fv1609

Yes the belly plate is just for protection, nothing will fall apart when you remove it. But it is quite heavy & you don't want that crashing down on you as you remove the final bolts. So you need to support it on some wooden blocks or similar. Sand alone but no evidence of Light Stone paint would suggest someone just off-roading it I would think.

This is the routing of the cables for Rover 11 24v The shunt box to ammeter harness is 11ft 6in long.

Ah yes of course! Thanks Wally

Neil the official designation is Car, Saloon, Grade 5, 4x2, Morris Mini. Vehicle/Asset Code 1135-0640 defines the vehicle type exactly. I don't have any details of the FVE 22A/130 Contract, I only have details of the contracts up to Sept 1974. These were WV 225, WV 4054, WV 7866, WV 9530 all of these had several Warrants. The last one WV 9530 did specify Warrant Nos BL(AM) 570, 644, 879. I don't know if (AM) relates to Air Ministry Contracts, in which case the RAF Ref No 16A/2539 & 16A/2817 applies. Are there any markings that might identify the ERM (Equipment Registration Mark) ie military registration which would be 2 digits + 2 letters + 2 digits. If there is no official plate showing that sometimes a cushion or something had some basic ID scribbled on.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373700322593

Well they are not listed in Clothing Regulations 1953 Pamphlet No.4 . Only these: Kilts, Highland (regimental pattern) Kilts, Saffron

There was no single volume "Repair Manual" as such, various aspects were covered in a series of incoherent EMERs covering data summary, technical description, field & unit repairs, installation instructions, modification instructions, general instruction, inspection standards. These were in the sequence EMER WHEELED VEHICLES Q 020 - Q 029 this covered all Series of Rover & sometimes included reprints of Land Rover's publications. Many EMERs were joint 1/2 Ton & 3/4 Ton publications, EMERs specific to 3/4 Ton were suffixed /14 Topics such as starter motors, ignition & charging were covered in a range of sections in EMER POWER. User Handbook & Servicing Schedules were covered in Army Coded publications. A large number of EMERs were republished in the AESP octad 2320-D-100 that were for all variants of 1/2 Ton & 3/4 Ton. User Handbook was now called Operating Information 2320-D-100-201 Servicing Schedule was now called Maintenance Schedule 2320-D-100-601 Rovers were the only equipment that benefited from an EMER to AESP reprint. Due to the lack of coherence Land Rover publications were often used for the non-specific to military tasks. I have a Series III Parts Catalogue converted to Army use being over stamped Army Code No.22705, the illustrations are much clearer than the military publication but of course only give the Rover part number, so the military publication would need to be consulted to extract the NSN.

Mike I know nothing about Jeeps, but as a general approach. I would: Check that you have a sensible voltage on the field winding of the dynamo. Is it significant & does it vary when running?. Check the voltage directly on the dynamo output or at least where it enters the regulator. Is it significant & does it vary when running?. If there is no output from the dynamo a very basic test is to run it as a motor. Take off the fan belt, detach any leads, then connect the field winding to the output winding then through a fuse say 10A to the battery terminal & the dynamo should revolve. If there is no movement despite cautiously turning the pulley a little, then disconnect the cables & with an ohmmeter you should read something like 10-20 ohms on the field winding. On the output (armature) winding you should read perhaps 100 ohms, try rotating it a bit as the reading may vary or be intermittent. If there is no reading you most likely have worn out carbon brushes or defective springs unable to push the brushes onto the commutator. (The resistance figures are just ballpark guesses)

At least it saved you the indignity of being broken down on the showground. There was one Land Rover broken down at the end of the show & luckily I had packed my box of tricks with me & got him started.

I saw Andy this weekend displaying his vehicles at the Overlord Show, so he is probably still recovering & getting organised after the event.

Just returned from my 476 mile round trip to the show. A very interesting & convivial weekend blessed with dry weather. Many thanks to the SOE Club members for giving so much of their time & effort to bring this all together. Looking forward to next year, although I imagine that is only 9 months away? Very shrewd idea to have had this secondary fallback date.

The one on the left with Lucar blades is NOS £35 The one on the right is a take-off £25 Both have provision for inserting a barrel lock, but the knob is free to turn anyway. Collect only at Overlord Show

These are either NOS or cleaned up take-offs, four lugs still intact £15 each. Two red NOS boxed £25 each Various NOS bulb sockets & mounting rings at various prices Strictly collect only from S.Wales or I can take to Overlord Show this weekend.

