justinb Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 morning all . while changing a centre bevel box , I've discovered the brake disc on that wheel station is mullered ! I have two more wheel stations that are new but they are fixed o/s rear so not set up for steering and the brake caliper is in the wrong place . does anyone know if its possible to swap the around ? cheers justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowfat Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 (edited) Pretty sure you can remove the locking plates and use them else where.The wheel studs are handed though Edited July 1, 2017 by lowfat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 Pretty sure you can remove the locking plates and use them else where.The wheel studs are handed though it looks possible to me as well . I've got to remove some very stuck pins first in the wishbones . I think i'm going to have to fabricate something hydraulic to get them out . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101 Ron Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 The pin in wishbones come out OK with the use of a slide hammer and a home made UNF bolt to slide hammer adaptor. Two different size bolt to slide hammer adaptors are needed as different pins have different UNF threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101 Ron Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 (edited) it looks possible to me as well .I've got to remove some very stuck pins first in the wishbones . I think i'm going to have to fabricate something hydraulic to get them out . stalwart hub lifter bracket and suspension pin puller adaptors for slide hammer by john smith, on Flickr stalwart suspension pin removal by john smith, on Flickr stalwart hub removal support frame by john smith, on Flickr stalwart suspension wedges by john smith, on Flickr https://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-and-variations/118657-ultimate-fc-52.html Edited July 3, 2017 by 101 Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowfat Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Well I use 3 methods to get the pins out. first I got a piece of aluminium Bar about an inch in diameter and about 18 inches long . It needs to be just smaller than the pin to act as drift when used with a sledge hammer. Yes Sledge hammer. Second is a slide hammer with the different sized unf screws to fit in the pins. Third is a large threaded rod and pipe which the unf screws fit into and a large nut to tighten which helps pull the pin out. I will see if I can find them to take pictures. My best time of taking a wheel station off is about 45 minutes. I took weeks to develop the tools / technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMS Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 I'm working on a stalwart at the moment and the lower wishbone pin had to be cut into 3 to remove the wheel station! i stripped the hub and split the king pin yoke to do it, not a pretty site! it took 20 tonnes of pressing and heat to get the pin out out of king pin yoke!!! was only changing a split gaiter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 I'm working on a stalwart at the moment and the lower wishbone pin had to be cut into 3 to remove the wheel station! i stripped the hub and split the king pin yoke to do it, not a pretty site! it took 20 tonnes of pressing and heat to get the pin out out of king pin yoke!!! was only changing a split gaiter! i'm hoping mine aren't that bad . I've started on my hydraulic thingy ,hopefully that'll do it . justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 well we got the wheel station out ,swapped the centre bevel box ,and now we've got the wheel station back in to the point where 5mm of the cork seal is left showing and it won't go any further ! the drive shafts seem to be in line and the little peg in the bevel box seems to align with the groove on the big brass swivel housing but it wont go any further ,any ideas? justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 well we got the wheel station out ,swapped the centre bevel box ,and now we've got the wheel station back in to the point where 5mm of the cork seal is left showing and it won't go any further !the drive shafts seem to be in line and the little peg in the bevel box seems to align with the groove on the big brass swivel housing but it wont go any further ,any ideas? justin Hi Justin, The Tracta joint has rolled around and stopping you installing the inner Tracta housing. Pull it out again, remove both parts of Tracta joint, get a strip of heavy paper and roll it around each joint half where it enters the Tracta shaft or fork. If it stiffens up the joint this is good, if still slack use thicker paper or double it over. Line the joints up prior to refitting the inner housing so as not to move the joints out of line. Don't worry about the paper, it will disintegrate once the vehicle moves, this is an old trick. regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowfat Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 As above the tracta joint has probably moved I used Vaseline to stiffen it up. I also found that the "face" of the bevel gear box had gone elliptical due to the beating it had taken over the years. So that the wheel station cup wouldn't seat fully home and the cork was showing as in your case. I took the end of the wheelstation and checked it would slide in easy first. I had to dress the damage out with a die grinder and flap wheel. Once the cup fitted into the bevel gear box I reassembled the wheelstation,greased up the tracta joint and it slid together a charm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101 Ron Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 I don't muck around anymore with the lining up of tracta joints and them moving out of alignment while fitting. I epoxy glue them lightly. I don't know what true secret was or how they did hundred of these things quickly on the Alvis production line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 I don't muck around anymore with the lining up of tracta joints and them moving out of alignment while fitting.I epoxy glue them lightly. I don't know what true secret was or how they did hundred of these things quickly on the Alvis production line. many thanks for everyones advice . in the end I used a small blob of super glue and the wheel station sailed in . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Next problem ! wheel station all swapped , converted to steering wheel station removed the epicyclic hub, removed the disc and swapped the plate that supports the caliper all good , built it all back up , all good . cant get the epicyclic hub back on ! it goes on easily until you can feel the gears just start to mesh then it stops dead . any ideas , REME tricks .? im quite convinced the stalwart was built by pixies using magic ! justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowfat Posted August 3, 2017 Share Posted August 3, 2017 they have to be "timed" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 they have to be "timed" Yes , Sussed it thanks . a friend said he thought they needed to be timed and eventually I found the marks , now back together cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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