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Humber Pig Prices ?


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Hi Guys,


This is my first post on the board,thinking of buying a "Pig" but have no idea to what sort of money they are currently going for, tried looking on E-bay and milweb but they havent got any so any guide to prices would be much appricated.


Also what MPG do they do , 10 - 11 ?


Thanks in advance



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Hello Mark , price will depend on condition of course , for a restoration job it will usually be whatever price scrap steel is at ! I would say for a nice one thats been looked after properly up to poss £4000 but with the current economic climate that would be top money in my opinion ! If you want to travel long distances I would advise buying an earlier spec one as they are a great deal lighter and fuel consumption would be much better and also they are less likely to break the rear axle ! I have an uparmoured one that I take to a couple of shows a year and driven very gently she is very thirsty but massive smiles per gallon ! Hope you get a good one and post some pics in the Pig gallery when you do ! Oh and have a word with Clive he knows them inside out ! Good luck Andy

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Mark welcome. I'm glad you are developing sensible tendencies. Text book fuel consumption on road for Mk 1 is 9mpg. I did manage that sometimes on the one I have just sold. But the one I am keeping is slightly under that & that is with electronic ignition. Heaven only knows what it is for a Mk 2 which has nearly 2 tons more armour. But once you have got used to the ball park figure, just accept it, relax & enjoy it.


I prefer Mk1 apart from all that weight, there is less room in the rear of a Mk2 & generally a Mk 1 will not have the barricade ram & servicing is a bit easier.


Yes there is that one on milweb, it has been around before & has some signs of non-originality. There is actually a Mk1 for sale in Dorset. It was made into a Mk2 & has been retro converted pretty well; you would have to look pretty closely to spot this. Wherever possible try to buy locally, because you have to think transportation costs or at least fuel bill if you decide to drive it home. I wouldn’t want to drive a great distance with a new vehicle like that if I had not owned one before.


Absolute essentials:

1. Good engine or one that runs & has reasonable compression on all cylinders

2. Good tyres - not bald, not split & not cracked. You cannot buy new original runflat tyres. So if the tyres are ropey, I think that wipes £1000 of the value.

3. The rear axle is not broken ie it can be driven with 4WD lever in 2WD position over a few hundred yards without funny noises.


Bodywork is not that important it can be fabricate & instruments, lights, dynamos, starter motors etc can be obtained.


Lovely as pigs are, don’t fall in love with a vehicle & allow it to distort your judgement. If sometime you want a pig indoctrination/what to look for I can show you mine – I am, near Salisbury. But I think the one for sale in Dorset would be a good one to go for rather than the ebay one.


Always worth asking about the servicing procedures of the owner as a lot of servicing forgotten about, which may have later consequences. Below is a list of things to look for I have on file as the question you posed has cropped up before.


Although to lubricate the points around each wheel station, it is best to get the wheel off. Depending on the Mk & mods there can be up to 9 lubrication points per wheel & appx 50 lubrication points in all.


There are no clutch cylinders to worry about, there is just a pedal that goes via a chain to the clutch! Now that I have electronic ignition it runs very sweet. Much easier to work on than a Land Rover. It doesn't have the awful Girling brake system; it is Lockhead & is much easier to bleed.


My advice on buying one is to have the engine run up, and then do a compression test. See what state the plugs are in if any are oiled up or rusty! The head gaskets tend to blow between 2 & 3 and 4 & 5. The gasket is narrowest there & the other problem you cannot get a 9/16 socket on the studs on the exhaust side of the head to torque it down properly. Of the 39 cyl head nuts the row along the exhaust edge have to be adjusted by a box spanner & a 6in tommy bar. Which is not very scientific, but that’s what Rolls Royce & Army advice.


Check the engine oil level is correct. If low - not being serviced. Or high does it look watery? or is it thin & smell of petrol? As it was intended to wade if the fuel pump diaphragm fails fuel is dispensed into the sump. I once had this & the explosion blew the dip stick 30ft into the air.


Check the exhaust manifolds are not cracked or gaskets blowing. Check the exhaust down pipe is ok replacements are now extinct it is not easy to make it goes close to shocker & has to have an asbestos heat shield. Build into the value if there are good tyres, they are difficult to get hold of. Check that it moves in 2WD from the rear axles. As broken shafts & tracta joints were a problem. Sometimes pigs are sold with a broken rear axle but is put into "4WD" but is only then running on the front axle!


Ask the owner to describe how it has been serviced, including the injection of OIL into the tracta joints as described in the handbook. Very commonly a lot of servicing is not carried out & the Pig abused. When lubrication is done it often has grease injected into all the lubrication nipples. Not all are grease nipples some are oil nipples. If you don't get sense from this scrutiny. Does not bode well for past care of vehicle.


One of those two MV mags advised to check that there are no oil leaks. I disagree, if there aren't some oil dripping you may find that there is no oil left inside


I would undo the filler bolts on each diff & feel then that there is some oil in. If not its not being serviced or if it is then there are problems. Check that the transfer box level is ok & that it has not flowed into the rear diff. Check the oil doesn't have a silvery appearance ie as in mangled gear wheel. Check the gearbox level, this should NOT have gear oil it should be SAE30 engine oil.


Look for evidence of off roading; check the torsion bars are not corroded. There are painted with rubber paint. But this will flake off in places & particularly if it has been off roaded there may still be mud/crud eating into the torsion bar with dangerous & expensive consequences.


Look inside & under the fuel tanks for signs of crud, rust & leakage. Make sure that if it has old petrol in it (6 months or more) that you pump it through & discard it. I had an exhaust valve tappet shatter from old fuel which caused a lot of work to replace & remove head etc.


Forgot to say about prices. For reasons I don't understand they are valued below what I think they deserve to fetch. But I think £3k is pretty much top whack, in the US the rarity value increases the price & someone over there was asking over £10k for one.

Edited by fv1609
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  • 2 weeks later...

I paid 2100 for my Mk1 just over a year ago, needed some brake master cylinder work, and some servicing/fettling, and it isnt 100% original, but it now goes quite well, and is reasonably reliable.

If it had been fully restored i wouldnt have anything to tinker with, and i wouldnt know the thing inside out!


I was reasonably lucky with mine, it was pretty much how it should of been mechanically, but if you are buying one, make sure you go with Clives advice, and dont let the rose tinted goggles take a hold of the decision process!

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hi mark. i had a bucket on my head when i bought mine, i should have got some rose tinted glasses, you have to remember thay are heavy on the fuel. and waights seem to vary. and parts very few , paid over the top. but glad i did, heres a few pics,

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