In good condition with nice clean connectors. £100 Collect only from Overlord Show this weekend. (For those who can't attend there is one on Ebay for £180)

It's easily done, I am dyslexic & my 9s & 6s get interchanged easily, so I had to think hard about this one. I think giving the item an ERM (Equipment Registration Mark) is a way of tracking & keeping tabs on an RAF "Asset" I think it had been an Army Asset it would have had something in the **BT** series that contains all sorts of interesting things.

The BV element supply (24V DC) is fed to pins A & B but it must be controlled by the internal thermostat on pins C & D. The thermostat is controlled by a DC relay which is part of the vehicle installation that switches the supply to the BV..

Actually it is 35 AY 86, not that it helps as it doesn't appear on MERLIN. There is a box that they spot before they get to the aircraft, although the NSN is partially obscured the NSC 1410 is for a guided missile.

This might help but I think this refers to Mk 1, there were slightly different EMERs for Mk 2.

Welcome LL, any in-service pictures of vehicles are always appreciated on here.

Yes it was LHD as well. Search my posts on here as the BV has cropped up before & I've posted bits of EMER but can't remember whether that was for Mk 1 or Mk 2.

80 KH 21 was a DROPS 15 Tonne EMER MISCELLANEOUS & ENGINEERING: D 322/1 Cooking & Boiling Vessel, No 1, Mk 2. Technical Description & Repairs. D 329/1 Cooking & Boiling Vessel, No 1, Mk 2. Misc.Instrs

Fraser my first Lightweight was 24v that had been converted by a dealer to 12v. (I now regret not having had a proper 24v vehicle left intact but this was 45 years ago & there was no information available to the public, hence my articles) Anyway it retained the screened ignition system albeit running from 12v. I used to do a fair bit of mildly adventurous green laning & never had any ignition problems. With the prospect of having to fork out for some new screened plugs, I replaced the whole ignition system with a standard 12v set up. Went green-laning & found that I kept conking out passing over deeper puddles. The alternator fan was spraying water over the HT leads, distributor & plugs. So I bought some new screened plugs & re-installed the screened systems. Thereafter had no more ignition failures when green-laning.

Fraser it is easy. I have fitted a couple of their 24v modules to Rolls Royce 'B' Series engines with no problems. These engines run with a 12v coil & ballast (dropper) resistors in a similar way to a Land Rover albeit at 10v. A 24v module just needs a steady 24v supply to power it, but it doesn't care whether distributor voltage it is switching is 24v, 12v or 10v. It is performing a similar task to a relay that needs to be energised but can switch whatever voltage is required. There is no point in trying to eliminate the ballast resistors by providing a separate regulator. Apart from the fact that 24v to 10v regulators are not a easy items to find, those that do try to do this miss the whole point of the design of the primary circuit. A 10v coil has not been chosen because Lucas or Land Rover were incapable of designing a 24v coil. The purpose of having a coil in series with resistance is that it reduces the Time Constant of the circuit . The Time Constant in seconds = Inductance of primary winding in Henries divided by the Total Resistance (coil res + ballast res) So the greater the resistance then the lower the Time Constant ie the time for the coil to build up & discharge its magnetism this contributes to a more abrupt change than would be achieved with a 24v coil. The rapidity in change results in a higher HT output, which was considered helpful to offset the damping effect due to the capacitance of the screened HT cables. I would try to avoid significant alteration of the original system as that loss of originality will have a serious effect on the value of your vehicle when at some stage you come to sell it. Generally people find 24v systems scary enough but a system that has been modified can be a turn off, which I can understand as I have seen some quite alarming changes done to 24v systems.

Yes & Yes The Vehicle Code comprised the first part which was the Establishment Code that defined the purpose & role of the equipment. The second part defined the maker & sometimes a particular model or mark. 2855-0711 Pressed Steel Company 2855-0747 Rootes Pressings Ltd There was no Sankey code associated with Establishment Code 2855 for a NT 3/4 Ton I'm afraid. In fact Sankey was only one of about 30 manufacturers of trailers of 1 Ton or less in the 1950s-60s. Yet they all get called Sankeys!

It is the Reliability Class based the age of the equipment & is not related to the Establishment Code which is function related. Class 1 for first 60% of planned live Class 2 for next 40% of planned life Class 3 over planned life Planned Life would be laid down in EMPS or EMPL (Equipment Management Policy Statement/Letter)