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Hi

 

I'm relatively new to the forum so don't know a great deal of people , I live in North Yorkshire , my small collection of vehicles consist of 42 Willys, MBT Trailer, Mk1 Welbike , and a folding Para Bicycle ,and now a 44 bedford MW under restoration .Dave

 

The MW is unknown territory for me .I would be very grateful if someone could answer a number of questions so I get it right .

 

On my Jeep I have the 'M' prefix number .Why has the MW a 'Z' number and is it possable to find the correct number that was issued? .I've noticed on photo's that some have the number on the door and others on the bonnet , also some with star's others without , were Div markings put on the rear tailboard as again I've seen them with and without.

 

The vehicle I have found doesn't have the rear lights , has anyone got a picture of them so I can look out for correct lights , temporarily I'm going to fit the round Landrover stop/tail lamps .

 

I would be very grateful if someone could aim me in the right direction .1390473_627604003969859_1489716302_n.jpg

1509160_635842786479314_231194727_n.jpg

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Hi

 

I'm relatively new to the forum so don't know a great deal of people , I live in North Yorkshire , my small collection of vehicles consist of 42 Willys, MBT Trailer, Mk1 Welbike , and a folding Para Bicycle ,and now a 44 bedford MW under restoration .Dave

 

The MW is unknown territory for me .I would be very grateful if someone could answer a number of questions so I get it right .

 

On my Jeep I have the 'M' prefix number .Why has the MW a 'Z' number and is it possable to find the correct number that was issued? .I've noticed on photo's that some have the number on the door and others on the bonnet , also some with star's others without , were Div markings put on the rear tailboard as again I've seen them with and without.

 

The vehicle I have found doesn't have the rear lights , has anyone got a picture of them so I can look out for correct lights , temporarily I'm going to fit the round Landrover stop/tail lamps .

 

I would be very grateful if someone could aim me in the right direction .[ATTACH=CONFIG]84920[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

You have a smashing collection, there will be many knowledgeable people answering you questions soon I am sure, love the MW, I had on a while back and they are smashing vehicles.:-)

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You have a smashing collection, there will be many knowledgeable people answering you questions soon I am sure, love the MW, I had on a while back and they are smashing vehicles.:-)

 

Thanks :), I've been after one for a long time but they seem to be like "hens teeth" :) , and when they have come up I've been too slow off the mark . The engine runs nice but the rear core plug and head gasket are weeping (not a big job)..thankfully.

 

It has 3 (look new) correct tyres? and the odd one on the front plus the spare is odd too.I did a bit of internet searching and found http://www.totectyres.co.uk/military.aspx , rang them and they expect delivery early in new year , they are the same pattern as the Dunlop Tracker which matches the 3 on the MW at around £135 each delivered ,which I thought was a good price ?

 

Dave

Edited by Davey089

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DAVEY the z letter denotes a truck under one ton L denotes lorry H tractor and so on has your MW got a rebuild plate on the nearside chassis rail if so on it should be a series of numbers and letters such as xx yp xx if so it may be possible to find its wartime cenus number where do you live in north Yorkshire

 

 

REGARDS WALLY

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Hi Wally

 

I'll have a clean around and see if I can find one , is the plate located towards the front ? I live nr Leeming Bar

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DAVEY the plate if there is generally between the front wheel and the petrol tank its about 3x4 inches

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Hello davey,

 

There are quite a few mw's being restored in yorkshire. It looks a fairly complete truck you have. Have you found the chassis number?

 

The Z number should be on the doors, i think it was mainly the aeroscreen MW's that had it on the bonnet. It would have been on the back of the rear body below the tailboard, the best chance you have of finding the original z number is to find it on the truck, so be carefull removing the old paint. If your very lucky the RLC museum may have the card for your truck and the z number and contract number will be there, i think it costs £25 to do a search, if you look up the rlc museum on google you will find the details there.

The contarct number was generaly on a small plate on the body, and on a small plate on top of the dash, do you have any original plates for it?

To change the core plugs you need to take the engine out, as there is a core plug on the back of the engine, and if the others are weeping that one needs doing to.

The rear lights shoulf be rubbolites No 5 and 5a one brake light and one rear light, like this,

396.jpg

 

 

Best wishes

 

John

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Thanks for that John very helpful , I noticed on the dash at the top there are 2 rivets but no plate ? I'll get in touch with RLC and fingers crossed might be able to dig it up . The rear lights ,now I know what to keep a look out for:). Found the Chassis number ok.

 

The truck is in pretty good nick , more cosmetic work than anything else .I was told that the chassis brakes etc had all been done recently but I'll still go through it . There are small bits of the body which need to be repaired / fabricated. Bits that are missing which are obvious ,the bracket that holds the bonnet in place at the back, horn push,rear lights, brackets that hold the spade and pick axe, tow bar pin , and if I can find a Lucas switch panel I will replace that as the one in the dash is a bit ropey , I will no doubt come across more bits that I will need when I get stuck into it properly.

 

Appreciate all the input very helpful .

 

Dave

Edited by Davey089

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Hi Davey,

 

Welcome to the Bedford MW Owners Club....:0)

Its a lovely wee truck you have bought.

I have recendly collected a towin pin from John Moter...he might have some more in stock and he also might have some dash parts you are looking for..

 

Cheers,

Louis

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Hi Davey,

 

Welcome to the Bedford MW Owners Club....:0)

Its a lovely wee truck you have bought.

