Surveyor Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 I sprayed the block when it arrived at the garage to be fitted, the paint then came off. Being a learner at this, any advice on how to clean and prepare the block. Comments made before said pint was poor quality, so sourced another supplier, another comment was the black paint was for the travel. The picture shows some of the paint coming off Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 (edited) It seems you had Sky mixed for rattle can - I doubt if the paint is suitable. You need thorough degrease prior to paint, the way paint is leaving the alloy rocker cover - seems like oil contamination. How sound is the paint on the CI block ? Awkward to strip & paint with engine in situ. Takes time but I have cleaned off crud and painted by hand (using a school type round- white bristle artists brush - abt. 10mm dia.). I would brush some standard cellulose thinners on the paint & see if it is easy to lift , if it is then continue to remove. What you need is a can of self-priming "Machinery Enamel" (such as Tractol 329 single-pack) that is oil resistant when through dry (keep diesel off for 1 month). Engines out - I use a small stray gun - bit bigger than a air-brush , thinned with synthetic or a bit of cellulose. Edited July 28, 2019 by ruxy spelin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surveyor Posted July 29, 2019 Author Share Posted July 29, 2019 Many thanks, the main block is original, I don't have the skills to take the engine out so trying to do it in position, yes used a rattle can but now have sourced a better paint supplier, The oil contamination may be from when the checked to rockers after the new head was put on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted July 29, 2019 Share Posted July 29, 2019 There are a few subset of the - synthetic alkyd-type resin paint (that requires xylene). Factory finished is always stoved, these pushed out cellulose finishes , now most synthetics are pushed out by aqua industrial finishes. Without stoving they take at least 1 month to through dry. A LR engine hardly get hot enough to warrant a higher grade engine laquer. With the right amount of xylene thinners you can get a long working time that levels out brush marks and at same time get a good wet/dry film thickness. Even the right stuff in a rattle can will be very thin dft and that can cause lift. If you try a few coats then they can just react against each other and that results in failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surveyor Posted July 30, 2019 Author Share Posted July 30, 2019 Many thanks again all information useful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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