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Mike Maddams

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  1. Indeed I have found the cylinder position to the the issue, after winding it out I’ve not had one single issue and the braking is still effective. thanks for the advice on debris in the can, I have been as careful as possible to check the inside and it seems ok. I am however always looking for even cleaner Jerry cans. cheers, Mike
  2. Hey chaps, so I took her for a good drive to a neighbouring village this evening and all was good with the brakes. No binding that I could tell and I’m so pleased. I’m not saying I’m out of the woods with this one as I’m sure there will be something I have to deal with but as a runner to the local pub, she’s a goodun! I’ll chuck some fuel in the Jerry can and go for a longer drive as soon as I can and then we’ll really know if the issue has been resolved. Until then, thank you all for the support and I couldn’t have done it with you all. kindest regards, Mike
  3. Hi all, sorry for the delay in updating you. So I took her for a short drive and predictably the brakes bound up so I immediately jacked her up and cracked a bleed nipple and all four wheel simultaneously freed up! So I checked the lines (all of which are new) for sharp bends and fluid none. I can’t find any one way valves either. however the master cylinder push rod was set very far in so I undid the locking nut and wound it back out about an inch which seems to have made a big difference. I wonder if the piston wasn’t moving back enough to allow fluid to return as fast as it gets sent down the outlets? I only had a very short window to carry out a test drive so couldn’t really get a true representation but I’ll go for another tomorrow and hopefully she rolls freely. thank you all so much for the advice so far! cheers, Mike
  4. Hi all, I’ve checked the master cylinder and it’s all clean and not overfilled. The breather hole is clear and the fluid return hole is clear. The munga is cold and the brake pedal moves a good three inches with increasing pressure, when released I can see a little spurt of fluid as it returns rapidly to the master cylinder reservoir. So I can only presume all is well in this department. I will carry out Toby’s last suggestion about cracking each brake end hose when brakes depressed so see if it releases. After that I can only think it’s a case of taking a tiny bit off of each pad to gain the desired clearance from the drum and then re set to grab at a decent pedal position. Please keep the suggestions coming. Many thanks, Mike
  5. Thanks guys, I will attempt these fixes tomorrow and report back. I’ve had a few people recommend that I sand off a tiny bit off each pad as when I put the drums back on there is always a slight abrasive sound. Baring in mind that they are wound in to their minimum setting. When cold it’s not enough friction to restrict movement by hand by any means, but I’m guessing when it gets hot it’s all expanding to cause the binding? Can this sort of light friction cause this?? I am liking the idea of the fluid not returning to the master effectively because when the brakes start binding up, I notice the pedal won’t depress very far at all. Does this symptom make sense to you guys? cheers, Mike
  6. Hi all, I’ve recently purchased a lovely Munga 8 which has undergone a full but economical restoration over the last decade or so. Overhauled engine running sweet and new brakes all round. After about 10 minutes of driving the brakes are getting so hot that they are binding to the point where I can’t really drive. I’ve taken the drums off and the pads, pistons, hoses etc are all brand new. I’ve backed off the pads to the minimum setting yet they still bind after a few minutes of driving. When cold, you can spin the wheel freely but when hot they are impossible to turn by hand. has anyone had this issue with their MV and what was your fix? many thanks, Mike
  7. That’s what I’m thinking too. It would be very cool to see a colour photograph somewhere of the RAF model.
  8. Thanks blue cloud, I’d like to order a copy of your book soon. Where can I purchase one? Have you any plans to translate it into English? the RAF police Munga in the picture seems to be lighter in colour than the military police model. Do you know if they were RAF blue or green?
  9. Very interesting pictures here, does anyone know what colour the RAF Munga’s we’re painted? We’re they still in green or did the RAF paint them blue and yellow? Any colour pictures would be amazing! many thanks, Mike
  10. This is great thank you! Where abouts are you based? Would love to have a look and chat about how the engine and vehicle operate.
  11. Fantastic! Any chance you have a pic of the engine in the bay? Just so I can see which model Nissan it may have come from? I know you said it was possibly a Micra, which is my hope.
  12. No I haven’t but I’ve just bought a copy, I’m loving this forum!
  13. Ps did your Munga have the Nissan gearbox as well? Do you have any photos of the engine in situ?
  14. That’s very interesting because I’d only guessed that the Micra engine might fit only on size. Regrettably I’m doing this all on a shoestring so the idea of buying a MOT failed Micra on FB marketplace as a donor for £150 very much appeals to me. Thanks so much guys for this advice. Anyone else have some suggestions? cheers, Mike
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