I have recendly collected a towin pin from John Moter...he might have some more in stock and he also might have some dash parts you are looking for..

 

Cheers,

Louis

 

Thanks Louis :) , I'll give him a call on Monday , fingers crossed.

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Davey

 

Nice to see another MW in the local area

 

Andy

 

Thanks Andy , where about's are you based ?

 

Dave

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Thanks Louis :) , I'll give him a call on Monday , fingers crossed.

 

 

Your welcome Davey,

 

Good luck...they are verry nice people.

 

Cheers,

Louis

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Thanks Andy , where about's are you based ?

 

Dave

 

Dave

 

PM sent

 

Andy

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Welcome along to the wonderfull world of MW owning, its a slippery slope you know :nut:

 

Thanks , looking forward to it .............I think :-D , I'll let you know 6 months down the road :-)

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Well its now under way :)engine out .I'm going to get the head and block skimmed the head gasket was starting to de-laminate few rough edges around the waterway's , bores are good though they just want glaze busting . Tried to drain the oil nothing came out , it was like treacle sat in the sump:wow: , can't have had an oil change since I don't know when.

The clutch plate has chunks out of it so new clutch and release bearing ,the pressure plate seems to ok .

 

A few more question I have the engine is black .Did these change colour out of the factory late war from the Turquoise Green to black ? the only thing Turquoise is the Dynamo .

Is there a colour code for the engine paint if I need to re paint it Turquoise and who is the best supplier for the paint .

Is there anything specific to look out for when rebuilding the engine , problems etc .

 

Again thanks for any help its much appreciated

 

Dave

IMG_0409.JPG

IMG_0407.jpg

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Hello Davey,

 

The engine should be black, the blue/green colour is a post war thing. I used black smooth hammerite on my engine.

 

While you have your head off, it's worth checking the manifold face for distortion or pitting, and the manifold face on the cylinder head, it'll probably be worth having these skimmed at this stage save you problems with the manifold later. Also change the gasket between the two manifolds.

 

John

Edited by rippo

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Might pay to check/replace all the core plugs inc the rear one hidden by the bell housing also check for wear to clutch fork and ball as it took me a while to figure out why I had too much play after replacing the clutch plate also pull the oil filter out and clean it, if its anything like mine it hadn't been looked at in years and was fairly clogged with gunge.

check also your advance and retard vacuum's working ok and also check all's well with the dizzy.

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Hello Davey,

 

The engine should be black, the blue/green colour is a post war thing. I used black smooth hammerite on my engine.

 

While you have your head off, it's worth checking the manifold face for distortion or pitting, and the manifold face on the cylinder head, it'll probably be worth having these skimmed at this stage save you problems with the manifold later. Also change the gasket between the two manifolds.

 

John

 

Happy about that , I was starting to wonder if it was a replacement engine (engine No MW 57821) with it being black . We contemplated getting the manifold skimmed , so I'll get that done along with the block .

 

Thanks for your help

 

Dave

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Might pay to check/replace all the core plugs inc the rear one hidden by the bell housing also check for wear to clutch fork and ball as it took me a while to figure out why I had too much play after replacing the clutch plate also pull the oil filter out and clean it, if its anything like mine it hadn't been looked at in years and was fairly clogged with gunge.

check also your advance and retard vacuum's working ok and also check all's well with the dizzy.

 

Two core plugs had been replaced in the side but one is weeping , the one at the front also has been replaced , but the one behind the bell housing which was leaking badly had been left (I wonder why?):) , so I'll replace them all .I'll just replace the fork then its done . I don't think this one has had anything done to it for a good while ,the oil in the sump was like treacle full of crud , so no doubt the oil filter will be blocked , so might be better to replace it ?

 

Thanks again its appreciated

 

Dave

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My oil filter looked horrid but after a good clean in the parts washer it was ok I was lucky the gauze was intact, I better point out this is the long round gauze one located in the block not the external one fitted to the manifold John and Chris Morter supply a modern external filter that's looks the same as the original but takes a modern screw in type filter that can be replaced easily.

 

Might pay to have a look at the petrol pump too as the old diaphram suffer from this new fuel.

 

Have a Happy new year working on you truck :-D

 

 

RR.

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My oil filter looked horrid but after a good clean in the parts washer it was ok I was lucky the gauze was intact, I better point out this is the long round gauze one located in the block not the external one fitted to the manifold John and Chris Morter supply a modern external filter that's looks the same as the original but takes a modern screw in type filter that can be replaced easily.

 

Might pay to have a look at the petrol pump too as the old diaphram suffer from this new fuel.

 

Have a Happy new year working on you truck :-D

 

 

RR.

 

I'll check those out , sounds a good idea to replace the external oil filter with a modern version ,be alot easier and cleaner to maintain , good idea . I'll check that diaphragm out too or replace it anyway to save any problems later .

 

Thanks

 

Dave

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I rang Chris this morning and ordered up all the bits for the clutch etc. I'm going to go with the "modern" oil filter I think it will be better in the long run (better filtration )? .I'll re replace all the core plugs and swop the one behind the water pump with the correct brass one as this one has had a steel one put in . The others that have been done at some point I'm not happy with ,one is weeping so all out new in :-).

 

Engine goes Monday for the block , head and manifold skimming and the bores glaze busting .

 

Dave

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