Lightweight exhaust

When I had one I bought a complete new SWB system and it fitted no problem

Thanks for that , I have had a few people say it is but then a mate said he thought it was different ( some mate lol )

It is std. 88" short journeys - frequent £ bills for box/ tail-pipe but not too expensive, DIY a few simple mods to make changing quicker. Flange stub pipe & tail-pipe welds will go long before a good silecer box , you can gas weld sleeve reinforce.

I have tried a few Stainless box / tailpipe - never found a good one that matches a OEM spec. MS box.

At times I have found that "genuine" left-hooker silencer boxes are the cheapest of all ,, just that you discharge on the pavement & in shop doors. It seems they had large gaps of years between revision of prices OK if you do have a left-hooker kept original.

Depending on your motoring a int. pipe will outlast the silencer box , a front pipe will outlast the Int. pipe.

Invest in stainless steel front pipe + Int. pipe.

Only use a mild steel std. box. Genuine , Bosal , Klarius - all perform about the same , Walker were nasty but now use a aluminized weld.

All the small thingies - rear hanger brackets - Bosal did a kit in front of catalogue , IIRC now expensive , but IIRC never contained the steel bushes for the rubbers. Shopping list to franchise dealer for several of everything with a ££ 40% stock order discount.

Manifold studs - 3 qty. standard from Bosal cat. or off eBay

ALWAYS cover the manifold studs with BRASS manifold nuts , you can still get them 1" long - if you search well , or use a pair of double-depth BRASS nuts to cover the threads.

In fact at this position and the manifold studs to heads - the military Solihull factory spec. was a full stainless steel hex. nut. Civvy received a reasonable mild-steel nut , Unipart spares period changed it to a rubbish BZP nut , LRP changed it back to a Rover MS nut.

Front-pipe to Int. pipe + Int. to silencer box , you could use a SS bolt BUT never use a SS nut on a SS bolt , use MS hex or best is a double depth brass hex. nut. on SS or MS bolts. Depending on the box/tailpipe life-span - just a MS bolt & MS hex nut or std brass nut & torque to crunch.