591689 comes up as "Blackout, Curtain, Shelter" None of these correspond to components of the more commonly used tentage. FV2200773 comes up as "Tarpaulin" & is coded 2540-99-582-5606 Note the NSC 2540 indicates it is vehicular rather than the others which are 8340 which is for tentage. It would have been nice if they had applied a DMC (Domestic Management Code) as that would have indicated for what vehicle it was intended. (Like the radhaz kit had the DMC of 7/XD indicating it was for Wolf) Made by B.I.Engineering, Northampton. They make radiators & cooling systems for AFVs, currently these are Titan & Trojan, although 2001 predates these particular AFVs. So maybe this is a radiator or ventilator cover?

Yes thats' the CAV one. You are right it is much easier to work on than the Simms. I also carry a starting handle it is quite easy to start on the handle.

Oh I see, Neil but I thought you were thinking in terms of how shall we say, Cpl Jones's view on coping with the locals :cool2: