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1940 Triumph 3SW Restoration


flyingfleasteve

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They had the long grips like an Ariel W/NG. That is a 6" grip on the throttle and a 7" grip on the clutch side. So far I have the 7" clutch side grips on my 3SW (rubber) and 3HW (canvas) but haven't found the 7" twist grips yet, except for the one on my W/NG.

Ariel and Triumph had a lot of similarities. Ron

stand 1b.JPG

WING 125.JPG

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Thanks Ron, I seam to remember the throttle barrel being a longer type, funnily enough the one I have soured for this bike is very long hence my asking, I didn’t know if it would need cutting down.

After inspecting the clutch components further it appears that I a missing parts 79, as shown on the age below. 

F523DE52-2CC1-4F41-81BD-D74B781B42FB.jpeg

Edited by flyingfleasteve
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Lucky find with the twist grip. For memory the whole thing should be over 7" long. You can buy the grips from Jeff the rubber man. Mention my name jeffalanhunter@aol.com

#79 is the race that should be pressed into your chainwheel. The rollers don't sit in a groove, they sit up against the rim of the top hat part 81 and place them all round with the use of grease, before carfefully putting 81 inside 79 so that none tip.

The rollers are cheap as chips but it's important to fit the correct ones. They are 'NOT' as often advertised 1/4 x 1/4 but are in fact about 12 thou shorter on the length........Length is not everything!!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SET-OF-20-CLUTCH-CENTRE-ROLLERS-PRE-UNIT-AND-UNIT-TWINS-57-0394-BSA-A10/352583133774?epid=6004493140&hash=item521797aa4e:g:zZAAAOSw9EJZto8l:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

 

Ron

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The modern friction plates (superseding cork) are Surflex plates # 57-1362 I think. Only three required. I fitted an extra steel plate under the clutch cover on my 5SW as I was trying to ellimimate clutch slip whilst kicking through compression. In the end it was too much oil in the chaincase. The books says 3/4 pint, which I think might be errononious. Other Triumph guys I speak to only put enough for the chain to touch, more like 1/3rd pint. I've used ATF on recomendation.  Ron

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Well I don't think Jeff would change his email address as it's his only usual form of contact. But I've sent him a test mail which hasn't bounced yet.

Did you copy it correctly? Best to copy and paste ...   jeffalanhunter@aol.com

 

Ron

 

 

 

Edited by Ron
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On a separate not I checked the throttle/twist grip complete length and it’s indeed approximately 7” long.

wheels have today gone off for blasting ready for painting this weekend fingers crossed.....let hope the rain holds off. 

All missing clutch items have now been ordered so I am hoping a good weekends work will really start to bring it all together, well that’s what I am telling myself!

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I've never known how you can test a regulator as a seperate item. I always start by making sure that the dynamo 'motors' on the bench. Then if I don't get an obvious reading at the ameter when the engine is running. Or the headlamp doesn't get brighter when I rev the engine (in case the ammeter is fualty)  I test the dynamo is working ok, by the light bulb method. 

If the dynamo is working but not charging the battery, it can only be the regulator. At this point I junk the innards and fit a solid state DVR2.  Ron

Edited by Ron
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