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Paul you will have better access it you remove the nearside front wheel & then the side armour panel. That will mean you can really get in there rather than trying to reach down from the top with elongated arms not really seeing what you are doing & blocking your light. But access is everything & time spent with the wheel & panel off will save time & frustration. Be careful removing the two fat power leads to the motor. The plastic insulators are quite brittle & gently ease off the terminals making sure you've slackened the clamping bolts. Make sure you have isolated the battery as there is a permanent live connection to the starter motor. When you have got if off make sure the bendix gear can move up & down the shaft. But it will depend which type of starter you have the CAV (most common), Simms (less common) or Bosch (very rare).

Paul first thing to check is there a click from the starter motor when you turn it on? That means the solenoid is working. Most likely cause is either some of that salty Portsmouth air has corroded the terminals a bit, but mostly likley is that your carbon brushes have worn down. Isolate or disconnect the batteries, then disconnect the two fat power leads to the motor then the little multi-way plug that supplies the solenoid. Remove the motor I think it is three bolts. Whatever version of starter motor it is take the rear cover off. Identify the carbon brushes on their springs & lift them out of their holders. Now this is a bodge but it works for me. I know one should use new brushes etc. But roughly judge the rectangular sides of the brushes, then look for some old motor or go to a vacuum repair shop & buy brushes of similar size. Then trim them with a fret saw & shape with sandpaper to make up a block of carbon that will freely slide into the brush holder. Then replace the original brushes on top of the new bits & that will last you for years. Gloves essential when handling the brushes, very messy otherwise.

The ingenuity & humour of contestants knows no bounds. I have not been hiding because someone was getting close, simply my wife has been hogging the connection..... to ebay :shake: I'm afraid I don't know how big they were, but big enough to do damage. Antarmike & gritintheye seem to have got it, with the conviction that it is a close quarters weapon. I had never heard of this thing before it comes from a book written in 1852. When you google this you will find that it has the same name as some software which makes finding much out about it quite difficult. But one other source put its use in Roman times & soldiers were armed with two of them.

These predate guns.

Getting very warm.

They might well be useful for that, but not their intended purpose.

When these were used, soldiers were issued with two of them.

Yes, Philip = Philip Bashall of Dunsfold

To fit in with the rest of the worlds automotive industry! Although it was claimed that we used positive earth as some components corroded less readily. Although I'm not sure if that is true as it is usually the positive terminal that becomes more corroded than the negative. Not a major point but, at the time of the change, it saw the reduction in the use of PNP transistors which were most conveniently configured in a positive earth circuit. Whereas the new NPN transistors lent themselves to a negative earth arrangement.

What a cornucopia of ingenuity, inventiveness & downright filthy minds. I have not been disappointed though. Nick I might resort to that & Richard, naughty boy...peeping again! It's none of those things. It came from a publication circa 1847, by which time it had ceased general usage as far as I can see.

Clue. The cord is for retrieving it after use.

Yes I thought you lot would like it. It's not any of the suggestions so far (or even implied). Just got to wait for RF to come along now.

I rang Philip. He recognised the problem & knew what I needed. He searched his stock but was unable to come up with anything. He suggested LR Fasteners as probably the only place where I could get what I need. I rang him, he said he only worked with part numbers as then there was no misunderstanding. It took some explaining that Shorts did not produce a parts book that covered the studs. They produced a user handbook combined with a parts book, but that covered all the items which were generally not Land Rover. Anyway it turns out that the old stud 217360 superseded by 561590, was not just a renumbering. The earlier stud is about 3mm longer, so this sounds to be what I'm after. So fingers crossed. The ebay seller I questioned 3 days ago has not bothered to reply.

Interesting device here, anyone?

Apparently not. The Sheriff of Buffalo (I think) not only has a Pig, but a Saracen & a Ferret to assist in his duties. A Pig on ebay in the summer was exported to a US law enforcement agency. A few years ago a Canadian Police Pig distinguished itself in drawing a bank raid to a close.

Yes thank you both. I don't have a mil IPC earlier than Rover 10 & 11. My civy 2A IPC just has the 2.6 the same as the other hubs. I did a search for LR Fasteners & he seems to be a well thought of dealer. Although the advice was when you ring, don't mention the internet as he regards it as a waste of time.

Jack, the term 'earth' (or in the US they say 'ground') can have several meanings, literal or not. In this context it is the point in the circuit that has zero potential. The chassis is the most convenient place for this to be.

You shouldn't believe everything he says, you're far too impressionable.

Wonder why it was de-gutted. Bit like looking at a radio set & realising its only a front panel & case. You would have thought they could have wound the torsion bars down to make it stand right. 15 BK 67 ? I'm not entirely sure that is its correct ERM. Did you get a chance to see the chassis plate whilst you were checking it for its major components?

In the IPC this stud 561886 appears as the serrated alternative to the threaded 561590, which is too short & I'm sure is the one I have on my hub. Counting the turns & translating those to the serrated area gave me the impression it might have been longer. I hoped the vendor would have measured them for me. Although they are more expensive than other dealers, if he has gone to the trouble of taking pictures for his advert & hopefully answering my questions, I was going to buy from him. In the same way if a shop is prepared to give me advice on a product I will buy it there rather than sneak of to buy it on-line where there a no such staff or overheads. I have looked at Philip's stock list & did a search for "studs" (no funny comments please) I wrote down the part numbers for them all & did searches to find out what they were. I didn't unearth anything that was eligible. Originally I was thinking of a complete hub, but as hopes for that faded, spurred on by the cheapness of studs I was drawn to changing them myself. But it is just so frustrating not being able to identify a part number.

I think I might be onto something: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SERIES-1-and-Early-2-LAND-ROVER-WHEEL-STUDS-SET-OF-10_W0QQitemZ230295234171QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item230295234171&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318 Now these look long enough & although are serrated, I don't know whether they can simply be banged in to a threaded hole or require reaming. I had been looking for screw-in studs, but maybe these were an improved replacement to be used on a tapped hole? I have asked the seller for the length & whether they fit the double domed nut 217361. I can now see other dealers have them for about a third the price, but there is minimal info on their lists.

Andrew, well that's certainly a relief to hear someone else was faced with the same problem. I have the IPC for Rovers 10 & 11 but they use the short stud. Well if you turn up a part no. that would be something tangible to go on.

Simon, ok thank you. I'll put him on the list for when I start ringing round. Trying to explain on the phone seems better than emailing. In the past I have found emailing companies with a problem is ignored or gets a "Can't help you mate". Was just hoping to be able to quote a part number. At the moment I'm trawling through dealer's online catalogues looking at all studs. Many give no description so I try & cross reference it to somewhere else with particular interest in early part numbers.

Ah thank you I see the significance of the groove now. Yesterday I was looking in a 2B catalogue but the studs were the short ones same as 2A & 2A with ENV. I can find the longer studs with serrations & was considering whether to bash those in. But I don't know how much clearance I might need to create, but at least the stud has a small head to it. Then the worst that could happen is that it could spin rather than fall out!

Yes I was forgetting that aspect of it. Well I look forward to seeing all of your "non-existent" Rovers in the summer & I don't what to be interfered with!